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  1. #1

    2002 Virage 1200 TXi - first post and problem PLEASE HELP

    Hello all, I just wanted to introduce myself to what will hopefully become a new hobby.

    I've been an avid dirt bike, snowmobile, and diesel truck enthusiast for some time now but have been given a great opportunity to get into jet skis recently. I was more or less given a 2002 Virage txi 1200 for free from my girlfriends father who no longer has a use for it and who is just plain not interested in trying to get it repaired.

    The Problem:
    2 years ago (summer 2012) the jet ski began to have issues. It would start up and idle and leave the shore under WOT with what felt like full power. The ski would get up on plane and continue at speed for roughly 100 yards at which time it would cough/sputter/ die out and coast to a stop at idle with a flashing check engine light (I do not know what fault code it set as I can't find a shop that still has digital wrench software) . At this point attempting to apply throttle would cause the ski to stumble/fall on its face/run poorly. Shutting the engine off and restarting would start this cycle again. This was late in the summer and the ski was winterized and stored in this state.

    The ski sat unused for all of 2013 summer.

    ... And here we are today.

    My Plan:

    From what I have read the following items should be the first things I look into and I plan to look into them in this order.
    1. New fully charged battery. Last weekend on attempt to pull the ski out to replicate the problem to remind myself of the symptoms I found out the battery was bad with an open cell. I'm assuming this went bad sitting for a year and a half.
    2. Going to check for fuel pressure regulator presence on the fuel return side in the tank which I've heard has a tendency to fall off into the bottom of the tank
    3. Going to try to get a fuel pressure gauge built up to read fuel pressure during this phenomenon at the Schrader valve
    4. I will be heading north with a NEW tps sensor in hand to test against the tps in the ski now
    5. If all this fails pull the emm and send to dfi technologies for test

    What do you guys think?
    Last edited by K447; 05-02-2015 at 01:53 PM.


  2. #2
    Removing double post
    Last edited by husky9; 07-09-2014 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Double post

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    You have been doing some homework, which is excellent!

    I think you have a handle on the likely problem causes.

    Read how to bypass the LR-503 Start/Stop module. Sometimes this can cause weird problems, so bypassing it can be useful for diagnostic purposes. How the bypass is done depends on which model year the machine is.

    Also take a compression tester. All spark plugs out, throttle held wide open.

    And take a set of new spark plugs, NGK PZFR6H only, no substitutes. These engines are sensitive to spark plugs and an old set of plugs can cause poor engine running, even if the plugs still look good.

    Examine or even better remove and clean the various engine ground connections. There is a large one on the engine left rear and another near the ignition coils. Each coil has a ground tab.

    Make sure the exhaust temp sensor is not damaged or frayed wires.

    The intake air temp sensor sometimes gets cut from the plastic cover internal web. Trim the plastic back so it cannot touch the temp sensor.

    Take a decent quality multimeter with you.
    Ohm check all the sensors, just to have a baseline for future reference. CPS, exhaust temp and air intake temp sensors.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    You have been doing some homework, which is excellent!

    I think you have a handle on the likely problem causes.

    Read how to bypass the LR-503 Start/Stop module. Sometimes this can cause weird problems, so bypassing it can be useful for diagnostic purposes. How the bypass is done depends on which model year the machine is.

    Also take a compression tester. All spark plugs out, throttle held wide open.

    And take a set of new spark plugs, NGK PZFR6H only, no substitutes. These engines are sensitive to spark plugs and an old set of plugs can cause poor engine running, even if the plugs still look good.

    Examine or even better remove and clean the various engine ground connections. There is a large one on the engine left rear and another near the ignition coils. Each coil has a ground tab.

    Make sure the exhaust temp sensor is not damaged or frayed wires.

    The intake air temp sensor sometimes gets cut from the plastic cover internal web. Trim the plastic back so it cannot touch the temp sensor.

    Take a decent quality multimeter with you.
    Ohm check all the sensors, just to have a baseline for future reference. CPS, exhaust temp and air intake temp sensors.
    Thanks K447 for the input!

    Adding to my list the following:

    - bring a fresh set of plugs, only use the part number pasted in your response PZFR6H
    - show up prepared to BYPASS start stop module (and understand what that actually means lol)
    - bring electrical contact cleaner, carefully remove and thoroughly clean all grounds
    - give all wiring a general once over for cuts, splits, cracks, or corrosion

    This generates a couple new questions

    Would it be a bad idea to hit all electrical connections with a dab of dielectric grease?

    Does anyone out there have a picture, parts list or part number of a fuel pressure test setup they have used?

    What kind of fuel pressure should I be looking for at idle? WOT?

    Should I be aware of any specific requirements on batteries? Appears to be basically a motorcycle battery, I was planning on something along these lines...

    http://www.shopsbt.com/jet-ski-batte...p-gtx-gts.html

    Lastly, can someone confirm this is the correct pn for a tps sensor?

    http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/...2740-part.html

  5. #5
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    That is the correct part number for the TPS.

    Get a Deka AGM battery. There isn't a better one out there.

    I bought a fuel pressure gauge from Advance Auto. Works perfectly and under 50 bucks. You are looking for between 20 and 30 PSI.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    That is the correct part number for the TPS.

    Get a Deka AGM battery. There isn't a better one out there.
    or get a stark power.. i've had no issues out of it, plus the CCA/AH on it is amazing..just costs a bit more

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    That is the correct part number for the TPS.

    Get a Deka AGM battery. There isn't a better one out there.

    I bought a fuel pressure gauge from Advance Auto. Works perfectly and under 50 bucks. You are looking for between 20 and 30 PSI.
    Thanks for the reply BryanP.

    Did you look at this gauge while riding at load or do I only need to check at idle?

  8. #8
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    Just check fuel pressure at idle. It doesnt really change. Its an electric fuel pump and pressure stays constant.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Dielectric grease does not enhance electrical contacts. It is a corrosion protection thing.

    Apply dielectric grease as needed to keep moisture away from contacts, but do this only after you have completed the troubleshooting. Adding dielectric grease to stuff while you are still poking around and testing just makes for sticky fingers and general messiness.

    Take some sandpaper and wire brush for cleaning ground bolts and surface corrosion.

    If you want to be able to read EMM trouble codes then read how to make a simple LED tester.

    A few bits of solid #14 copper wire can be useful as diagnostic jumpers. To clear old trouble codes it is better to uses a SPDT (3-way) switch rather than just a wire jumper.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    Just check fuel pressure at idle. It doesnt really change. Its an electric fuel pump and pressure stays constant.
    Thanks again BryanP, this will be much easier than trying to get something rigged up to read fuel pressure while running across the lake! Glad I asked!

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