06-27-2014, 04:27 AM #1
? Removing alloy coupling from crank (SHO)
I have the motor out of my FZR Being stripped down to rebuild, Im currently stuck as to what to do next as far as removing the drive coupling from the back of the crank, I have removed the left hand threaded hex bolt, Applied heat with a blow torch to try and crack the thread locking compound, we have attempted locking the motor tight and me on the end of a 5ft steel bar locked into the coupling and not a hope in hell of it cracking.
From what i can see the coupling is still a Right hand thread, so undoing it is anti clock wise.
also have seen the "BIG ASS" Wrench available to buy, but im sure the bar we got is big enough.
Does anybody have any pointers from past experience in how the hell to remove this horrid little thing?
its the only thing left keeping the rear housing on and stopping the crank from coming out.
Any help would be much appreciated!
06-27-2014, 06:02 AM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
I use a adapter that fits the coupling and a big impact tool to remove when out of the boat. The impact helps get it broke loose. A good bit of heat also. I have heard however on the FZR's the engine power is so strong they sometimes have to be cut off because they self tighten so tight.
06-27-2014, 07:52 AM #3
The coupler has left hand threads, so turn it clockwise to loosen it. The manual states using a heat gun for 30 mins....yeah right. lol Use a torch with common sense, avoiding moving the flame where it would possibly damage any wiring, seals etc, and heat the coupler to 300-350ish fahrenheit. Check the temp with a laser temp gun, and be sure to evenly displace the heat around the coupler as much as possible. Use a big impact with the coupler tool and it should break free and spin off rather easily. if you don't have a "bad ass impact", try a Dewalt CORDED impact. They have 345 ft lbs of torque and should do the job. Good luck.
06-27-2014, 08:36 AM #4
- Join Date
- May 2006
Last edited by Rocketman; 10-09-2014 at 10:13 PM.
06-27-2014, 10:19 AM #5
Thanks Kerry....Correct on the threading. I was thinking the small holder or retainer. In regards to burning the seal...never had a problem, or even close to a problem. On the same token, I did see one someone else removed and torched the seal. Be careful and use common sense and you'll be fine. Sorry for the confusion.
06-27-2014, 07:33 PM #6
Cheers for the info, so basically ive gotta lose the skirt and try harder! I shall keep persisting and see if we can get the motor held down solid.
06-28-2014, 07:15 AM #7
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
Heat for sure. I tried everything and when I finally got serious with the heat, it popped off with half the effort I was using before.
06-28-2014, 04:57 PM #8
I did the same then it popped off easy!
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