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  1. #1

    2002 Virage i troubles

    New to the forum. I have two skis...the 1200 is never a problem (carbs) but the 800 (fuel injected) is being a PITA. Starts...but does not idle long and shuts off. It will ride but needs constant throttle to idle. All seems fine, display working well, ran some injector cleaner, but still no joy. I am very familiar with the carb ski but this one...aaarrrggghh. Any pointers would be appreciated. This ski is used by the casual riders so it needs to be easy. The other ski is too fast and needs an experienced hand to ride so I need to get this one back in good order. I am a complete novice at fuel injection so be easy on me with the explanations. I am thinking it might be the throttle sensor?
    Thanks in advance
    Last edited by K447; 06-13-2014 at 10:22 PM.


  2. #2

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    do you get the red light flashing on the display? Quick thought is throttle position sensor, but could be many things. start with that, and the factory plugs BTW.

  3. #3
    No red light, and plugs are new NGK.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    What is the service history on the Virage i?
    What model year?

    Has the TPS sensor ever been changed? If the Throttle Position Sensor is going bad it can cause all sorts of weird symptoms.

    Try this test. Does not always work, but easy to do.
    Find the 3-pin connector for the TPS (somewhere around the rear end of the throttle bodies). Unplug the TPS. Now start the engine. Does it now idle properly, at a stable 1150 RPM? If yes, the TPS is likely bad.

    If the engine does not start with the TPS unplugged, then your EMM is one that requires the TPS be connected for starting. This does not prove the TPS is good or bad. TPS could still be bad.

  5. #5
    I disconnected the TPS. engine still would not idle. I do have the check engine light on with the wording "Check Engine" at the bottom of the display. I cleaned a few of the connections just to be sure but did not result in anything. I have owned this ski for its entire life. I did have it serviced early on but there is no one left to take it to. I took it to a dealer in Tenn. but all he said was that the fuel was old, clean the injectors. He said they idled it for 30 min but obviously that is not the case. So now on my own. These skis are pristine so no way am I going to give up. Any further suggestions are very welcome!

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ed3257 View Post
    No red light...
    Quote Originally Posted by ed3257 View Post
    ... I do have the check engine light on with the wording "Check Engine" at the bottom of the display.

    .... I have owned this ski for its entire life. I did have it serviced early on but there is no one left to take it to.

    I took it to a dealer in Tenn. but all he said was that the fuel was old, clean the injectors.

    ... These skis are pristine so no way am I going to give up...
    When did the Check Engine warning start appearing?

    Old fuel? Has the machine been sitting for a long time?

    30 minutes of idle is a really long time, normally the maximum recommended duration is two minutes with garden hose water feed, as the driveline seals are not cooled when the hull is not floating. The normal method is to first remove the jet pump and driveshaft before running the engine on land for longer than a couple of minutes.

  7. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    is it safe to assume that the throttle cable shows a little slack..and note if the tps screws are all tight . Pull the CPS ( front of block) and check for any significant metal chips..all simple stuff. Measure the CPS resistance

    the check engine light means that maybe readable code is available. see Polaris pages to determine how you connect an LED to the wire harness to get the blinking codes, and how they translate to something you might be able to use.

    Disclaimer:Nobody promised your Polaris would be well behaved and easy to diagnose issues with..sorta like my pals' first and second wives.

    Get hold of the service manual, vital for fuel injection service. Not very intimidating. A bunch of sensors feed a black box which handles mundane chores like ignition and firing the fuel injectors, providing data for the human via the console and other engine management like things.

    Bad news: In my experience a no-idle on an 800 meant a bad emm.
    Good News: Lots of new players in the EMM repair market, it's not going to be as large of a wallet stab as it was 3 or 4 years ago.
    Bad news: Get ready to bleed removing the emm from your ski
    Good news: The cuts won't be jagged, they bandage up just fine

    TIP:WEAR GLOVES. SHARP STUFF AHEAD
    Last edited by K447; 06-13-2014 at 10:29 PM.

  8. #8
    Thanks for the information Cap'n. I had a sinking feeling that the EMM might be involved. I will check the CPS and resistance. I did notice a wire that looks a little dark (as in crispy) leading into the reset section on top of the EMM. That just can't be good. The check engine light could have been on before and I just missed it. Yes, when they told me that they ran it for 30 mins I almost freaked out...My original dealer had told me to never run it more than a couple minutes. I am a bit puzzled about the EMM. Mine just sits on the top of the battery, feeding a couple large plugs. I sure hope we are talking about the same gadget. I downloaded a service manual but it is pretty brief. I will see if it has a Fuel injection section. You guys are top notch....

  9. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    the electric box has the reset button on it and that is not where the emm is. Should be up under the steering column. What color is the crispy wire ( if the insulation is brittle it may be a sign that that the electric box was grounded at one time.

    you need a 4mm wrench to take off the large connector, but we're not at that part just yet.

    you'll find a full page callout of the emm and what the expected reading are for all the sensors

    if the check engine light is still on, your next step(after checking the basics, like unplugging the tps, check the battery voltage at standing/started and 4-5krpm) is to try to read the codes

    follow the steps outlined in the Polaris pages.

    I got back into the biz after a 25 year break and had to learn all about this stuff real quick..the pages K447 put together were instrumental.

    It just requires a methodical complete attack and you'll narrow the culprit.

    I have a much faster diagnostic method now..I have a couple of known good emm's..I swap it in..if problem goes away I just pull the bad emm out and send it for repair.

    I did old school It for several years and solved quite a few problems that were not emm related( bad cps/tps/stator/rat chewed wiring, hack mechanics and the like)

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ed3257 View Post
    ... I did notice a wire that looks a little dark (as in crispy) leading into the reset section on top of the EMM. That just can't be good.

    The check engine light could have been on before and I just missed it.

    ... I am a bit puzzled about the EMM. Mine just sits on the top of the battery, feeding a couple large plugs. I sure hope we are talking about the same gadget. I downloaded a service manual but it is pretty brief. I will see if it has a Fuel injection section. You guys are top notch....
    Post a few clear photos if necessary so we can be sure we are all talking about the same things

    What model year is this Virage i?
    Last two digits on the HIN number plate on the rear deck.

    First lets get the crispy wire tested and repaired before venturing into other EMM related diagnostics. Depending on which wire it is, you may need to find the root cause before actually repairing the wire, so it doesn't happen again.

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