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  1. #1

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    Msx 140 nearly sank while out on the water

    Fortunately this was noticed while we were right next to the dock after coming in from a ride. I think a little bit of water got into the air intake causing the engine to run funky and subsequently shut off. Took the seat off and saw the water filled about 1/2 of the hull, just below the battery terminals and air intake. I beached the ski and took out the battery first, then got my bro to help me pull it onto the drive up dock.

    After I drained the water out I removed the spark plugs, air intake flame arrestor, water cooling manifold, and fuel injectors to assist in drying out the cylinders, spark plugs looked dry and slightly dark (so none of the cylinders filled with water). I think the engine is okay but I am worried about how the water got into the hull? Before I opened the drain plugs when we first got the ski out of the water, I could hear water draining out and hitting the jut pump housing or rideplate/intake grate.

    That indicates to me either thru-hull fitting for the driveshaft or the cooling water intake.... Any thoughts or suggestions?


    Regarding the engine: I'm thinking it should be okay, I was going to spray fogging oil into the cylinders and rotate the engine by hand to keep the pistons free since there is a risk of corrosion with water that got in at least one of the cylinders. This is the first time this has happened so if anyone knows of something else I can do or look at, I'd appreciate it!


  2. #2

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    put it all back together but dont put the plugs back in.leave the plugs in the plug wires and ground them to the block and cover top of engine with a rag.crank the engine to see if there is any water that comes out.if no water put plugs back in and start it.check your thru hull bearing to see if the water is coming in there

  3. #3
    David Drkvampire2001's Avatar
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    another easy way to see where water is leaking in, well. put a hose in the ski and fill it , making sure not to cover the intake manifold. or the battery. put it on a hill. only a few places water could come in, now with that ammt of water makes me wodner if infact a hose was leaking.

  4. #4

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    Yeah I was thinking that a water inlet hose could have come loose of its fitting, and when I had the ski on the dock, the water could have been draining back through the open hose and come out the water inlet.

  5. #5
    David Drkvampire2001's Avatar
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    in order to find that, strap it to a trailer, back into the water, and run it, on the trailer, take the seat off and look, Rev it up. let it idle. look for a hose with water flowing out of it. with it on the trailer, in the water you can run it as long as youd like. best and easiest way to find a leak with engine running.

  6. #6
    Been around for years...seen it all Kawi-Guy's Avatar
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    probably coming in through the place the drive shaft comes into the hull, the thru hull shaft bearing. This is common for a used msx140.
    Happened to mine.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky-Guy View Post
    probably coming in through the place the drive shaft comes into the hull, the thru hull shaft bearing. This is common for a used msx140.
    Happened to mine.
    Yeah I had suspected that. I put the injectors back in, reinstalled the battery, left the plugs opened and turned the engine over a few times, saw a little bit of moisture fly out of one of the cylinders but was otherwise dry. Reinstalled the plugs and the engine fired right up and sounded like normal.

    I also looked at the bilge siphons and saw that both were really crudded up with stuff, took those out and cleaned them until I could see through the screens and reinstalled.

    On thing I did find was that when I took off the drive shaft coupler cover, there was a metal ring with a metal washer and some rubber washers on the drive shaft but were loose and could be freely moved on the exposed shaft.... I also found what looked to be 1/4th of some other metal ring fitting that appeared to go around the shaft, in the bottom of the hull (I couldn't find the rest of it). I don't have a picture of the piece, but here is a picture of the drive shaft coupler area with all the loose washers in the center. I am thinking that the bearing carrier may have to replaced if those pieces were apart of that assembly...

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Makon View Post
    ... when I took off the drive shaft coupler cover, there was a metal ring with a metal washer and some rubber washers on the drive shaft but were loose and could be freely moved on the exposed shaft.... I also found what looked to be 1/4th of some other metal ring fitting that appeared to go around the shaft, in the bottom of the hull (I couldn't find the rest of it). I don't have a picture of the piece, but here is a picture of the drive shaft coupler area with all the loose washers in the center. I am thinking that the bearing carrier may have to replaced if those pieces were apart of that assembly...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The seal has completely come apart there, and likely the bearing itself.

    The MSX bearing carrier can be rebuilt using generic parts. New bearing plus new seals. These are different than the parts used for the non-MSX through-hull bearings.

    The only tricky part is making sure the rebuilt carrier gets bolted down in exactly the same place it was before, to within fractions of a millimeter. The carrier location affects the alignment of the two parts of the driveshaft.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Makon View Post
    ... when I took off the drive shaft coupler cover, there was a metal ring with a metal washer and some rubber washers on the drive shaft but were loose and could be freely moved on the exposed shaft.... I also found what looked to be 1/4th of some other metal ring fitting that appeared to go around the shaft, in the bottom of the hull (I couldn't find the rest of it). I don't have a picture of the piece, but here is a picture of the drive shaft coupler area with all the loose washers in the center. I am thinking that the bearing carrier may have to replaced if those pieces were apart of that assembly...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1415.jpg 
Views:	99 
Size:	69.1 KB 
ID:	334921
    The seal has completely come apart there, and likely the bearing itself.

    The MSX bearing carrier can be rebuilt using generic parts. New bearing plus new seals. These are different than the parts used for the non-MSX through-hull bearings.

    The only tricky part is making sure the rebuilt carrier gets bolted down in exactly the same place it was before, to within fractions of a millimeter. The carrier location affects the alignment of the two parts of the driveshaft.
    Thanks, looks like I have some work cut out for me. I have never done one of these rebuilds before, I know ill need the following parts, are there additional parts I need?

    -drive shaft / impeller removal tool
    -Bearing Support rebuild kit
    item: 2858113

    -Washer, Thrust
    item: 5133826



    -Gasket, Base, Bearing Support
    item: 5812495

    -Replacement Bearing 6205.

    -inner (front, engine side) seal is 25 x 52 x 10 (substituted with 25x52x7)

    -The two outer (rear, water side) seals are 25x35x10 (substituted with 25x35x7) .


    Thanks guys!

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Makon View Post
    ...

    Thanks, looks like I have some work cut out for me. I have never done one of these rebuilds before, I know ill need the following parts, are there additional parts I need?

    -drive shaft / impeller removal tool
    -Bearing Support rebuild kit
    item: 2858113

    -Washer, Thrust
    item: 5133826


    -Gasket, Base, Bearing Support
    item: 5812495

    -Replacement Bearing 6205.

    -inner (front, engine side) seal is 25 x 52 x 10 (substituted with 25x52x7)

    -The two outer (rear, water side) seals are 25x35x10 (substituted with 25x35x7) .

    Thanks guys!
    The thrust washer should be reusable. It is a stainless steel part.

    You may want to replace the 5412559 rubber 'spider' that fits between the two haves of the drive coupler. Often the molded rubber shape gets distorted over time from the engine power, so a new rubber piece helps ensure everything runs smoothly.

    What I do is coat the replacement rubber spider with silicone spray lube (do not use WD-40 or any petroleum based lubricant). This makes it easier to slide everything together and reduce assembly friction so the rubber edges don't bind and perhaps push the alignment off within the metal fingers.

    Click image for larger version. 

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