06-19-2014, 09:41 AM #1
HELP: when I start my ski on trailer it rev's straight to WOT w/out pulling throttle!
I hadn't started my ski in 6 months or so, and when I went to start it it went straight to wide open throttle.
I shut it off immediately and off to my mechanic I went.
And...The finger throttle mechanism seems to be working properly, and has "tension" upon pulling trigger.
He said its probably the throttle sensor inside the throttle body. Well, apparently you can't just buy the sensor, you have to buy the entire throttle body, which includes the sensor...for $900 plus labor. GEEEZ!
He also said after shutting the ski off he can hear something making a "noise", coming from the throttle body, and the "noise" continues for awhile. He does not have another 300x in his shop to see if that is normal. I have never noticed a noise coming from throttle body, but have never specifically listened for it.
He also said that he tested the ohms going to throttle body and it is not with in "normal" spec's as listed by Kawasaki's spec., which is having him wonder if there is something wrong with the "brains" of the ski, which costs even more to replace.
Hes been working on my skis for a long time and I trust that he is not trying to rip me off. He suggested I ask you guys to see if ya'll might have a different, easier fix for the problem.
There is only 35 hours on the ski...2011, 300x.
06-19-2014, 10:16 AM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Discovery Bay, CA
The "noise" coming from the TB is normal, sounds like a buzz or humm. Just the noise an DBW throttle body makes
06-19-2014, 12:39 PM #3
Is dealer referring to TPS?
Even so, TPS is checked by measuring input and output voltage, not resistance.
And there is no ohm spec for TPS in the service manual.
You need to find out from the dealer what sensor or what part of engine they are measuring the ohm.
And also ask them what page on the manual they are getting the ohm spec from.
BTW, can you consistently duplicate this WOT rpm problem on a trailer?
06-19-2014, 02:51 PM #4
06-19-2014, 03:05 PM #5
It's a shame there's not someone with the same ski you can swap out a TB and or ECU just to trial and error your problem...
I assume you have no extended warranty?
06-19-2014, 03:27 PM #6
First the dealer tech's ohm check on TB doesn't make a sense (are you certain the stealership is not after your $900?). I spent 30 minutes reading the TB section in the manual and there is nothing like what the dealer says. The only thing that comes close is the Accelerometer section on page 3-59 of the manual. There is an ohm check for that and it should be about 4 to 6 kohms per manual. But the Acceleromenter is front of the engine just below the glove compartment, not even close to the TB.
Instead of doing a shot-gun repair throwing bunch of parts like TB, ECU, etc. (like attempting to hit a target by a blind man), have dealer connect KDS software to the ski and see the history of engine parameters and error codes. With this kind of obvious symptom, there should be something that will stick out.
Last edited by meangreenman; 06-19-2014 at 04:09 PM.
06-19-2014, 11:11 PM #7
Thanks so much for your efforts. I don't know if you remember, but we rode together one day out of Dana Point a couple years ago, with about 15 other SoCal riders.
My mechanic is Greg at Circuit Jet Sports, don't know if you know him, but he's legit and he's not the type to take advantage. In fact, he's done plenty for me and never charged me.
I am passing this stuff on to him, so your information is very helpful.
I don't know if he has KDS software to see the history of engine parameters and error codes, perhaps a stealership might. Though, I don't trust any of them.
My sincerest thanks to you.
06-19-2014, 11:12 PM #8
06-19-2014, 11:13 PM #9
06-20-2014, 01:09 AM #10
- Join Date
- May 2008
The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer, and you are able to check it with an OHM meter. I usually use an analog one in these cases, unless it's a digital with bar graph like a Fluke. Anyway, this test if for when the connector is unplugged. If there is one, you will find the bad spot on the internal board. But your also correct in the fact that a voltage check is useful as this also checks the wiring/connections.
And I get the Throttle Body noise as well, probably from the PWM signal going to the butterfly motor.
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