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  1. #1

    A few more questions

    Compression cylinders front to back (2 rounds done): 125-125-121.

    Battery is charging and will re-test tomorrow, it won't turn over now all of a sudden.

    Questions:

    What is this hole?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    No gray fuel lines see below, also do I need a cover over my carbs?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    How do I reach to the fuel selector valve, awfully tight fit.

    Then a pic of my ski with trailer paid 1,500$ for it all.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmueller9834 View Post
    Compression cylinders front to back (2 rounds done): 125-125-121.

    Battery is charging and will re-test tomorrow, it won't turn over now all of a sudden.

    Questions:

    What is this hole?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1405044943.291164.jpg 
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    That is the water exit for an electric bilge pump (factory on some models), or someone has relocated the main water exit for the engine.

    No gray fuel lines see below, also do I need a cover over my carbs?
    Cover over the carbs?
    Those are complete flame arrestors with intact wire mesh screens, correct?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I see a giant non-original start solenoid wrapped around the engine!

    How do I reach to the fuel selector valve, awfully tight fit.

    Then a pic of my ski with trailer paid 1,500$ for it all.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks like some non-standard wiring there, at least for the solenoid.

    I am typically wary of non-factory wiring, since quite often it is a hack job.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by dmueller9834 View Post
    Compression cylinders front to back (2 rounds done): 125-125-121.

    Battery is charging and will re-test tomorrow, it won't turn over now all of a sudden.

    Questions:

    What is this hole?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1405044943.291164.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	44.9 KB 
ID:	335426
    That is the water exit for an electric bilge pump (factory on some models), or someone has relocated the main water exit for the engine. So that is ok to have?

    No gray fuel lines see below, also do I need a cover over my carbs?
    Cover over the carbs? I seen some with a cover over the carbs or something, they are intact wires mesh yes, is this all I need. See here for the cover I was speaking of https://www.google.com/search?q=1996+polaris+jetski&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo =u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=DlC_U66aJISfyATfsYH4Cw&ved= 0CCUQsAQ&biw=1600&bih=799#q=1996+polaris+SLX+780&s pell=1&tbm=isch&facrc=_&imgdii=R9oeN3EuesdTBM%3A%3 Bb5Y_zegx2QtgYM%3BR9oeN3EuesdTBM%3A&imgrc=R9oeN3Eu esdTBM%253A%3Bw85rZrptCDQb8M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F www.greenhulk.net%252Fforums%252Fattachment.php%25 3Fattachmentid%253D312598%2526d%253D1378334853%3Bh ttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.greenhulk.net%252Fforums%252 Fshowthread.php%253Ft%253D206162%3B459%3B768

    Those are complete flame arrestors with intact wire mesh screens, correct?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1405044976.164854.jpg 
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    I see a giant non-original start solenoid wrapped around the engine!

    Previous owner put a kill switch there with a key, with an OFF and ON that runs the main power to the engine (like a actual key). He might of done this for security reasons and safety reasons.

    How do I reach to the fuel selector valve, awfully tight fit. Any suggestions here?

    Then a pic of my ski with trailer paid 1,500$ for it all.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1405045044.665208.jpg 
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ID:	335428
    Looks like some non-standard wiring there, at least for the solenoid.

    I am typically wary of non-factory wiring, since quite often it is a hack job.
    I checked over the wiring and it all looked good.

    See my answers in blue, are my compression numbers on average?

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Compression numbers look normal to me.

    Your engine has three individual flame arrestors. Other engine versions have a single large flame arrestor than spans all three carburetors. What you have is just fine as it is, as far as I can tell from the photo.

    The main red battery cables should not in any way be touching or attached to the engine. The engine vibrates, moves around on its mounts when throttle is applied and can get quite hot if the water cooling fails.

    If the insulation on either of those heavy red frays through or the exposed connections touch the engine you can have a severe electrical fire. Right under your ass!

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Compression numbers look normal to me.

    Your engine has three individual flame arrestors. Other engine versions have a single large flame arrestor than spans all three carburetors. What you have is just fine as it is, as far as I can tell from the photo.

    The main red battery cables should not in any way be touching or attached to the engine. The engine vibrates, moves around on its mounts when throttle is applied and can get quite hot if the water cooling fails.

    If the insulation on either of those heavy red frays through or the exposed connections touch the engine you can have a severe electrical fire. Right under your ass!
    Thank you yes it has three individual flame arrestors and all looks well and intact there. As for the fuel lines I don't see any gray wires at all. That means to me they were replaced, checked all lines for cracks or creases and all is well and intact there as well. As the set up currently is, I'm thinking about running to the parts store tomorrow and grabbing some heat wrappings for those lines to protect them.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    If it was me I would delete that heavy switch thing and revert to factory configuration.

    Or simple relocate the current rig to away from the engine. You really do not want heavy red battery cables right up against the engine.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    If it was me I would delete that heavy switch thing and revert to factory configuration.

    Or simple relocate the current rig to away from the engine. You really do not want heavy red battery cables right up against the engine.
    What would be the best way to relocate the current set up? I was looking at it and I'm a little stumped ha, also checked all filters up front and they are in great shape, looked at the top of each piston and no issues there and nice even wear pattern.

  8. #8
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    The 780 motor fresh off a rebuild is at 140 psi per hole. You should be fine with your numbers.

    What exactly are you trying to accomplish when you say "how do I reach the fuel selector valve". Are you trying to remove the lines?

  9. #9
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Nice looking SLX.

    I think what K's getting at is to move the positive battery cable and keyed disconnect switch off the metal of the engine itself... since the engine is grounded and should the cable sheathing wear thru... it's a direct short.

    Reroute that cable over to the side of the hull with the other wires... off the top of the engine.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    The 780 motor fresh off a rebuild is at 140 psi per hole. You should be fine with your numbers.

    What exactly are you trying to accomplish when you say "how do I reach the fuel selector valve". Are you trying to remove the lines?
    Well I was told to replace the fuel selector valve and all fuel lines. I double checked all the fuel lines and they are all bran new marine grade USCG and SAE approved. Fuel bowel up front looks great no junk no nothing. The fuel select valve is an awfully tight fit up against the hull right under the steering. Doesn't the know attach directly to the select valve? Original is a two prong this is a three outlet, I was also informed to block one outlet of with a black nipple cover. I have some pretty fat hands and fingers so it's tough lol. I can't quite get around to undo the lines so I can drop the fuel selector valve inside the hulk when I unscrew it. I just wanted to replace the valves since the line has been replaced.

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