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  1. #1

    Help with replacing fuel lines

    So I realize I need to replace the old gray Tempo lines in my 2000 Virage TX based on what some have pointed out to me in other posts. I found the links to understand that I need about 20 ft of marine grade fuel line which I'm hoping the auto parts store has. I'm very new to doing this type of work, but I understand it's not very difficult. But I want to make sure I have my bases covered. Am I going to have to remove any other parts to replace the fuel lines or should all lines be accessible to me? Also, do you need to pinch off the line at all when taking the existing clamps off and pulling the existing lines to prevent fuel spillage? What other things do I need to consider or do in order to prep for this job. I want to learn how to do this type of work on my own, but still very new to it.

    Once I get those replaced, I intend to clean out the carbs. Do I need to use a carb rebuild kit or just get some carb cleaner and disassemble, clean, and rebuild? Anything to pay close attention to while doing this?

    Thanks in advance.


  2. #2

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    First of all get a fire extinguisher. Use the one from the ski or better yet one from your house. Get it out and have it ready and handy, NEVER work around gas without one. With all those fumes around it is just a matter of time 'til they are the right mixture and find a spark. Even a few gallons of gas in a tank will catch your house, cars or other jet skis on fire.

    Dont worry about pinching the line, not on, no pump pressure or siphon.

    The lines on the engine are easy. I tried to cut the bands but found working them with a screwdriver to move the slot up past the catch works well for me. Drain the gas tank into a gas can.

    You will have to undo the front bolt on the white lollipop gas tank brace, the BIG fuel and oil fill hoses and the rubber straps to move the gas tank up into the front compartment. Dont be freaked out, it is easy.

    While you have the tank there unscrew the big plastic ring and take a peek inside for any liquid or dirt laying in the bottom of the tank. There is a big filter for dirt on the pump but getting any liquid laying in a layer at the bottom of the tank should be done while you are there, K447 can probably help you out in looking at the regulator inside the fuel pump you just pulled to see if it is in need of anything.

    I would buy about 6 feet of hose so you can hook up the tank to the engine while it is sitting in the front compartment. You will need about 10 small hose clamps. I bought mine at harbor freight and they have the yellow tabs on them so you done need a screwdriver or socket. $5,00. They look stupid but work easily and well. I am the only one in the engine compartment so I dont care.

    Dont be an idiot like me and forget wich line goes to the top injectors, I think it does make a difference. I THINK it goes out of the send side which is the starboard side to the top of the injectors, out the bottom, through the schrader valve, and back to the return which is on the port side of the pump. K447 may be able to help out on the routing of the fuel. The regulator is on the return side of the line in the fuel pump and it is the little valve that keeps a high pressure in the gas lines.

    To me, and I do a fair amount of wrenching, take the carbs to a small engine repair shop and have them do it. I have done about 5 small engine carbs in my life and can never seem to get it right. On my Kawasaki's it was a nightmare because you cant get a screwdriver on the jets once they are on the engine. Even on my lawnmower my float needle sticks. Also they can do a rough jet on them for you. While you are at it ask the shop if you bring the ski by after you put the carbs back on for a final tune, You will have to run water through her for that. Most times however they should be able to get it right the first time.

  3. #3

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    BTW, use your inner Buddha:

    If the ski wants the carbs rebuilt it will tell you. If it doesnt spend your money on a new seat cover, a bottle of fine tequila and flowers for the wife, girlfriend or both of them. You will enjoy that ride too.

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  5. #4
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    48straight has brought up some very valid points. But hes over complicating it. It should take around 15 feet of ethanol safe 1/4 ID inch fuel line for you ski. Replace one line at a time so you dont get confused. Theres no reason to be moving the tank around. Run for a bit after youve replaced all lines and check piston wash and check how the plugs look. Its easy and all the heads unbolt. That will instantly tell you the state of your carbs. If its not right youll be able to first person see how they look and decide.

  6. #5
    This is all very helpful and much appreciated. I do have a full tank of gas. Is it necessary to empty it out? And realistically, what is the likelihood of this being dangerous? I mean, if I shut off the gas, replace the lines, then start it up, what should I be paying close attention to?

  7. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd3682 View Post
    So I realize I need to replace the old gray Tempo lines in my 2000 Virage TX based on what some have pointed out to me in other posts. I found the links to understand that I need about 20 ft of marine grade fuel line which I'm hoping the auto parts store has. I'm very new to doing this type of work, but I understand it's not very difficult. But I want to make sure I have my bases covered. Am I going to have to remove any other parts to replace the fuel lines or should all lines be accessible to me? Also, do you need to pinch off the line at all when taking the existing clamps off and pulling the existing lines to prevent fuel spillage? What other things do I need to consider or do in order to prep for this job. I want to learn how to do this type of work on my own, but still very new to it.

    Once I get those replaced, I intend to clean out the carbs. Do I need to use a carb rebuild kit or just get some carb cleaner and disassemble, clean, and rebuild? Anything to pay close attention to while doing this?

    Thanks in advance.
    Carburetor rebuild means buying and installing genuine OEM carb rebuild kits. John Zigler sells these kits and anything else you would need.

    Changing the fuel hoses is the right time to also rebuild the carburetors. And clean/check everything else related to the fuel system. Fuel selector valve replacement is not a bad idea. These are not expensive. If your old selector valve starts to leak air into the fuel supply then the carbs will not receive proper fuel flow and pressure.

    There is no filter inside the fuel tank on a carburetor Polaris, only on the fuel injected versions.

    If there is any chance that the fuel tank is contaminated with water or dirt, or bad gasoline, then you should drain and clean the tank. The fuel tank is held down with three rubber straps, plus the oil tank would need to be moved to allow the fuel tank to move. Getting the rubber straps back in place afterwards can be a battle.

    Safety is paramount when working with gasoline. Fire extinguisher at hand. Use rags to absorb small amounts of fuel that will leak out of disconnected hoses. Discard the rags into a metal container with a lid to prevent fire hazard. Work in well ventilated area.

    Change one fuel line at a time.

    Don't forget the pulse hoses between carb and crankcase.

    Use good quality hose clamps. I prefer the Oetiker type gapless ear clamps. Needs a tool for installation, but these stay tight despite vibration and hose aging.

  8. #7
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    Just for safety, open the gas cap to relieve any pressure. If there is pressure in the tank when you remove the supply line it will pour gas all over the place.

  9. #8
    Thanks for the info. K447, you mentioned replacing the fuel filter before. Where is that actually located? Are you referring to the fuel water separator? If not, should I clean that out?

  10. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd3682 View Post
    ... mentioned replacing the fuel filter before. Where is that actually located?

    Are you referring to the fuel water separator? If not, should I clean that out?
    Depends on the model and year. Some models have a fuel-water separator, some just have the fuel filter. Some have two fuel filters.

    Check the online parts diagram for your machine to see how the factory configuration was done.

  11. #10
    In the parts diagram, it doesn't show a fuel filter, just the fuel-water separator. I can probably just clean that out then. Unless I'm missing something.

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