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  1. #1

    Water in oil tank, 2005 Waverunner FX HO

    Hi-

    I purchased a 2005 FX HO recently. Test rode it for 30 minutes. ~55 mph and ~10,000 rpm.
    Sat for a couple of weeks, and then took it out last weekend. Rode fine for 15 minutes then got slower and slower. Had to limp it back to the dock at 5 mph. No engine warning lights or beeps. Checked the oil, and there was white/gray cream almost to the top of the oil tank, and white oil around the intake boots - air cleaner housing. It had not been flipped or the oil tank overfilled.

    Checked the compression. About 100 psi on all four cylinders. Plugs were clean. A couple of tiny moisture droplets on one of the plugs from maybe some steam from the oil/water evaporating in the cylinder?
    Pumped out about 2.5 quarts of oil. Refilled with oil only to the bottom of the dipstick. Started cold engine. Turned on hose. Ran for 20-30 seconds. Shut off the hose. Stopped the engine. Removed oil cap and white oil overflowed the top of the tank, and started to flow out of the breather near the air intakes. There is pitting/corrosion in the thermostat housing, and some rusted spring hose clamps on the engine (saltwater use). No oil in the bilge area, but I did see a small amount of sand that came back after I cleaned it out. Engine has 70 hours on it. Starts and revs good with no strange noises.

    Could corrosion have eaten through somewhere in the oil tank/cooler passages? I would think if it was the head gasket I would be seeing exhaust gasses fizzing in the oil tank? Or is there a place where the head gasket separates an oil cooling passage from a water cooling passage?

    I am not that familiar with this engine, and would appreciate any diagnostic help. Hoping not to have to pull the head, and find out its the oil tank or some other passage that corroded through...

    Thanks,
    Mark


  2. #2

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    re:

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkM View Post
    Hi-

    I purchased a 2005 FX HO recently. Test rode it for 30 minutes. ~55 mph and ~10,000 rpm.
    Sat for a couple of weeks, and then took it out last weekend. Rode fine for 15 minutes then got slower and slower. Had to limp it back to the dock at 5 mph. No engine warning lights or beeps. Checked the oil, and there was white/gray cream almost to the top of the oil tank, and white oil around the intake boots - air cleaner housing. It had not been flipped or the oil tank overfilled.

    Checked the compression. About 100 psi on all four cylinders. Plugs were clean. A couple of tiny moisture droplets on one of the plugs from maybe some steam from the oil/water evaporating in the cylinder?
    Pumped out about 2.5 quarts of oil. Refilled with oil only to the bottom of the dipstick. Started cold engine. Turned on hose. Ran for 20-30 seconds. Shut off the hose. Stopped the engine. Removed oil cap and white oil overflowed the top of the tank, and started to flow out of the breather near the air intakes. There is pitting/corrosion in the thermostat housing, and some rusted spring hose clamps on the engine (saltwater use). No oil in the bilge area, but I did see a small amount of sand that came back after I cleaned it out. Engine has 70 hours on it. Starts and revs good with no strange noises.

    Could corrosion have eaten through somewhere in the oil tank/cooler passages? I would think if it was the head gasket I would be seeing exhaust gasses fizzing in the oil tank? Or is there a place where the head gasket separates an oil cooling passage from a water cooling passage?

    I am not that familiar with this engine, and would appreciate any diagnostic help. Hoping not to have to pull the head, and find out its the oil tank or some other passage that corroded through...

    Thanks,
    Mark
    Mark,

    Your ski has a dry sump system and hopefully is just overserviced...First pump out 2 quarts or whatever you can get out. With the oil cap off crank the unit (dont not let run longer than 1 minute) and oil/water mix should re-fill the tank. Again pump down the oil/water out again... Ensure your allowing enough time for the engine to remain cool. Now you should now be at the correct oil level.... **NOTICE** I didnt say turn the water on to the engine. This is because you need to ensure water isnt getting sucked back into the engine...and creating this problem. You'll more than likely have to repeat this process 3 to 4 times until oil becomes clear... Once your oil is clear and at the proper level crank the engine with the flush out and water on... with the oil cap off monitor the condition and level of the oil. If the oil starts to rise within the tank or starts turning white shut down the engine... From here you'll have to find the internal water leak...

    Hope this helps

  3. #3
    Thanks mjet. Good news so far. I pumped out a couple of quarts with hand pump (need to get the big Mityvac), then refilled. Repeated once more, and then ran it on the hose. The level did not rise. I am guessing that after I first got the waverunner, I shut the motor off with the hose running for a minute, and added maybe a few ounces of water to the oil tank level. Then when I took it on the lake and got it hot, it expanded, overflowed and burped through the breather, soaking the air filter, etc. What is "the path" for hose water getting into the oil tank when the engine is off, vs. on? I also read that you have to clamp off the water inlet at the Y fitting if you are going to be towed.

    [Doing some forum reading, it looks like if you leave the hose on after stopping the engine, the water jacket in the exhaust can fill up with water (not sure why it just doesn't continue out the exhaust), and then enter an open exhaust valve (no exhaust pressure to keep it out). Same thing with towing. No exhaust pressure to keep out the water being forced in (not sure how it goes forward towards the engine thru the exhaust at the back). I think rolling it the opposite direction of the filter scoop can introduce water thru the intake manifold and do the same. Anyone chime in here to correction my assumptions].
    Last edited by MarkM; 07-10-2014 at 04:50 PM.

  4. #4
    oxcrnixo's Avatar
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    Bad head gasket

  5. #5

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    re

    Quote Originally Posted by oxcrnixo View Post
    Bad head gasket
    yes could be bad head gasket. Also a crack, gasket and or corroded exhaust piece.

  6. #6

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    re

    Quote Originally Posted by oxcrnixo View Post
    Bad head gasket
    yes could be bad head gasket. Also a crack, gasket and or corroded exhaust piece. Was it a salt water unti

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  8. #7
    oxcrnixo's Avatar
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    true
    Quote Originally Posted by mjet View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by oxcrnixo View Post
    Bad head gasket
    yes could be bad head gasket. Also a crack, gasket and or corroded exhaust piece. Was it a salt water unti

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