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  1. #1

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    2001 Polaris 1200 TXI, multiple issues, trying to find a likely cause

    Hey guys, I picked up an 01 TXI from someone in town for a reasonable price with a "bad fuel pump" turns out there is a lot more than that wrong... I replaced the fuel pump and took it out to the lake today and it made it all of .8 miles before it died. I didn't want to chance some major issue and swam it back to shore, when I got back in I found the bottom of the 2 reset buttons was popped out. Prior to even getting in the lake I noticed a few other issues. The ski would not go into reverse while running, after putting it into reverse it would not go into forward while running, only with the bilge button pushed. The start/stop button starts the ski fine but will not turn it off, and the buttons on the MFD don't seem to do anything. I also noticed it took on a decent amount of water so I need to figure out where that is coming from, but need to get a hose fitting to hook it up and find out.

    my initial thought is the LR-505 module for all of the buttons but wanted to confirm before I start tearing into everything, and see what might have caused the bottom reset button to pop.

    Thanks,
    Carl


  2. #2

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    Another possible issue was that when the ski was running at a decent speed, the speedo maxed out at 20, and it was at least 35... i never saw it go above 20 for some reason

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Yep, multiple issues.

    The LR module provides switched power for bilge pump and electric reverse. The Bilge button overrides the LR module and forces power onto the Orange circuits, hence reverse working when a bilge button is held down.

    You can disconnect and bypass the LR-503 module while you diagnose the other issues.

    There is a separate fuse for the MFI display. The display should always show the clock and wake up automatically when the engine is cranking or starts.

    The circuit breaker (Reset Button) popping up is a problem. Normally these never trigger. It may simply be corroded or damaged internally. Or there is a short somewhere in the wiring harness. One Reset Button is for the fuel pump, the other is for almost everything else.

  4. #4

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    So... while I was floating, I tried to restart it and it seemed like the MFI did a sleep then wake-up without any time having passed. I hit the start button and it turned over and the MFI was normal, then I stopped and tried again but it did the normal please be safe or whatever wakeup from sleep message with only a few seconds passing by.

    Should I test the LR module as well? I will be dropping it into the lake again tomorrow to try and find the water leak, I can't get the bolt off to swap the hose adapter from my other polaris onto this one so the lake is my only way to do any tests.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rm12577 View Post
    So... while I was floating, I tried to restart it and it seemed like the MFI did a sleep then wake-up without any time having passed. I hit the start button and it turned over and the MFI was normal, then I stopped and tried again but it did the normal please be safe or whatever wakeup from sleep message with only a few seconds passing by.

    Should I test the LR module as well?

    I will be dropping it into the lake again tomorrow to try and find the water leak, I can't get the bolt off to swap the hose adapter from my other polaris onto this one so the lake is my only way to do any tests.
    The MFI display rebooting suggests a wiring problem. Start by removing and cleaning the engine ground bolts and cables and both ends of both battery cables.

    Bypassing the LR module takes only a few minutes once you get inside the electrical box. Disconnect battery first, of course. With LR disconnected you have one less thing to complicate any further diagnostics.

    You can start and run the cold engine without water for 20-30 seconds or so.

    If you have a 3/4" hose barb to garden hose adapter you can connect the garden hose directly to the main cooling water feed 3/4" hose. Always remove the jet pump and drive shaft if you will be running the Engine on land for more than two minutes. This protects the driveline water seals from excessive friction heating at the seal lips.

  6. #6

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    The battery side of the cables is good, I will check the other side tomorrow and make sure the ground is clean and well seated. I will see if I can pick up the hose adapter tomorrow so I can do more testing on it as well. I did find the page on bypassing the LR module for the 503, is it possible to bypass the mfi on these or is it required for the fuel system management?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rm12577 View Post
    ... I did find the page on bypassing the LR module for the 503, is it possible to bypass the mfi on these or is it required for the fuel system management?
    MFI can also be bypassed, if needed. It only affects Start button security when unplugged. The bypass is simply to re-enable the starter.

  8. #8

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    The reset button that popped is hooked to a red wire with a white stripe, I have a 2000 manual that only has the genesis for injection models so it doesn't really help me much, do you think it is the fuel pump reset? That would explain why it slowed down more and more until it finally died, loss of fuel pressure due to the fuse popping. I really don't want to take the tank out again... but if the pump might be the issue so be it.

    The LR module has what appears to be a hole melted in it, my assumption is that it shouldn't be there but maybe it is for cooling? I ordered a replacement anyways because there arent many available that I could find of the 503.

  9. #9

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    Looks like based on my genesis wiring guide it is the fuel pump... think it is worth trying again or do I need to drain and replace the pump? I put a new internal pump in the housing but the connector from the pump to the top panel was missing so I soldered all of the connections on, in the process I put some connectors inside of the tank so it would be easier to replace next time, all connections are heat shrink covered and from how it was set there shouldn't be any crossing of connectors at all. But there is always the chance that the heat shrink couldn't handle the gasoline, usually takes longer than a couple of weeks for gas to eat pvc that may or may not be rated for gas though, I couldn't tell.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rm12577 View Post
    The reset button that popped is hooked to a red wire with a white stripe, I have a 2000 manual that only has the genesis for injection models so it doesn't really help me much, do you think it is the fuel pump reset? That would explain why it slowed down more and more until it finally died, loss of fuel pressure due to the fuse popping. I really don't want to take the tank out again... but if the pump might be the issue so be it.

    The LR module has what appears to be a hole melted in it, my assumption is that it shouldn't be there but maybe it is for cooling? I ordered a replacement anyways because there arent many available that I could find of the 503.
    LR module should not have any holes! Module has gone bad. When it shorted it may well have tripped the circuit breaker.

    Virage TXi and Genesis i are very similar, electrically. Minor difference such as physical location of some components.

    You can disconnect the fuel pump connector and use your multimeter to verify which wire is connected to the tripped breaker. Disconnect the wire from the breaker for continuity testing.

    The fuel pump connector has a small red locking tab that slides sideways a few mm, then you can squeeze the actual release tab and pull the connector apart.

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