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  1. #1

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    First Yamaha GPR1200R

    Sup guys, newbie here from central texas.
    Just recently purchased a non running 2000 gp1200r for pretty cheap. $700 with trailer. 101 hours
    Its in pretty good condition aside from number 3 cylinder.
    I will be getting parts from SBT because they appear to be the cheapest route for repair.
    Does anyone think the rod bearing might be messed up? what about the needle bearing for the wrist pin?
    Pretty excited to get this thing on the water.. previous PWC was a 97 seadoo gtx 800, was pretty nice but had some issues along the way including throwing a rod LOL.

    On with some pics
    the exterior, just needs the seat recovered.


    Engine Bay

    Damaged cylinder #3

    The other Cylinders are in great condition.

    The Culprit.. oil line came off

    3rd cylinder has obviously been replaced before


    while i was taking it apart I also noticed someone removed the Cat and did NOT put in a D plate, so i guess i will be getting one of those along with full carb rebuild kits.

    Any other Ideas would be appreciated. everything else seems to be in order.

    Glad to be a part of the GreenHulk community.


  2. #2
    C-Phase's Avatar
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    Question. What does "Sup" mean?

  3. #3
    leejax01's Avatar
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    With no DPlate, causes it to lean out. If also rebuild carbs.

  4. #4

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    ^ thats what I was thinking. I will be ordering the d plate before I even attempt to start it. I dont think its has been run for a while so I need to remove all the old fuel and oil and clean everything out. Needs new oil lines to say the least.. there is so much info on this site im sure most of my questions will be answered just browsing.

  5. #5

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    No insight on the rod bearing? Guess I will just have to figure it out.

  6. #6
    Almost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper9789 View Post
    No insight on the rod bearing? Guess I will just have to figure it out.
    Dont take a chance and assume it is good to go only to have it throw a rod on you and end up in the same position. Play it safe and send it out to crankworks to be inspected and rebuilt. Also, do a search on SBT parts/motors, they are natorious for being ticking time bombs. Do it right first the right time and you will be rewarded, go down the SBT rout and you will be continuously throwing money at it and wrenching not riding.

  7. #7

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    I think the replaced cylinder was an sbt, if you look at the pics, the piston is obviously not factory. I might spend the extra few bucks and get a used factory cylinder. I really dont want to crack the block open, then I might aswell not have bought the ski. I found a good clean factory cylinder and piston, I might get that instead. Sbt is not going to warranty single cylinder replacement so I was a little worried about using them.

  8. #8

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    Should be partially easy to tell if the rod bearing is shot.. but maybe not... now im feeling like I should not have bought this ski lol

  9. #9
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    I can tell from the pics that the #3 is a sleeved cylinder so its probably an SBT. Since this is the second failure on #3, it would be best to take the engine out and disassemble, and send the crank out to be inspected and trued/welded. Also I would look at the other pistons and rings for wear while it is apart. If the pistons are good, maybe just hone and go with new rings.
    OEM nikasil is the best IMO and I would strongly suggest going back with a nikasil cylinder, even if its used.


  10. #10

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    Well I put a used cylinder and piston in it, new head and cooler gaskets. Added a d plate and blocked off the oil pump and went premix. Rebuilt the carbs and set the high and low speed jets. after I blew out all the oil in the crankcase she ran great. Just did a couple passes for about 15 mins cuz tags are out.. all the info on this site and the people here are spectacular.

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