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  1. #1

    4-tec weak points?

    Last weekend, I sheared the flywheel bolts on my '12 RXP-X. When the motor abruptly shut down during a 8450 RPM pass I assumed the worst. (16.5# on the boost gauge)
    The code thrown was "60:P0340 Camshaft position sensor 'A' circuit (bank 1 or single sensor)", so on the long drive home I was thinking "broken timing chain" and all of the resulting carnage. I was very happy to find, after pulling the PTO housing, that it was only the sheared flywheel bolts. The worst that happened was the broken bolts made contact with the stator, damaging the windings. I then found several threads on GreenHulk on the topic. Unfortunately, I found them too late to do me any good.

    So, now that I have pulled the motor out of the hull to drill the sheared bolts and alignment pin from the crankshaft, are there any other weak points that I should take care of while I'm in this deep? It looks like ARP bolts are the way to go, but are there any other stock fasteners and/or components that are also prone to failure?


    Please, no comments like "Remove the SC and install turbo"

    Mods:
    V-Tech tuner
    ET137+4mm wheel
    R&D intake & exhaust
    R&D thermostat kit
    Light weight retainers
    RRFPR

    TIA,
    Nick


  2. #2
    mikelytle1077's Avatar
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    Good possibility some of your bearings are toast. It only takes a split second at those rpms to wreck havoc on the oil pumps and engine bearings. Just did my buddies 09 rxp same shit all the flywheel bolts were sheared. You most defiantly need to pull the engine out and rebuild it. The holes in the crank gear go straight through so getting the bolts out is very easy. The flywheel bolts in my opinion are a major weak point updated or not. Arp seems to be the answer much better material. Sorry to hear about your ski good luck.

  3. #3
    Camshaft sprocket bolts are very soft too........

  4. #4
    shrabber's Avatar
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    If you feel like doing it, I did all my engine bolts with marine grade stainless steel bolts from mcmasters. There all Allen heads so no more torx crap and they are stronger and only require two tools. Plus there about 100 bucks to do complete engine and engine mounts with spares including the long Pto bolts

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by shrabber View Post
    If you feel like doing it, I did all my engine bolts with marine grade stainless steel bolts from mcmasters. There all Allen heads so no more torx crap and they are stronger and only require two tools. Plus there about 100 bucks to do complete engine and engine mounts with spares including the long Pto bolts
    This isn't a good idea, IMHO. There are no stainless alloys that compare to the strength of other carbon steel alloys for critical bolts.

  6. #6
    Boost-A-Holic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikelytle1077 View Post
    Good possibility some of your bearings are toast. It only takes a split second at those rpms to wreck havoc on the oil pumps and engine bearings. Just did my buddies 09 rxp same shit all the flywheel bolts were sheared. You most defiantly need to pull the engine out and rebuild it. The holes in the crank gear go straight through so getting the bolts out is very easy. The flywheel bolts in my opinion are a major weak point updated or not. Arp seems to be the answer much better material. Sorry to hear about your ski good luck.
    yup.....that would be me. ARP is tits, screw OEM junk.

    other than the flywheel bolts id say the stock plastic intake manifold is a weak point fer sure. they like to crack.

  7. #7
    shrabber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by shrabber View Post
    If you feel like doing it, I did all my engine bolts with marine grade stainless steel bolts from mcmasters. There all Allen heads so no more torx crap and they are stronger and only require two tools. Plus there about 100 bucks to do complete engine and engine mounts with spares including the long Pto bolts
    This isn't a good idea, IMHO. There are no stainless alloys that compare to the strength of other carbon steel alloys for critical bolts.
    Read grasshopper!!! Marine grade stainless steel not only have I built my seadoo motors with it, I have a few motors that make a little more power than a seadoo running the same bolts . We are not talking about Critical bolts, never was,rod bolts, head bolts etc. These bolts are assembly bolts that are proven beyond 1503. Now It's optional as I pointed out, just what I did and it is proven beyond a seadoo.
    Last edited by shrabber; 06-21-2014 at 01:00 AM.

  8. #8
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEpro1200 View Post
    Last weekend, I sheared the flywheel bolts on my '12 RXP-X. When the motor abruptly shut down during a 8450 RPM pass I assumed the worst. (16.5# on the boost gauge)
    The code thrown was "60:P0340 Camshaft position sensor 'A' circuit (bank 1 or single sensor)", so on the long drive home I was thinking "broken timing chain" and all of the resulting carnage. I was very happy to find, after pulling the PTO housing, that it was only the sheared flywheel bolts. The worst that happened was the broken bolts made contact with the stator, damaging the windings. I then found several threads on GreenHulk on the topic. Unfortunately, I found them too late to do me any good.

    So, now that I have pulled the motor out of the hull to drill the sheared bolts and alignment pin from the crankshaft, are there any other weak points that I should take care of while I'm in this deep? It looks like ARP bolts are the way to go, but are there any other stock fasteners and/or components that are also prone to failure?


    Please, no comments like "Remove the SC and install turbo"

    Mods:
    V-Tech tuner
    ET137+4mm wheel
    R&D intake & exhaust
    R&D thermostat kit
    Light weight retainers
    RRFPR

    TIA,
    Nick
    Well, the problems identified by the other posters all stem from the supercharger! The supercharger is the weakest point of the 4 Tec! Think about it for awhile...........So, remove it and replace it with a turbo!


  9. #9
    Sayers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEpro1200 View Post
    Last weekend, I sheared the flywheel bolts on my '12 RXP-X. When the motor abruptly shut down during a 8450 RPM pass I assumed the worst. (16.5# on the boost gauge)
    The code thrown was "60:P0340 Camshaft position sensor 'A' circuit (bank 1 or single sensor)", so on the long drive home I was thinking "broken timing chain" and all of the resulting carnage. I was very happy to find, after pulling the PTO housing, that it was only the sheared flywheel bolts. The worst that happened was the broken bolts made contact with the stator, damaging the windings. I then found several threads on GreenHulk on the topic. Unfortunately, I found them too late to do me any good.

    So, now that I have pulled the motor out of the hull to drill the sheared bolts and alignment pin from the crankshaft, are there any other weak points that I should take care of while I'm in this deep? It looks like ARP bolts are the way to go, but are there any other stock fasteners and/or components that are also prone to failure?


    Please, no comments like "Remove the SC and install turbo"

    Mods:
    V-Tech tuner
    ET137+4mm wheel
    R&D intake & exhaust
    R&D thermostat kit
    Light weight retainers
    RRFPR

    TIA,
    Nick

    What was your slip set at?

  10. #10
    If i knew,...I wouldn't ask sea-one's Avatar
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    Look, My question is! At $14K for these skis and 8500 RPMs!! why aren't they being built with (ARP) this kinda hardware already????

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