Thread: 2009 driveshaft?
06-12-2014, 02:56 PM #1
Ok - I get it...I should junk this shaft setup and spend the $400 for the new/old shaft setup. Well, I've spent enough so it is going back in this 130.
I have the '09 service manual but it details the clipped shaft procedures and no where does it show this NUT version. What I don't get is how the shaft can be removed/installed from the rear of the machine when it has the black ?damper? on it that is flared on the end and does not appear to fit through the carbon ring.
The nut was loosened and the hat/seal was pulled out, then the shaft was removed forward once the engine was out for this rebuild I am doing.
I'm wondering how it will go back together (with all new parts) once the engine is back in and the shaft has to through the carbon ring.
What am I missing here?
06-12-2014, 04:16 PM #2
Ok - I guess it does jam through there past the flare, but that's a 2-person job so as not to wreck the boot/carbon ring setup installed in the ski. What a crappy design. I'm sure there's other reasons they abandoned it but haven't really seen any explained here.
What are the other issues with this shaft design?
06-12-2014, 07:05 PM #3
The attached file is copied from my 2010 shop manual and use the same POS, crappy, failure prone drive shaft setup your ski uses. It explains how to remove and install that style of drive shaft.
You really need to get a 2011 or newer drive shaft configuration and ditch that one, it will give you nothing but problems.
2010 Drive Shaft RXT.pdf
06-16-2014, 11:16 AM #4
Thanks JPT! In what ways do they fail, and are the failures also common on lower HP machines like mine?
06-16-2014, 05:38 PM #5
They fail due to being made of carbon steel and not stainless steel, and have broken clean in half and the most common failure is the splines are weak at the impeller and strip out both the drive shaft and impeller.
Here is a screen shot right out of a 2011 Dealer Only Technical Update:
You need to replace that thing soon, because the damage that is caused when it lets go is expensive! Do a search on the site and you will find several guys that have had stripped splines which destroys the impeller and causes all kinds of internal engine damage. I know one guy that had 3 fail on him until they figured out what the problem was back in 2010.
"Pay me now or pay me later" comes to mind!
You don't want to get stranded on the water with this situation and have that sinking feeling………..
06-16-2014, 05:55 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
Holy crap. You mean my 2006 Wake 155 with 40 hours on it needs a new driveshaft and all new exhaust valves or it's just a ticking time bomb? WTF? I thought I got a good deal but after $2000 in driveshaft and head work I'm not so sure!
06-16-2014, 06:05 PM #7
This ONLY applies to 2009-2010 skis with the screw on floating ring and no other models!
As you were pops!
Any one with the standard drive shaft , floating ring and C-Clip can just move right along.
06-16-2014, 06:06 PM #8
2006 models have the old/new driveshaft that is not a problem.
06-16-2014, 06:27 PM #9
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
08-23-2015, 01:28 PM #10
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Adelaide S. Australia
Cheers jpt7779 for the above info on the shafts, that shines a fair bit of light on what I've been hunting for over the last couple months.
I've got one of these shafts, which sprung a huge leak at the PTO seal and nearly sank. during my quest for help on sorting it out, I have found this thing sea doo calls 2009 2010 pwc supplement has caused major confusion and seems not many know of the supplement issue. The link to a thread I started is here http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=238609 and what you've posted is exactly what I've been trying to find out.
sadly to to say I have even sent a couple emails off to Sea Doo asking about a updated shaft I was told to get, their reply ( call your local dealer) local dealer's response ( bring your ski in let us have a look we charge $150 per hour) Hence no one wants to tell you stuff all regarding this.
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