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  1. #1

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    Voltage leak 1999 Genesis

    I must be missing something real obvious here. I have a 1999 Genesis, carbed. There appears to be a voltage leak, diminishing the battery down to less than 5 volts within a 12-18 hour period. I noticed I get close to full battery voltage thru the engine block at all times. For example, when the battery is installed, if I place my + meter lead on the engine and the - meter lead on the engine, I get nearly full battery voltage. Is this normal?? I did finally replace the solenoid this year (it was the old style). No change. The start/stop button engages the starter correctly, but once the voltage drops too low, the cranking of course stops. Can someone offer some suggestions one what to check next?


  2. #2
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    I would check the battery itself. It may be bad

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    I must be missing something real obvious here. I have a 1999 Genesis, carbed. There appears to be a voltage leak, diminishing the battery down to less than 5 volts within a 12-18 hour period.

    I noticed I get close to full battery voltage thru the engine block at all times. For example, when the battery is installed, if I place my + meter lead on the engine and the - meter lead on the engine, I get nearly full battery voltage. Is this normal?? ...

    The start/stop button engages the starter correctly, but once the voltage drops too low, the cranking of course stops...
    Your test description does not make sense. Both meter proves are on the engine block?

    Where exactly are you measuring these voltages?

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the quick responses:
    1) I was suspect of my old battery, so have been conducting my testing using a full size, deep cycle battery, with more than enough capacity. This large battery works perfectly fine on another boat. I did purchase an Odessy PC625, which I'll install once I correct this leakage problem.
    2) K447--sorry, I had a typo. After I connect the above battery, the MFD powers-up as normal. When I touch the (-) meter lead to the (-) battery, then place the (+) meter lead to the engine block, I am getting ~12 volts (when the battery is fully charged). I can't say I have ever noticed this before and it doesn't seem right to me.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    ...
    2) K447--sorry, I had a typo. After I connect the above battery, the MFD powers-up as normal.

    When I touch the (-) meter lead to the (-) battery, then place the (+) meter lead to the engine block, I am getting ~12 volts (when the battery is fully charged).

    I can't say I have ever noticed this before and it doesn't seem right to me.
    Since you are connecting a larger temporary battery, I can only guess how you are hooking it up.

    If you are connecting the battery to the OEM battery cables then my first suspicion is the connection at the engine for the battery negative cable. Remove the bolt, clean and inspect the cable end. Make sure the bolt, the engine bolt hole and the cable end are all clean metal to metal contact.

    Check the negative battery cable while it is disconnected for zero ohms end to end, even when flexing the cable.

  6. #6

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    1) Removed neg battery cable from hull. Resistance .200 ohms (at 200 scale), even when flexing the cable. I re-cleaned the cable and engine connection point on block and re-attached cable.
    2) I connected my new Odessy PC625 battery. Voltage prior to connection was 12.5 volts. After connection, 11.9 volts.
    3) I also get 11.9 volts at the top lug on the solenoid (as expected). No voltage on the bottom lug of solenoid (as expected).
    4) I also get 11.9 volts when placing the + meter lead on the + battery terminal and the - meter lead on any solid engine ground. This doesn't seem right to me.

    I did crank the engine (without lanyard affixed). It turns over, but noticed the cranking isn't completely steady. Almost seems like the start/stop button is sensitive. I then energized the starter by jumping the solenoid with a screw driver and the engine cranks strong, steady and normal.
    What should I try next?

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    If the solenoid is original, these are known to corrode internally and fail. Original is black body with metal backing plate.

    New replacement solenoids are all plastic including the mounting plate.

    If still original replace it. If it fails while you are on the water it can burn out the starter motor and/or leave you stranded.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    1) Removed neg battery cable from hull. Resistance .200 ohms (at 200 scale), even when flexing the cable. I re-cleaned the cable and engine connection point on block and re-attached cable.
    Did you also flex the battery end of the cable?

    2) I connected my new Odessy PC625 battery. Voltage prior to connection was 12.5 volts. After connection, 11.9 volts.
    The measured battery voltage should not change just from connecting the battery to the battery cables. Something is wrong.

    3) I also get 11.9 volts at the top lug on the solenoid (as expected). No voltage on the bottom lug of solenoid (as expected).

    4) I also get 11.9 volts when placing the + meter lead on the + battery terminal and the - meter lead on any solid engine ground. This doesn't seem right to me.
    That seems correct to me.
    ...
    All measurements are with the black meter probe on the actual negative battery post, or are some being measured from the cable wire end at the battery?

    Is there a current drain when the battery is connected? Set your meter to Amps and connect it between the negative battery post and the end of the negative battery cable. After an initial tiny spark the current flow should be just above zero, maybe a few dozen milliAmps (from the MFI display).

    If you unplug the connector from the back of the display the measured current flow from the battery should drop very very close to zero milliAmps.

  9. #9

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    OK--Definately not the neg battery cable. I removed it again, checked resistance, bending cable and it still checks low. I did notice a "clunk" noise whenever I reconnect the battery. I then discovered this noise is coming from the magneto. When I disconnect the plug leading to the magneto, I hear a faint thunk and notice the battery drain disappears. It's the magneto causing the ~.5 voltage drain. I managed to get the motor started today, but it didn't run smoothly. This is the first run of the year, so it naturally smoked more than normal (fogged last year). I drove the ski around, at varying speeds but the roughness/skipping never went away. The MFD was erratic, fluctuating voltage and the entire unit would re-start every few seconds. Then after about 10 minutes, the engine turned-off. I tried to re-start, but no luck. This was somewhat embarrasing, as my 2 daughters had hopped-on for a quick ride! This sounds like some damaged wires inside the magneto. What is my best approach to complete my diagnosis?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CJC View Post
    OK--Definately not the neg battery cable. I removed it again, checked resistance, bending cable and it still checks low. I did notice a "clunk" noise whenever I reconnect the battery. I then discovered this noise is coming from the magneto. When I disconnect the plug leading to the magneto, I hear a faint thunk and notice the battery drain disappears. It's the magneto causing the ~.5 voltage drain. I managed to get the motor started today, but it didn't run smoothly. This is the first run of the year, so it naturally smoked more than normal (fogged last year). I drove the ski around, at varying speeds but the roughness/skipping never went away.

    The MFD was erratic, fluctuating voltage and the entire unit would re-start every few seconds.

    Then after about 10 minutes, the engine turned-off. I tried to re-start, but no luck. This was somewhat embarrasing, as my 2 daughters had hopped-on for a quick ride! This sounds like some damaged wires inside the magneto. What is my best approach to complete my diagnosis?
    Until you get the electrical problems resolved, the machine cannot be considered rideable.

    There are a limited number of electrical connections that can affect power to the MFI display. If it is shutting off and restarting then either the ground connection or the power connection (or both) somewhere between battery and display has a problem.

    The stator charging coil should not be able to shut down the display without also killing power to the ignition system. And that would be a near direct short, so seems unlikely given the symptoms.

    I would be tracing every wire and inspecting every splice connection starting at the wire harness coming down from the display and working my way back towards the battery. The problem cause and the answer is in there somewhere, just have to track it down.

    The 1999 Genesis FFI version had known issues with wire harness corrosion, especially in the many black wires. Eventually dealers just starting replacing the entire wire harness under warranty in order to make the electrical gremlins go away. I do not know whether the 1999 Genesis carburetor model had similar issues.

    Regarding the magneto clunk sound and voltage drop when connecting the stator plug, my guess is the LR voltage regulator has failed. Unplug the LR-31 voltage regulator module. You will not have battery charging but the voltage drain (and clunk sound) should go away.

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