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  1. #1
    liquid chicken's Avatar
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    i &$^%ing hate trailer wiring..lights... ect

    so wasted day... i SHOULD be on the water right now but guess what.. no trailer lights.

    its been narrowed down to the converter box in the wiring kit on the jeep. all jeep lights work as intended with the lights on and off. hook the trailer up to the 4 pin and all jeep lights continue to work BUT no marker lights, blinkers or hazards on the trailer yet the brake lights work when i step on the brakes. the 4 pin has a built in tester that no longer lights up.

    ive checked fuses and the ground all are find. U-haul is who installed the hitch and wiring and up until today its been fine. of course i have no warranty on the wiring so im looking at $100 to have it redone. i will of course spend the extra $10 to cover it for 2 years.

    in the years i have owned skis i have had more issues with god damn lights on a trailer than i ever did with mechanical issues in my skis.


  2. #2
    Q in Arizona's Avatar
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    I would put money on it being the damn converter box on the vehicle. I've had mine replaced twice and needs a third replacement as we speak. Thank God I got the UHaul lifetime warranty...still sucks ass having to do it though. I also have the "built in" lighted tester on the vehicle plug. I also use one of these? An easy way to tell if it's glitching from the vehicle...I keep one in my glovebox. I don't think their converter boxes are worth a shit when it comes to water. I'm pretty sure when we back in they are getting wet and causing it.

    The first time I had mine replaced the UHaul guy said he mounted mine as high up as it could go...wasn't enough apparently. Next time I get mine dealt with I think I may ask to see the bix first and try to see what the deal is and maybe try to do some waterproofing or something. How far is it to the water for you? Are you willing to risk driving without the trailer lights? Arm signals and careful lane switching! FTW! If I still had break lights I would already be at the water if I were you.

  3. #3
    liquid chicken's Avatar
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    its about 25 miles id guess. not worth the risk of getting pulled over.

    im pretty sure its that box. when i found where it was its just suspended with the wire zip tied to tight there is zero play which i think caused the failure.

  4. #4
    Q in Arizona's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by liquid chicken View Post
    its about 25 miles id guess. not worth the risk of getting pulled over.

    im pretty sure its that box. when i found where it was its just suspended with the wire zip tied to tight there is zero play which i think caused the failure.
    Yeah they zip tie mine too. Grrrr. Ticket for what? It's daylight...use hand signals. You still have brake lights, right?

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  6. #5
    Captain Spalding's Avatar
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    I can't speak for your state laws, but here in Kansas if you can see the vehicles lights will the trailer is connected your legal.

  7. #6
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    Why not just buy the kit and do it yourself? Its all plug and play, no splicing or cutting required. I will not buy a vehicle without the factory tow package any more. It just guarantees the integrity of everything. Not to mention you usually get other upgrades in the package that just makes the vehicle better overall for towing. The 2014 Chrysler Town and Country I just bought has auto load leveling as part of the tow package. I have yet to tow with it since I own a full size pickup as well.

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  9. #7
    GGG's Avatar
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    I used to install hitches for uhaul. those boxes go bad all the time. When the trailer shorts, it blows the box long before it pops any fuses

  10. #8
    liquid chicken's Avatar
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    bryan - at the time of install i needed to get it all done at once. so it was easier to have them do it when they installed the hitch. i see how they pushed the $10 2 year wiring warranty.

    so i called uhaul back and asked for a manager and was transferred to customer service and spoke to a really nice guy who was in Arizona. this is what i have found from talking with a few people and seeing how it SHOULD have been installed. the tech that did the work half assed the wiring. if you look at a 2011 jeep compass from behind below the drivers side tail light there is a reflector in the bumper on the other side of that its hollow and thats where the converter box is just hanging there.

    when i talked to uhaul earlier he told me where to look for the box which was behind the driver side tail light. when i removed the light nothing there but the ground which was fine but the wires going down to the box were so tight i didnt want to try and move the light to much. that box SHOULD have been mounted either behind the light or inside the car where the spare tire is. so it was exposed to the elements as well as every day vibrations from driving so it was set up (not intentional i dont think, just lazy tech) for failure.

    so a complaint was filed and i was told i should hear back from a manager there in about 2 days. this was installed on 9/21/13 so it hasn't even been a year yet. i feel that due to the crappy install job uhaul needs to make this right. why should i have to pay extra because the people they have doing this cant do it right. if i dont hear back by thursday i will be calling them again. the shitty job by the tech cost me a day on the water today and may cost me another on sunday. yes i am making the choice to not tow without the proper lights.

    if anything they need to give me a new kit and i will rewire it myself. i am not happy about having to splice wires. could my trailer have caused a short? its possible but i doubt it.

  11. #9
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    Why is there any splicing of wires involved? You can buy kits in stores that plug in right at each tail light. No cutting or splicing required. They are really easy to install.

    Here you go.

    http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=20111173520

  12. #10
    liquid chicken's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Why is there any splicing of wires involved? You can buy kits in stores that plug in right at each tail light. No cutting or splicing required. They are really easy to install.

    Here you go.

    http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=20111173520
    I'm not going to run new wires from the battery to the trailer. that's what I paid them to do. they were talking about charging $100 to rewire the car and that was involving splicing from the converter box back and that's not acceptable

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