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Thread: 2000 Pro 785

  1. #1
    ZeeC's Avatar
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    2000 Pro 785

    Bought this last night has an intermittent spark. Did a compression test 120-122-122. I had the plugs grounded when doing the compression test and did see a spark every once in awhile. Bottom of the hull looks good there is some spidering on the nose near where the rub rail cracked, should I be worried about that? Going to start with trimming the plug wires but I am guessing the CDI is bad. I also noticed that it had tempo fuel lines, I thought they dumped those a couple years earlier? Also it looks like the oil injection has been removed (I assume the tank was supposed to be in the same place as in my SLX). The plan is to figure out the spark issue, rebuild the carbs and run new fuel lines. Also where can I get a replacement rub rail for this machine?

    Anything else recommended I do?

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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Intermittent spark can be caused by a grounded ignition kill wire (Black/Yellow) or a weak battery.

    If disconnecting the CDI Black/Yellow wire does not help, and the battery voltage is staying well above 10.6 volts when the engine is cranking, then either the CDI or the stator has a problem. Or something is not wired properly.

  3. #3
    ZeeC's Avatar
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    Followed your advise no luck. I opened up the electrical box and found some "custom" work done, the cdi was rattling loose and the voltage regulator was a nice backyard job. Also I didn't know Mitsubishi made CDI's for fuji motors.



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    I tested the stator everything checked out except

    Red/Purple or Yellow to Black: Infinite/open/no connection
    I am getting almost a short

    I am guessing the stator is bad?

    With that whole mess is it even worth thinking the CDI is good?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeeC View Post
    Followed your advise no luck. I opened up the electrical box and found some "custom" work done, the cdi was rattling loose and the voltage regulator was a nice backyard job. Also I didn't know Mitsubishi made CDI's for fuji motors.



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    I tested the stator everything checked out except

    Red/Purple or Yellow to Black: Infinite/open/no connection
    I am getting almost a short

    I am guessing the stator is bad?

    With that whole mess is it even worth thinking the CDI is good?
    Your stator Yellow and Red/Purple tests were done with both stator wires disconnected from everything else, correct?

    No real way to tell whether the CDI is good until you know the stator is good. The stator charging coil does not directly affect the ignition system. Do the other stator coils ohm check correctly?

    What is inside that taped up lump?

    I would start by returning the wiring to factory arrangement and resolving any questionable aspects. The Fuji ignition systems tend to be robust.

  5. #5
    ZeeC's Avatar
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    Stator is completely unplugged, everything else on the stator checks good.

    The lump is a voltage regulator, somebody decided to redneck engineer this ski

    I hate removing the stator, I don't wanna pull the engine out.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeeC View Post
    Stator is completely unplugged, everything else on the stator checks good.

    The lump is a voltage regulator, somebody decided to redneck engineer this ski

    I hate removing the stator, I don't wanna pull the engine out.
    Is that voltage regulator a non-Polaris part? If it is the wrong type of regulator it may have been the reason the stator charging coil is cooked.

    Changing the stator is never a fun idea. What ever it needs to have done, it needs to have done.

  7. #7
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    Got the bolts off the cover but damn thing won't come off. It has this black goop holding it on.

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    post some better pics of each side of the box I don't see the reg it should be by the board

  9. #9
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    I have started pulling things out, there is the original regulator board connected along with this goofy taped up regulator that had a red and blue wire, the yellow wire from the stator connected to the added regulator and had a pigtail that connected to the board. I have no idea why the other regulator was added. Is there a way to test the LR-31?

    Considering the mess I figured I should just clean it all up back to factory, John Zigler has a stator and CDI and a LR-31 if I need it.
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  10. #10
    ZeeC's Avatar
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    Finally got the flywheel nut off, what a PITA. I now gotta get myself smaller bolts for my puller, however I now notice the flywheel moves back and forth on the collar about a quarter inch. I don't remember my SL 750 flywheel doing that. My flywheel bad?

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