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  1. #1
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Some things I have been working on, in no particular order ...

    I will create proper project type threads sometime. In the meantime here are some things that have crossed my workbench.

    Replace C89 capacitor in MSX 140 EMM. Used a radial lead version because it was available locally.

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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Not showing all the steps involved, of course.

    I have yet to find a really slick way to cut and peel away the gel material.

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    I cut the old capacitor leads right at the cap body. This gave me wire stubs to solder the replacement capacitor leads to without messing with the actual circuit board.

    Old cap rolled over to show label and polarization.

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    No sealant yet, just screwed back together for testing.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Added a second pisser to the MSX 140. The first one is on the right hand side. This one is on the left side.

    Both are on the outer edge of the top deck, adjacent to where the traction mat area rises the most. This is where there is the most room underneath to actually get at the fitting and do the install. Hole was drilled from the outside.

    Then the floatation foam inside the hull needed to be cut away to provide access. I used a Weller soldering gun with a 12 AWG wire loop. The wire loop was shaped to create a hot wire cutter. Then the wire was passed through the 1/2" hole to outside the hull. Bend and connect the wires to the Weller. Turn on the heat, then slowly pull the wire loop through the foam. Took maybe 20 minutes. Left a fairly smooth surface where the wire melted its way through.

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    The pisser threads did not quite reach through the fiberglass hull thickness, so I had to grind a shallow pocket in the inside surface to recess the retaining nut. I used a Dremel type grind stone. Pushed it through the hole from the inside, grabbed it with my power drill chuck. Spin the grinding stone and apply some pulling tension on the tool shaft. A few minutes later I had a nice depression for the pisser nut to fit into.

    The cooling water flow for the EMM has been separated from the water flow through the flywheel cover water jacket. The water flow through the flywheel cover now exits via the left side pisser instead of the factory configuration where the now-warm water would then go into the EMM.

    The EMM now has its own separate cooling water feed direct from the jet pump. EMM water exit goes out the right side pisser.
    Last edited by K447; 07-08-2014 at 08:36 AM.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow MSX 140 automatic bilge pump wiring, custom wire harness using LR-503

    I wanted to add a bilge pump to the MSX 140, but without cutting or modifying the factory wire harness.

    This custom add-on wire harness provides normal Polaris style bilge pump operation, including automatic operation whenever the engine is running and manual Bilge pump operation via the Mode button on the handlebar. Holding the Mode button down forces the bilge pump to run when the engine is off.

    I also wanted to prevent the MSX 140 Start button from engaging the starter motor when the engine was already running. On the Virage and Genesis models the single Start/Stop button ensures the starter cannot be engaged when the engine is running.

    On the stock MSX 140 there is no interlock. If you press Start the starter will engage, even if engine is currently running.

    This add-on wire harness utilizes the same LR-503 Start/Stop module found in the 2002-2004 Virage and Genesis. It is wired slightly differently, of course.


    This is it when nearly finished.
    The two connectors at top left will connect into the wire harness at the hood hinge. This is where the RPM and Mode button signals come from to feed the LR-503 module.


    Lower right is the connector intercept for the start solenoid. The ring terminal gets 12 volt power from the solenoid battery cable stud.


    Top right is the actual LR-503 module. This will be fitted into the same slot in the flotation foam near the battery where the factory ESP module is wedged.



    I used the same fuse mounting method found in other 2002+ Polaris wire harnesses. The fuses are inside a wire splice connector. The isolating diode for the Mode button to power the bilge pump is also in there.

    Note: I used a 6A05 diode, rated for 6 amps with 50 volts reverse voltage. That is more than enough amp capacity to handle a 500gph Rule 25D bilge pump (which uses about 2.5 amps).




    There was room in the black wire splice block to hold a spare fuse. Labeled so I can find it when needed

    When this is installed it should all look factory original. Except for the blue zip ties and the bilge pump itself
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    Last edited by K447; 05-18-2016 at 10:46 AM.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I harvested most of the connectors and splice blocks from parted out wire harnesses of other Virage, Genesis and MSX 140. Some connectors are only found on certain models, such as the MetriPack connectors found near the MSX 140 hood hinge.

    The female mating connector for the solenoid coil took a bit of hunting to source.
    GM Delphi / Packard - 2-way GT 150 3.5mm centerline (sensor side) sealed connector Kit for CLT/VSS

    I also tried to maintain the factory wire color assignments, including the trace colors. Makes it easier to do debugging and diagnostics, should the need arise. I have worked on stuff where most of the wires are the same few colors (or all black ) and it can make you crazy trying to trace circuits and figure out what goes where!
    Last edited by K447; 07-08-2014 at 08:49 AM.

  6. #6
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    Some nice quality work happening there.

  7. #7
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  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kosh View Post
    Some nice quality work happening there.
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    Between heavy rainstorms I managed to install the add-on wire harness in the MSX 140. If it wasn't dark here already I would post some photos of the finished install.

    Bilge pump now works, automatic (LR-503 Orange output) and manual modes. This was the main objective of the project.

    The Start button no longer engages the starter motor if the engine is already running (LR-503 works nicely for this)

    If the new stuff ever malfunctions I can revert to stock wiring by simply swapping connectors at the solenoid and front compartment. The new wiring only touches the stock wiring at three points.

  9. #9

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    On electrolytic capcitors sometimes you can tell they are bad by looking at the plastic around the top of the cap. If it looks like it has shrunk, it is probably bad.

    Love the spare fuse idea!

  10. #10
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    I did mine a little differently. I spliced into the orange/black wire at the hood harness and ran the wire to the back near the battery in the loom. I did the same for the yellow wire neat the battery area. Those are the only 2 connections to the wire harness. I used single pin weatherpack connectors. If I were to remove what I have added the only evidence would be the 2 unused plugs. The rest is plug and play separate from the w
    Ski wiring. I used a waterproof inline blade fuse holder for the bilge pump. Just some other ideas for people who may not be able to source the pieces Keith used.

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