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  1. #1

    Replacing valves?

    How straightforward is it to swap out the valves? An open question I know, but I'm trying to gauge if it's a DIY for an technical engine newbie (i'm very good with general mechanics around the ski, can rebuild SC, pump bearings, IBR, valve springs / retainers etc in my sleep).

    If I take the head off can I just change the valves, fit new bolts, new gasket and bolt back together again? Do you need to skim irrespective of the head age / condition?

    Are the Supertech valves really just drop in with no work needed on seats? (I would fit new springs / retainers at the same time)

    Am I naive to think it's a straightforward job with my level of knowledge or will I find it a walk in the park following the shop manual and observing the torques etc?

    To date I have fitted and set up all my mods myself.

    Honest opinions?


  2. #2
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    If you know how to check valves
    put them in and check each one and if they are good then you don't need any machine work
    you should lap them to get them right
    IMO send them to slow91

  3. #3
    If you are going to the work to replace the valves, you should get the seats done as well. I am not a fan of lapping. If the seats are done right, no lapping is needed. Most lapping compounds leave a finish that is too rough, and promotes carbon build up.

    All the Sea Doo 4 stroke heads I have worked on were at or beyond the width limit for the valve seats, and the exhaust seats had some degree of carbon build up as a result.

    I would also check the valve height on the old ones and make sure the new ones are in the same range. Sea Doo never gave a spec for this, which amazes every machinist I have taken the heads to get done.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by skidoochris View Post
    If you know how to check valves
    put them in and check each one and if they are good then you don't need any machine work
    you should lap them to get them right
    IMO send them to slow91
    Agree slow91 is the man for the job, but I live in Sweden so the shipping is a PITA.

  5. #5
    canuck's Avatar
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    This is on my 05 GTX yours is basically the same engine.


    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=216668


    You could remove the cylinder head and have a local automotive shop cut the seats and install the valves. I would suggest ARP head studs instead of oem head bolts. I used new oem head bolts for the GTX because they were cheaper than ARP studs and this is a stock 185hp model with no plans to increase boost or rpm. On my RXP I used the ARP studs. I also like to replace the cam sprocket bolts the manual says they can be reused for about $12 I felt better replacing them if they fail or come loose it will cost more than $12 to fix.
    Last edited by canuck; 06-22-2014 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Added info.

  6. #6
    Great info guys, thanks.

    Sounds like I should pull the head and get a machine shop to sort the valve seats. I guess if I leave the valves in, they can use these to reference the new stem lengths?

    Putting it all back together sounds straightforward providing you follow the precisely. Cleanliness and attention to detail seem to be the order of the day. ARP studs are the way to go, bit concerning that some grinding may be required to clear the underside of the rocker cover?!?

    How do you protect the timing? Or do you have to set it afterwards?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by tornado34 View Post
    Great info guys, thanks.

    Sounds like I should pull the head and get a machine shop to sort the valve seats.
    That's what I would do. Even though I could pull it off, I would need to buy and rent tools and it just seems like a job better left to a pro. I'm a parts changer when it comes to skis. I can R&R the crap outta most anything. Cutting valves, measuring height... not so much.

  8. #8
    canuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tornado34 View Post
    Great info guys, thanks.

    Sounds like I should pull the head and get a machine shop to sort the valve seats. I guess if I leave the valves in, they can use these to reference the new stem lengths?

    Putting it all back together sounds straightforward providing you follow the precisely. Cleanliness and attention to detail seem to be the order of the day. ARP studs are the way to go, bit concerning that some grinding may be required to clear the underside of the rocker cover?!?

    How do you protect the timing? Or do you have to set it afterwards?

    I used Supertech valves and the overall length from valve face to end of stem was identical to the oem valves.

    The ARP studs in my RXP required no modification of the valve cover.

    For the timing get the crank and cam lock tools and follow the removal and re assembly procedure in the shop manual. For me the scariest part of re assembly was making sure absolutely nothing gets dropped down the cam chain slot into the bottom of the engine. There are two small bolts on the back of the head and three cam sprocket bolts I had a rag stuffed in there and a friend holding a magnet under the bolts just in case. If you drop anything the rear PTO cover will probably have to come off to retrieve the bolt.

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  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by canuck View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by tornado34 View Post
    Great info guys, thanks.

    Sounds like I should pull the head and get a machine shop to sort the valve seats. I guess if I leave the valves in, they can use these to reference the new stem lengths?

    Putting it all back together sounds straightforward providing you follow the precisely. Cleanliness and attention to detail seem to be the order of the day. ARP studs are the way to go, bit concerning that some grinding may be required to clear the underside of the rocker cover?!?

    How do you protect the timing? Or do you have to set it afterwards?

    I used Supertech valves and the overall length from valve face to end of stem was identical to the oem valves.

    The ARP studs in my RXP required no modification of the valve cover.

    For the timing get the crank and cam lock tools and follow the removal and re assembly procedure in the shop manual. For me the scariest part of re assembly was making sure absolutely nothing gets dropped down the cam chain slot into the bottom of the engine. There are two small bolts on the back of the head and three cam sprocket bolts I had a rag stuffed in there and a friend holding a magnet under the bolts just in case. If you drop anything the rear PTO cover will probably have to come off to retrieve the bolt.
    ha! know that feeling. The thing is the more you try to actively prevent it happening the more likely it is to happen. Murphy's Law and all that.

    Think I'm gonna start by swapping out the springs & retainers from the top side to give me some RPM headroom and peak spike room. If, by a miracle I start hitting the limiter at 8600, then I'll do the valves.

    Can feel that 137+4 calling with all the AFR groundwork now in place!

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