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  1. #1
    def's Avatar
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    1996 SLT 780 will not start, no spark

    I have a 96 slt780 i got in non-running condition.

    Got it to a "turning over, but no-spark" situation now.

    is this the right place to join in or should i open a new thread?

    plz forgive newbness
    def


  2. #2
    def's Avatar
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    thanks k447 - new thread it is

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    New thread

    What repairs were done previously?

    What diagnostics have you done regarding the no-spark problem?

  4. #4
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    long story short - bought when it failed on its previous owners children. he figured it was the CDI. I got a replacement CDI off of ebay, but put a battery (12.6v) to the system as is once the snow left, after fixing three obvious broken black wires. The system cranked over, but had no fuel in it so no start. MDF worked but looks faded at bottom of screen. couple hours later i pressed the start button with no result whatsoever. the MDF now dead. put battery on to charge (as the previous charge was suspect). battery charge was around 11.8v.
    next day after reliable charge battery reading just over 13v. put back in with no results no MFD. pulled Ebox and opened it - couple broken wires inside and a couple semi-stripped wires. Box seemed dry inside except for a fair amount of grease. The CDI had a hole burnt into it above the wires, and burnt areas on the clear resin on bottom of cdi. Could the "grease" be goo from the CDI? Put in my used CDI from ebay. Horrible ground connection from ebox posts and to engine. redid the grounds in ebox, and ran two 14gauge wires out from the ebox to the engine block.
    Engine now cranks but still has no spark.
    changed out plugs for same new - NKG BR8ES. Old plugs seemed ok - the two i have with me right now look old but decent - different gaps but could be the bag of garbage they have been in. no damage on the arc points - nice brown/grey color to them. the third one is with the ski but suspect i would have noticed any obvious signs to it seeing as i have been using it randomly for spark tests.
    Last edited by def; 06-17-2014 at 11:02 PM. Reason: forgotten vital info (cdi change) second forgotten info new plugs

  5. #5
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    Today i started ohm'ing the starter coils (seen lots from you guys about them all working or failing due to a single failed part). I have a couple readings i can put up right now, have to get any others tomorrow.
    across the start coils - black to black/white - reading starts .5, then rises to .6 or .7, and settles for a short time, then starts to fall - seen it go down as low as .2 ohm.
    through start coil - black to spark plug boot - 9.4, 8.4, 8.4. (i understand it should be 3.3 ohm but unsure if higher is better or not)

    ground connection between engine mount plate and battery seems to be pretty good. mine is attached under the engine near the back of the ebox, and the connection is tight.

    I also tried to jump the machine with a 12v deepcycle battery at full charge (not measured but been on the charger for last couple weeks and was able to jump my truck with no problem at all). Still no spark.

    for testing spark I have tried putting the plug to the cylinder head, and i also tried a small spark tester I made from a block of wood, some screws, wire, and alligator clips. not even the faintest spark noted on any of the tests.

    I havnt mentioned it yet, but this site is great! I have muddled through quite a bit with just reading. all the great reading appreciated.
    def

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    From the factory the electrical box has dielectric grease smeared onto the entire terminal board. This limits corrosion should any moisture get inside.

    The CDI with a hole is obviously dead. I presume you are using the replacement, correct?

    Typically when the thin Black wires inside or connected to the electrical box get fried it means the electrical box metal shell has touched the battery posts, usually because the plastic battery cover was missing. This often burns out the thin black wire in the cable that goes to the stator.

    Check the stator cable for burned wires.

    Make sure the battery polarity is correct. There is a 1/4 Amp fuse inside the electrical box, just for the MFD display.

    Are you sure the wires in the electrical box are all connected in the right places?

    Handlebar lanyard in place, correct?

  7. #7
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    I dont know of any repairs that were previously done - the guy said the battery was new last year and it seems to be good. hes a diesel mechanic so i "assume" that it was somewhat cared for, but it seemed strange that he was willing to let it go so cheaply when he seemed to have the proper skillset. I paid $450 and a running ski here looks to sell for $2000-3000. no trailer with.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by def View Post
    ... reading starts .5, then rises to .6 or .7, and settles for a short time, then starts to fall - seen it go down as low as .2 ohm.
    ...
    I don't know whether I would trust that meter. Does it have a fresh battery inside?

    Try another meter to see if the readings are different.

  9. #9
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    yeah i figured on the grease being there for protection - was just unsure of the contents of the CDI - I am an HVAC tech for a living and i seen some pretty gross greasy crap come out of capacitors before.

    yep running the new used CDI

    the ebox ground had a pulled off crimp, and there were a couple broken grounds, and a yellow wire that had been damaged by the cdi gettin holed.

    the battery cover is there - as are the battery tiedowns. noted on the shorting problem. will have to check the stator wiring tomorrow but seems to me that one of the first broken wires i fixed was possibly on that wire. I know there was a red and black that had been clipped and the red was run right to the engine.

    the 1/4 amp fuse in my ebox had scorched black goo on it from the cdi - I ohmed it and the signal was intermittant - not a good connection so i went looking for a new one. the closest i was able to find was 1/2amp. that is what is in place for this phase until i can find a source for the proper size.

    I have not visually verified all the wiring connections on the ebox board - will do tomorrow.

    lanyard in place - no spark. when ebox was open i disconnected the kill switch and lanyard and ohmed it out. dont remember the reading but i believe it was OL when button pushed or lanyard disconnected. had continuity when lanyard on. (that was afternoon sun before tornado warning so i might have the order messed, however pushing the button with lanyard on gave same signal as no lanyard)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by def View Post
    ... reading starts .5, then rises to .6 or .7, and settles for a short time, then starts to fall - seen it go down as low as .2 ohm.
    ...
    I don't know whether I would trust that meter. Does it have a fresh battery inside?

    Try another meter to see if the readings are different.
    I believe the battery is good - its my work meter, but i have another i can try tomorrow as well. both are pro grade. ones a UEI phoenix and the other is an older Fluke

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