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  1. #1

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    99 SLTX carb and crank questions

    I picked up a 1999 SLTX over a week ago and have removed the cylinders because the middle piston was blowing 0 compression due to being burnt up. Likely suspect is the Grey Tempo fuel lines I replaced after getting it home, although further investigation is still required to make sure that was the only thing that caused the failure. I've been cleaning the carbs and had a question about the jetting. I've searched the forums but haven't found anything specific to the 99 model year and it seems Polaris monkeyed with the jetting ever other year. I have P-140, C-140, and M-135 mains, and a 65(toward the middle) and 35 (toward the right) for mid and low jets. Is this correct? Am I assuming correctly that the middle jet is the mid and the right jet is the low?

    Since I have the jugs off, I was inspecting the crank rods and noticed a bit of side-to-side play. Is this normal? I could not find a spec for this. If anyone knows what the tolerable play is that would be great. Sorry for the length, just trying to get this thing right before I take the family out with it.


  2. #2
    casey67's Avatar
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    Yes, that is the correct jetting for a 99 1050cc. The jet towards the center is the low jet, towards right side is the mid jet.

    The crank rode side clearance is .0015"-.0018" (inch) with a service limit of .0021"

  3. #3

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    Ok, so I had the low and mid backwards as far which I thought they were. Now, I can check those tolerances to see if they are in spec.
    too much and the bearings need replacing or the rods and bearings?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbonedirector View Post
    I picked up a 1999 SLTX over a week ago ...

    ... trying to get this thing right before I take the family out with it.
    Be sure to complete the ride testing and verify that everything is indeed running as it should before taking any passengers out.

    It is tempting to 'just go out for a few minutes' and then discover something is not right. Not only are passengers a distraction from the testing process, it is much harder to 'check under the seat' while out on the water when there are passengers.

    And if it does fail, it can become a bigger issue with passengers involved.

    Have a rescue/tow watercraft nearby until your testing is fully complete. Read up on how to clamp off the main water feed hose before being towed, or install a shut-off valve.

    Do the initial in-water testing with the hull strapped to the trailer front and rear, backed down the launch ramp. This allows you to run it with the seat off and monitor everything without any risk of sinking or having to swim it back. You can apply throttle, look for water leaks, exhaust leaks, check engine temperatures, etc.

  5. #5

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    Yeah K447 I planned on that, thanks for looking out for me. Besides, my wife won't let our daughter on it until it tested thoroughly. There is a seldom used ramp that I know of that's perfect for those tests. I have done the solo water tests and believe me, it's no fun trying swim while trying to pull a watercraft back to the dock...even if it is only 15 yards. I was pretty wore out when I got it back.

  6. #6

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    Ok checked the clearances, Mag and PTO are within spec but center was at .025".

    Complete rebuild or can I get by with just replacing the bearings and seals?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbonedirector View Post
    Ok checked the clearances, Mag and PTO are within spec but center was at .025".

    Complete rebuild or can I get by with just replacing the bearings and seals?
    Center what is at .025" ?

  8. #8

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    Crank rod at the large end that connects to the shaft.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbonedirector View Post
    Crank rod at the large end that connects to the shaft.
    So there is side to side gap/play that will allow a 25 thou feeler gauge.

    I think that is beyond spec so I would guess the thrust washers are worn thin.

    Polaris crank shafts are pressed together, so changing the crank bearings or thrust washers means rebuilding the crank.

  10. #10

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    Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Are the SBT cranks pretty good or is there another good vendor that won't cost an arm and a leg? I would like to do the rebuild myself but I would have to get a press and for an every now and then mechanic such as myself, I don't know if that would be feasible/cost effective. Plus, I want it done right.

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