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  1. #1
    Spooling's Avatar
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    Kawasaki Ultra-300x Oil Cooler Hoses

    Previously posted in a different thread - which got "side-tracked" - like most Kawasaki Threads here do:

    Quote Originally Posted by sirbreaksalot View Post
    I'll throw a curve ball and say I have seen 2013 300x cooler hose blow in same spot as early hose
    I am wondering if you guys think that I should change these engine oil cooler hoses as a PM measure? If such is the case - maybe someone can define the Kawasaki Part Numbers for those hoses that seem to be "problem" hoses - please.

    I am thinking I will replace them when I "dig-in" to do my 50-Hour Maintenance activities.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    In the above illustration - if the hoses in question are indeed those that I have circled why would it not be best and easiest to simply go to the local Auto Parts Store and procure some Heater Hose - which is probably 5/8" or 3/4" which is certainly readily available.

    As always - Many Thanks !!!


  2. #2
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    1/2" ID push lock gates hose is what I've been using for all water lines along with oetiker clamps on everything

  3. #3
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Good idea to update to the 2014 hoses..
    I "believe " you can remove the back of those hoses easier first by removing the Filter first and just feel around with 6mm socket and mini ratchet or wrench...

    I haven't done them ,maybe others can talk about it

  4. #4
    It's not the SIZE that matters as for the longevity of the hose... as some might think
    But the hose's pressure rating matters the most on this ski.

    Kawi changed the cooling hose spec to higher psi on 13+ model year Ultras.
    So, if you have a 11 or 12 model year 300X, it will be a smart upgrade.

  5. #5
    Spooling's Avatar
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    So Chaz - Is it possible for you to share with us some OEM Updated Kawasaki Part Numbers?

    I have looked at the Illustration and see the following:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Have I identified the hoses correctly?

  6. #6
    Spooling's Avatar
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    I also did a little more "self-educating" and reading about hoses and such used in a "Marine Environment".

    I agree and also think it be best to "shy" away from those offered by the Local Auto Parts Store - in this particular application.

    Reference:

    Engine Raw-Water Hoses
    The engine manufacturer generally installs heavy-duty, fabric-reinforced hoses between the raw-water pump and the heat exchanger (including any oil coolers in the raw-water circuit), up to the point of the water-injection elbow on the exhaust. But, all too often the engine installer will use a light-duty rubber or plastic hose (such as automotive heater hose) to connect the raw-water seacock to the raw-water pump, plumb in a siphon break, and make the connections to a hot-water heater.

    Although heater hose is generally designed to tolerate temperatures as high as 2100F, and pressures to 60 psi, it is relatively thin-walled and soft. If the raw water screen on the outside of the boat or the raw-water filter becomes clogged, the vacuum pulled by the raw-water pump will collapse heater hose, and most other non-wire-reinforced hose, starving the engine of water. What's more, heater hose-primarily because it is thin-walled, has relatively poor abrasion resistance. If the hose is in contact with some part of the engine bed or supporting structures, and is not itself firmly supported, the engine vibrations that are invariably transmitted to the raw-water suction hose will soon cause it to wear through.

    Good-quality marine water hose, on the other hand, is thicker than heater hose, and is reinforced with different synthetic materials, commonly, polyester yarn in two or more layers, or plies.

  7. #7
    nicjak's Avatar
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    The hose from the stator to cooler is the first to go. Changing out the ones you circled isnt a problem use a 1/4 drive ratchet and socket you can actually look down through the manifold to see what you are doing. Hardest part is breaking the seal on the glue.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Spooling View Post
    So Chaz - Is it possible for you to share with us some OEM Updated Kawasaki Part Numbers?
    You asked for it, you've got it.

    ************************************************** *************************************************

    If you are riding hard such as racing or having modified engine, you may want to upgrade the following 2 cooling hoses.

    1. Hose coming from the rear of the motor (stator cover) to the oil cooler lower fitting.

    Kawi has a new/improved replacement P/N 92192-1202.
    If you want to save a few $$, find a hose that will withstand minimum 100 psi and that is chemical (fuel, oil, etc.) resistant.

    2. Hose between the elbow exhaust pipe to the transom.

    Kawi has a new/improved replacement P/N 92192-1191.
    If you want to save a few $$, find a hose that will withstand minimum 50 psi.

    Imporntant Note: On the hose END at the pipe side, make sure the clamp screw head is at the lowest possible positon.
    There is a very little clearance between the clamp and the rear black plastic seat tray. They may come in contact on rough water riding and the seat tray can knock out the clamp, the hose comes off and the engine compartment gets filled with water.

    Sticky?

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  10. #9
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    I'm just wondering why the Stator cover hose going to the oil cooler would be more of a concern than the other oil cooler hoses or the hose from the SC housing to the engine block,it's not carrying hot water..

  11. #10
    nicjak's Avatar
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    the stator cover hose takes all the pressure from the pump same as the one to the s/c after these hoses everything is slowed down due to smaller id cooler passages, so the water actually obsorbes the heat, the hose would be working like a shock obsorber much like your s/c outlet hose when you rev the engine it expands and contracts.

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