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  1. #1

    2001 genesis 1200 carb won't rev past 3000

    I have been searching forums for any ideas as to what's wrong but can't seem to find anything so here it goes. Picked up this machine a couple weeks ago. Was sitting for a few years. Cleaned the fuel system and replaced all the lines. It will start and idle fine for about ten seconds then it sounds like it starts missing and will stall but starts back up. Keeps fouling out the centre and pto plugs. Seems like the two cylinders mentioned are getting way to much oil. Machine will not rev past 3000. It came with a new cdi which I installed and had to order the 505 unit which is also now installed. Carbs were off the machine when I got it and was told that they were cleaned and rebuilt but I opened them up anyways to have a look. Put everything back together and this problem has been plaguing me ever since. Looking for any ideas as to what's going on with this thing before I just tear it apart. Did a compression test all cylinders are at 148 psi. Accelerator pump is working getting spark on all three plugs just doesn't want to rev. Thanks in advance for any info


  2. #2
    Is it possible they blew the ball out of the oil nipples?

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Check some basics.

    Pulse hoses connected correctly to the carburetors?

    Carburetors in the correct locations? Front and rearmost carbs have fuel pumps, center carb does not.

    Correct spark plugs installed?

    Ignition coil wires connected to the correct cylinders? Remove center and ear spark plug wires. Start engine using only the front cylinder. It should start and run, roughly. May need a bit of throttle to keep it going.

    Shut it off, disconnect front plug and connect center spark plug. Start and run engine again. Now move to the rear cylinder. Test again. The engine should run about the same on any single cylinder. If it does not run on one particular cylinder or another, someone is wrong.

    If all the above is good, check the intake reeds for damage.

    When the engine is running is there any warning message on the display?

    Possible but unlikely is that the crankshaft is twisted out of index.

  4. #4
    Replaced the pulse lines when I changed the lines they are good the carb rack hasn't been apart I opened up each carb still on the rack. I had br9es plugs in it went through 2 sets already and one set of bpr9es I just tried a set of hotter plugs bpr8es still no change. Going to try pulling the wires and see what happens. It seems to me like the centre and rear cylinders are getting to much oil. Plugs come out black and covered in soot it wipes right off but after a few tries they don't spark anymore. What is the wire order coming out of the electric box? I have it in the same pattern as the cylinders front wire to mag cyl. Centre to centre and rear to pto. That's how it came to me but the box was opened when I got the ski. I have actually been trouble shooting it with your link but it's driving me crazy. My kids want to go tubing and this thing won't cooperate. I actually checked the crank phase and that all seems good too. Going to the garage in a little while to see how it runs with the caps off like you say and most likely check the reeds to. Thanks for the help

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thinice77 View Post
    ... What is the wire order coming out of the electric box?

    .... Going to the garage in a little while to see how it runs with the caps off like you say and most likely check the reeds to. Thanks for the help
    Do the one cylinder at a time check. That will tell you if you have the right spark plug wires on the right cylinders.

    It will also tell you if one or more carburetors are way out of whack and delivering too much or too little fuel.

    It is possible but unlikely that the oil system is over delivering to specific cylinders. Each oil feed nipple at the engine has a check ball valve that is supposed to open only when under pressure from the oil pump (so only when engine is running). Sometimes the ball in a valve gets stuck in the open or closed position.

    Is it possible there is an excessive amount of oil accumulated inside the crankcase? Remove all spark plugs, lay a cloth over the spark plug holes. Crank engine. There should be minimal or no spray of oil mist from the engine. If you see liquid oil or lots of heavy mist then perhaps oil has collected inside the engine.

  6. #6
    Is it possible that they used compressed air and blew the check ball right out? Just wondering because they stopped working on it cause they couldn't change the cdi but somehow managed to take the carbs off and "rebuild" them

  7. #7
    I actually tested the electronics the other day and both the new cdi and old one have the same resistance but it was the 505 that went on it

  8. #8
    Rear pulse line is full of fuel. Will not start or run except off front cylinder. Pulling carbs off again. Going to have to find rebuild kits I guess

  9. #9
    The rear pulse line keeps filling with black fuel and oil. I just finished rebuilding the carbs and fuel pumps but am still not getting the middle and rear cylinders to fire. Anyone have any ideas as I am no completely stumped as to what's going on with this thing. Things I have checked already are. Cleaned fuel tank. Replaced fuel lines. Rebuilt carbs fresh set of br9es. New pulse lines. New battery new cdi and 505 unit. All cylinders are in the 140-145 psi range. Has fresh gas and oil all plugs are firing but I'm not sure if the plug wires are in the correct spots on the coil pack have them set up the same order as cylinders.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Genuine OEM carb rebuild kits?

    The pulse hoses should be sloped upwards to the carb mounted fuel pumps, so no place for liquids to pool inside. Are the pulse hoses too long and drooping down below the crankcase fittings?

    Are you sure you have the pulse hose on the correct carb nipple?

    To confirm spark plug wire order, simply remove the center and PTO spark plug wires. Ground the wire ends, then attempt to start the engine just using the front MAG cylinder. It should start and run roughly, but may need a MIT of throttle squeeze to keep it going.

    Now unplug and ground the front spark plug wire, then reconnect just the center spark plug. Again start the engine. if it starts, then move on and do the same test with the PTO cylinder only.

    If you have the correct plug wires on the correct cylinders the engine will run equally (roughly) on each individual cylinder.

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