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  1. #1

    2009 FX SHO removing glue holding Ride Plate Insert

    So I stripped/cross threaded/broke off the front ride plate bolt (closest to the water box on the port side of the boat). http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=220451

    I'm replacing the Ride Plate Insert but I can't seem to get the damn glue off holding the old one on. This is what I'm trying to remove. Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	336556 The white glue I can remove fairly easy but the green looking crap won't hardly budge.

    I spent 30 minutes or so with a damn screw driver trying to strip away the green glue shit but I can't seem to get it off.

    I've heard a heatgun would work. Is that the best method? Any suggestions?


    Also while I trying to get to the ride plate insert I remove the water box (the big cylindrical silver thing) there was water in it (go figure its called a water box). This might sound stupid but should I put water back in it when I install it or is this just condescension the has built up over time? I'm planning on doing the FF exhaust at the same time.
    Last edited by kur1j; 07-20-2014 at 09:33 PM.


  2. #2
    AWA MEMBER
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    Use a heat gun for glue.....and no you don't have to put water back into water box....it will fill back up on its own

  3. #3
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    The water box cools exhaust gasses and is a form of a muffler

  4. #4
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    I took those same inserts/ glue out of my FZR when I replaced them. I took a regular screwdriver and just pried it off and it broke right off very very easily. Try that first before heat. And if you do decide to use heat, try a hair dryer first IMO

  5. #5
    I scraped for like 30 min and got nothing. Nothing would pry off. Small bits of the green shit would break off but its on there pretty good. I also tried the hair dryer and no luck.

  6. #6
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    I used a heat gun just made sure it wasn't too hot

  7. #7
    you need the heat gun hot! Your not going to hurt anything. aim the heat right at the glue and leave it there til it starts smoking good, they will pop right off! Same as doing the pump tunnel reinforcement. you can search for that on here, same process.


  8. #8
    Gus13letter's Avatar
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    Most of the time you can pry them up with no issue, but if that doesnt work, heat that crap with a heat gun till it smokes. Then you can easily pry them up. You can also insert a bolt into the hole or screw driver and drive them upwards from underneath with a hammer. Just dont force it. You dont want to damage the hull.

  9. #9
    thanks guys.

    the heat gun did the trick. but oh my god it took forever I got the thing out in like an hour of heating and scraping. it took me another 2.5 hours to scrape the glue from around the hull nut hole shit. for one the shit wouldn't come off. I would heat it and then scrape rinse and repeat. the other part is I couldn't hardly get to the damn rear one. I hope to god I got it clean enough to seal it back up with 5200.

    also the 5200 I got is the 1 week cure type. Would it be safe to assume that it would be cured enough to ride on if it's cured for 24 to 48 hours?

  10. #10
    I would get the fast cure, its a little thicker and wont oooze out as much

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