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  1. #1

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    Question Replacing head gasket help!!!

    Hey guys. So, I tore this sight apart trying to avoid opening a new thread, but here goes. I'm replacing the head gasket on my '06 RXP and all I have left to remove are the E14 torx bolts for the head bolts. However, I did not place the #3 @ TDC and therefor did not put in the cam or crank locks (which I have). I tried to turn the engine over by hand by grabbing the drive shaft and trying to turn it. No go. I also took the intake off the super charger and turning the sc nut with a 17mm socket, but I couldn't get the socket to seat as it was too big and wouldn't fit into the hole in the center of the turbine that the sc nut sits in.

    I have read that TDC and locking the cam and crank doesn't matter much on tear down. Is that the case or should I reattach the cam gear and try to get the engine to TDC? If not, will just locking the cam and crank once I have the motor apart protect me from f***ing up the timing?

    Thanks for any help guys. I appreciate it.


  2. #2
    canuck's Avatar
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    Lock the crank and cam on reassembly and you will be good to go.

    Did you take the spark plugs out before trying to turn the engine over ?

  3. #3
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=187371

    Why in the world would you not follow the shop manual procedures to do this?

    With plugs out, turning the SC nut counterclockwise should have been very easy with the proper tools!

  4. #4

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    I have a printout of the manual, but I'm having trouble with the whole TDC aspect. And yes, the plugs are out and the intake manifold is off the head so maybe I'm just stupid, weak or a combination of the two? The sc nut may work, but the socket won't fit in the hole in order to get it on the nut. The wall of the socket is too thick. And thank you Canuck for the timing answer.

  5. #5
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Use a 17mm long socket on the supercharger nut and turn it counterclock wise until the #3 piston is at TDC. If the head is still on the block use a coat hanger or thin metal rod in the spark plug hole, rotate the engine until the rod is at its highest point or TDC. The manual says this procedure can be done without setting #3 at TDC BUT......its easier to do that now cause you want to mark the cam chain and cam gear so as to reassemble it to its original setting without a "boat"load of asspain.

    Also, be sure to stuff some paper towel in the cam chain opening area......so nothing drops down in that area. If you do drop one of the 2 small bolts or the TOPS thrust washer the PTO cover will need to be removed as well......after the removal of the pump/driveshaft!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    Use a 17mm long socket on the supercharger nut and turn it counterclock wise until the #3 piston is at TDC. If the head is still on the block use a coat hanger or thin metal rod in the spark plug hole, rotate the engine until the rod is at its highest point or TDC. The manual says this procedure can be done without setting #3 at TDC BUT......its easier to do that now cause you want to mark the cam chain and cam gear so as to reassemble it to its original setting without a "boat"load of asspain.

    Also, be sure to stuff some paper towel in the cam chain opening area......so nothing drops down in that area. If you do drop one of the 2 small bolts or the TOPS thrust washer the PTO cover will need to be removed as well......after the removal of the pump/driveshaft!
    He needs to make sure that #3 is on the compression stroke. It could be 180 out even if it's at the top.

  7. #7
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfcitypops View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    Use a 17mm long socket on the supercharger nut and turn it counterclock wise until the #3 piston is at TDC. If the head is still on the block use a coat hanger or thin metal rod in the spark plug hole, rotate the engine until the rod is at its highest point or TDC. The manual says this procedure can be done without setting #3 at TDC BUT......its easier to do that now cause you want to mark the cam chain and cam gear so as to reassemble it to its original setting without a "boat"load of asspain.

    Also, be sure to stuff some paper towel in the cam chain opening area......so nothing drops down in that area. If you do drop one of the 2 small bolts or the TOPS thrust washer the PTO cover will need to be removed as well......after the removal of the pump/driveshaft!
    He needs to make sure that #3 is on the compression stroke. It could be 180 out even if it's at the top.
    True....he needs to use the crank locking tool and the cam locking tool. Its best to do this at the beginning rather than later.

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