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  1. #1
    Madmike1's Avatar
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    DIY rrfpr question

    I am setting up a DIY rrfpr and was wondering if I could leave out the entire stock fuel pressure regulator from the housing?



    I know the riva kit has a blockoff but I am replacing my stock fuel pump with a walbro and using submersible fuel line to attach to the outlet and will block off the hole where the original fuel pressure regulator fed. It was easy to just pop out the FPR and I don't see any reason to put it back in. Is there anything i'm missing?



    The riva instructions say to just zip tie off the green ground wire that was on the stock fpr, is that ok in this instance also?


  2. #2
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    we put a bolt on the top of the inlet to no longer allow any more fuel from returning/bypassing from there you would have to drill and tap the return line yourself

  3. #3
    Madmike1's Avatar
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    Yep that's how I planned on doing the return, just didn't know if I could leave the whole gray plastic piece in pic 1 out of the housing altogether.

    thanks
    mike

  4. #4
    I've just fitted my RRFPR and didn't have the Riva billet block off or return fuel fitting. I took the OEM regulator apart, removed the ball bearing and springs that provide the pressure onto the ball bearing. Then I passed a bolt through the hole, making sure the head of the bolt wasn't any larger than the diameter of the reg fitting (I used a slim, semi flat domed head bolt). Put a nut on the back side and tightened up. Fitted back into oem location and clipped grey plastic case back on. Works perfect.

    I used a simple metal M12 threaded spiggot for the excess fuel return. Be super careful and sure when you drill plastic top that you can get the nut on the back without it fouling on anything. Also, remember to allow space on the top for that large plastic nut that hold the whole assembly into the fuel tank. It all fits, but there isn't much tolerance to 'wing it'. You need to plan carefully.

    JFI, sure you know, but make sure you line up the cap on the fuel tank when you put the pump back in the tank. If you dont line the marks up on the large tank cap, the fuel gauge wont be correct.

    Green ground wire is only a paperwork safety regulation (metal parts within raw fuel area must be earthed). No problem to zip tie it away or clip it off. Most of our mods have much more potential for problems than that green wire protects us from

  5. #5
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of what my factory regulator looks like after I modded it.

    I left the green (ground) wire connected like OEM.
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  6. #6
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention...

    For a return line, I don't like to let the fuel dump from the top of the fuel assy. IMO; this can cause extra fuel vapors to be created as it sprays into tank when fuel if 3/4 capacity of below. I feel this is even more important since the the newer skis only vent through the gas cap (unlike older skis). I ran a double nipple (thu-hull) fitting and have a fuel line returning to near bottom.

  7. #7
    Madmike1's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the info and explanation... But my question is can that be left out if the ski? I don't see why blocking it off does anything special when it's totally deactivated, why even re-install
    it? Maybe I'm missing something?

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