Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1

    Polaris SLT750 Tuneup

    So I have had this jet ski since early 2000's. My question for you guys is it has never really had a tune up besides plugs and a fuel sender/ pump. Last yea it would run good for like 2 days of use then start acting up on the third day. Is there anything I can check out and or replace to make sure it is in solid condition for the season.

    Thanks


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Welcome

    A decade or more of use without heavy service is doing well. Time to go through it and bring things back up to specification.

    See my signature links for the common maintenance items.

    Pay special attention to the fuel system, everything from fuel tank cleaning to new fuel hoses and proper carburetor rebuilds. Also check the fuel tank venting check valves and the fuel filler for hairline cracks or poor sealing.

    On the ignition side it is common to trim the ends of the spark plug wires about 1/4 inch and screw the spark plug boots back on. This improves the electrical contact with the wire core.

    Check cylinder compression, pay attention to the differences between cylinders. A weak cylinder (compared to the others) means it may be time for a top end refresh.

    This would also be a good time to remove the jet pump and inspect. if there is any signs of bearing slop or gritty feeling/noise when turning the impeller by hand, rebuild the jet pump.

    The parts for all the above are not expensive. Done properly, you will end up with a reliable watercraft that should run for a bunch more years.

  3. #3
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Newman Lake, WA
    Posts
    2,389
    +1
    166
    Welcome to Green Hulk!

    Have the carbs ever been rebuilt on it? If not, that's a must. #1 killer of Polaris blue Fuji engines is fueling related issues (carbs, fuel pumps).

    Does it still have the original single outlet fuel pump? If so, highly advise upgrading to a round 35lph Mikuni triple outlet fuel pump and plumbing a separate line from the fuel pump to each carb. You can still leave the fuel return lines piggy-back'ed into one.

    Put in some new spark plugs: NGK BPR7ES

    By the third day of riding... were you getting lower on gas... towards bottom of tank? If so... could have some water in/near the bottom of the tank... that would lead to poor running, hard starting, etc. Might consider draining fuel tank.

    I'd also recommend pulling the jetpump and inspecting it for wear. Check impeller and wear ring. Check for smoothness in bearings spinning the impeller. Pull off tail cone and check for signs of water getting into the inner stator bearing area.

    Also... if your ski takes on water during use or sitting in the water. Might consider rebuilding your through-hull-seal carrier. It's inside the hull attached to the short piece of hose to the hull...the driveshaft goes through it. It keeps the water from getting past the driveshaft. It's a wear item and will eventually leak.

    That's a start.

    Cheers!

  4. #4
    Thanks for all the help I think it needs a carb rebuild for sure. What's the best place to get a kit from and is there a how to somewhere? How hard of a job is it too?

  5. #5
    Also what's the easiest way to drain the tank?

  6. #6
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Newman Lake, WA
    Posts
    2,389
    +1
    166
    John Zigler at Watcon has the best Mikuni rebuild kits... all the pieces you need including some you don't usually get. You can also get a 3 outlet fuel pump and spark plugs there too.

    Best "how to" carb rebuild... just posted today:
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=217669

    When I drain a fuel tank... I just use a hose and siphon it out into a bucket or jug. With the ski on the trailer... the bucket/jug as sit low enough to siphon.

    Cheers!

  7. #7
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Medina, Ohio, United States
    Posts
    4,988
    +1
    140
    If you plug the all the lines except return and Reserve/on, you can pressurize the tank with compressed air to drain it via the fuel sender as well. Light pressure, just enough to make the fuel flow... Obviously tank, sender, and filler must all seal for this method to work.....

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    If you plug the all the lines except return and Reserve/on, you can pressurize the tank with compressed air to drain it via the fuel sender as well. Light pressure, just enough to make the fuel flow... Obviously tank, sender, and filler must all seal for this method to work.....
    I have also used this method.

    Connect Reserve fitting on sender to drain hose into outside fuel container. I apply air pressure via the return hose fitting on the sender. Only a couple of PSI air pressure will be enough to move the fuel, you do not want to split the fuel tank apart! The fuel flow will not be super fast. Just be patient and add air as needed to maintain the flow.

    The last dregs in the fuel tank will not be extracted. For that you have to mop it out through the tank openings. Or remove the tank and pour it out.

    What you want when finished is a fuel tank that is clean inside and dry of all old gasoline.

    If the tank is removed you can add some degreaser and water. Shake it around, let it sit, shake some more. Drain, rinse several times with clean water. Let dry in the sun.

    If the fuel sender parts are crusty with deposits be sure to clean that too.

  9. #9
    Cool i think the first thing is gonna be drain the tank and do a once over. I really think there is water in the tank. I found someone local that will do a carb rebuild at $60 per carb plus part which really isnt to bad i dont think.

  10. #10
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Medina, Ohio, United States
    Posts
    4,988
    +1
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by jdereu View Post
    Cool i think the first thing is gonna be drain the tank and do a once over. I really think there is water in the tank. I found someone local that will do a carb rebuild at $60 per carb plus part which really isnt to bad i dont think.
    Where are you located?

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 94 Polaris SLT750 Steers to the right with UMI Steering
    By mkulczyckyj in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 05-30-2008, 11:57 AM
  2. '95 Polaris SLT750 MFD Gauge Not Working
    By cubsfan2516 in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 04-22-2008, 09:32 PM
  3. 94 Polaris slt750 Tripple Fuel Pump
    By mkulczyckyj in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-20-2008, 10:28 AM
  4. polaris slt750 turbo noises
    By mrvb1969 in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 04-01-2008, 10:41 PM
  5. Polaris SLT750 Impeller Noise w/Video
    By utahnewbie in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-04-2007, 08:47 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •