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  1. #1
    Bdesim's Avatar
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    97 slt700 only starts after sitting for a while

    Hey everyone. Beware of this long post but I'm stumped. I know my problem is most likely electrical but I've run out of things to try.

    I recently acquired a 97 slt 700. Needed a top end. Rebuilt too end. Took out the ski and she fired up but it was hard starting. I had 120 compression both holes after rebuild. Ran for about an hour. Ran perfectly no issues. Shut off to do a cool down before finishing break in on the motor and it would not restart. Compression still 120 both holes. Checked the obvious. Spark is good. Tested cdi brown wire and got 9.2 volts.

    Tested stator and each test passed both ohm tests and Hall effect sensor tests.

    I tried even squirting a little gas down the carb throats and still no go. It will only start after sitting for awhile.

    I thought maybe a stator ? When it gets warm it cannot ohm to spec anymore and it fails and will not allow the cdi to give strong spark. Cdi is good it works in another watercraft with no issues.

    I checked the coil and even swapped it same issue.

    Ski runs awesome when it starts first time and will go all day unless you shut it off.

    Has anyone had any issues like this?

    Electronics are gen 1 non updated.

    Let me know if u have any ideas.

    Thanks in advance
    Brian


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bdesim View Post
    ...
    I thought maybe a stator ? When it gets warm it cannot ohm to spec anymore and it fails and will not allow the cdi to give strong spark. Cdi is good it works in another watercraft with no issues.

    ...
    The stator actually measure bad when it is warm, or are you speculating that it might be going bad when it gets warm?

    Read up on Service Bulletin PWC-00-05. This directly addresses a well known no-warm start condition by rerouting the power feed wire for the CDI.

    Note that the LR voltage regulator module must be 100% good or this wiring change will not work.

  3. #3
    Bdesim's Avatar
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    This was me speculating. I'm actually testing that as we speak.

    That service bulletin takes the red/purple and moves it from the board to the orange spot correct ?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bdesim View Post
    ...

    That service bulletin takes the red/purple and moves it from the board to the orange spot correct ?
    You have to construct a short adapter wire. Bullet connector on one end to mate with the CDI Red/Purple wire (and just that CDI wire, no others are changed) with female tab crimp connector on the other end to fit onto the Orange tab terminal.

  5. #5
    Bdesim's Avatar
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    I did this test and no good.

    My stator has 1200 ohms and 92 when warm on the excited coils. Both Hall effect sensors are open loop without the black wire connected to the battery

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bdesim View Post
    I did this test and no good.

    My stator has 1200 ohms and 92 when warm on the excited coils.

    Both Hall effect sensors are open loop without the black wire connected to the battery
    You sure you are testing the Hall Effect sensors correctly? It can be tricky since the crankshaft must be turned slowly by hand while watching the ohm meter, all while powering it with a 9 Volt battery.

    And the polarities all need to be correct during the test.

  7. #7
    Bdesim's Avatar
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    Here's what I'm doing:
    Black ground from stator to negative of 9volt. Positive side of 9 volt to brown wire. Multimeter is measuring between black wire (negative) and the purple wire. Then I test black to grey with multimeter. Slowly rotating the engine via the pto coupler until the polarities line up. Is this correct ?

  8. #8
    Bdesim's Avatar
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    Tests with warm stator:
    Green and red to ground = OL
    Purple to ground with 9 volt in place = bouncing between 760 ohms and 1500 ohms.
    Grey to ground with 9 by in place. Bouncing between 92 ohms and 160 ohms

    Does this confirm my when warm stator is bad theory?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bdesim View Post
    Here's what I'm doing:
    Black ground from stator to negative of 9volt. Positive side of 9 volt to brown wire. Multimeter is measuring between black wire (negative) and the purple wire. Then I test black to grey with multimeter. Slowly rotating the engine via the pto coupler until the polarities line up. Is this correct ?
    See this post;
    Testing the Magneto stator Hall Effect sensors

    Only one ohmmeter is needed.

  10. #10
    Bdesim's Avatar
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    Sorry I should have been more specific. I was using one ohm meter and I performed the test as described in your signature links. The same link you listed above. My stator seems to be at about 760 ohms on the purple wire which is supposed to be 1200 ohms. The other tests are ok.

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