06-17-2014, 03:27 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
Please help, rxt dropped valve, advised appreciated, UK based guy,
hi, im steve from england, got a 2005 seadoo rxt 215, uprated supercharger and few other bits, love the ski but took it out the other day and it failed at WOT, got it home, water in all cylinders think that where it got towed back, couldnt get plug 1 (rear) out, so pulled head to find two smashed exhaust valves, (pissed as was told by seller solid valves had been fitted, removed the engine and luckily the cylinder is in good shape, no cracks just small light scores, ski has done 150 hours and i was wondering what you guys would check, refresh or replace when building back up, also interested in all the weak points, what parts people recomend and also if anybody has any items for sale that they wouldnt mind shipping? which solid vlaves should i go for, would most of you just replace one piston, or bore out and replace all 3? would you change cam shells, rods, rod bearings etc, also any good online sites for parts that would ship to the UK, im also quite good mechanically, if a rxt rebuild past a beginner engine builder, thanks for the replys in advance, steve
06-17-2014, 09:34 PM #2
Steve, welcome to the GH
sorry to here you have broken valves
they can cause rod damage or timing chain damage
the bigest upgrade that is not required with your damage is new valve springs and retainers, for more rpms
IMO if its still good reuse it, at 150hours the motor has lots of life left
the weak stock parts I would change is flywheel bolts and add the new SC oiler
rebuild SC if near 100 hours
06-18-2014, 07:55 AM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
i`am from the UK (south wales).... Had the same problem few months back dropped both exhaust valves clean into the head!! my ski had only done 17hrs cracked the cylinder and you can imagine wha it had done to the ally head.. ripped it all out and inspected further, sent it off to a specialist in essex repaired the block and head, checked the crank and bearings etc, the rods dont bend they twist but can be put back and trued, new piston and rings along with all the intake and exhaust valves (solid ones) replaced, seats cut to the valves while he was at it very happy with the work he done for me, i also fitted the upgraded flywheel bolts along with a full engine bolt kit, rebuilt supercharger whillst i had it all apart along with few other bits and pieces...... i would get parts from our friends over the pond much much cheaper than any of the dealers over here and a quicker service too believe it or not.. Ive workd on 2 and 4stroke engines over the last decade so was quite confident in carrying the work out myself, still endless nites reading the workshop manual along with other posts on here, this site is such a great help.
if you wanna chat further pm me and i`ll give u a call
06-21-2014, 09:49 PM #4
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Netherlands antilles / Bonaire
chris his way is the way to go.. pull apart..
clean, check, replace..
06-22-2014, 05:50 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
Hi took the engine apart, I've got slight marking in bore one, no cracks or nastiness which is great, don't think the marks will hone out so might have to go 0.5mm oversized, I want to build a reliable engine but without spending fortunes, gonna replace all crank,rod and balance shaft bearings, here are a few questions I'm hoping you guys can answer,
are standard rods capable of higher power incase I increase boost.
i need one rod as one is slightly bent, do I have to use oem or will a wsm one be just as good?
what pistons would you guy recomend and what ratio, bit confused on that front
which solid valves should I use and would you recommend a valve spring upgrade aswell.
do I have to use a oem gasket kit they seem expensive but is that for a reason?
i know to replace all head, rocker and flywheel bolts, will oem ones be good or should I go arp.
any other things you would change or check, it's on 150 hours but up until the other week was very very we'll cared for?
many thanks Steve ClarkeClarke
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