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Thread: water in hull

  1. #1

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    water in hull

    Guys ended up taking 300 to dealer to find leak. I never could find it and I hope they can find it. It gets enough water in it in about 15 minutes to get up into the supercharger belt to make it slip and the ski barely runs. Hopefully dealer is competent. THe only good thing I guess is that its still under warranty.


  2. #2
    SuperCharged67's Avatar
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    Check the gaskets on the plugs?

  3. #3

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    I'd say a cooling hose. I've heard on here of cheap Chinese hoses used in certain years.

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  5. #4
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    not a kawasaki but a friends 2011 vxr was full with water above the engine in just a few hours. turned out to be a split cooling hose near the back of the ski.

  6. #5
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Didn't you test this ski in the water with seat off and tested on trailer backed in the water with flashlight checked for leaks?

  7. #6
    cerebral's Avatar
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    Yep, it’s got to be a cooling hose, the one I have had to deal with mostly is the one that connects to the exhaust pipe, it’s a bit hidden and is easily overlooked, it could also be the cooling hose that connects UNDER the intake manifold and it’s a real PIA to get to unless you take the intake manifold off the block. I have also seen a SPLIT hose that you would not have noticed unless you could feel it. I have been successful by pulling the seat off and taking the ski a couple feet off shore in about waist high water, and then leaning on one side of the ski, keeping the handlebars to the full right or full left position so that the ski just turns in circles and starting it up. As you ride in circles you can feather the gas just a bit to get some pressure in the water hoses, even if you don’t see the split in the hose you will see the water spraying somewhere and then can zero in on the right area.

    Lastly... I had a 12F that I THOUGHT had a leak in the exhaust as I had checked and verified all hoses being good, actually new as I had replaced them all! I was down to the exhaust system having a leak because even when I had the flush hose hooked up and giving it a good rev I could not find the leak. After many hours of troubleshooting I finally broke down and took the ski to a dealer (big mistake) after a couple weeks and several phone calls they called and said my ski was ready to be picked up. When I got there I was informed "we couldn’t find a leak". Son of a ..... , well another rider buddy of mine suggested I just take the seat off and ride the ski as normal, up to full throttle, so thats what I set out to do. Started out and go to 10MPH... Nothing, then 20MPH... Nothing, 30 MPH... Nothing, but the at about 35MPH a high pressure jet of water started shooting out of the top left bolt of the shaft holder (basically the thru-hull fitting) where the jet pump drive shaft leaves the inside of the hull and out to the pump. It’s the black thing about 6inch x 6inch right behind the coupler leading out to the pump. When I got back to land I called the dealer and they informed me that repair of the shaft holder would cost upwards of $500 - $1000 bucks due to the fact the whole engine has to come out to fix that thru-hull fitting. The next day I ordered my KAWASAKI 12F SERVICE MANUAL and became a novice jet-ski repairman, 2 days later I had the engine out and sitting on a lift in my front yard! Only took about an hour to do the actual repair and has been working great ever since.

    Hope this helps someone in the future

  8. #7
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cerebral View Post
    Yep, it’s got to be a cooling hose, the one I have had to deal with mostly is the one that connects to the exhaust pipe, it’s a bit hidden and is easily overlooked, it could also be the cooling hose that connects UNDER the intake manifold and it’s a real PIA to get to unless you take the intake manifold off the block. I have also seen a SPLIT hose that you would not have noticed unless you could feel it. I have been successful by pulling the seat off and taking the ski a couple feet off shore in about waist high water, and then leaning on one side of the ski, keeping the handlebars to the full right or full left position so that the ski just turns in circles and starting it up. As you ride in circles you can feather the gas just a bit to get some pressure in the water hoses, even if you don’t see the split in the hose you will see the water spraying somewhere and then can zero in on the right area.

    Lastly... I had a 12F that I THOUGHT had a leak in the exhaust as I had checked and verified all hoses being good, actually new as I had replaced them all! I was down to the exhaust system having a leak because even when I had the flush hose hooked up and giving it a good rev I could not find the leak. After many hours of troubleshooting I finally broke down and took the ski to a dealer (big mistake) after a couple weeks and several phone calls they called and said my ski was ready to be picked up. When I got there I was informed "we couldn’t find a leak". Son of a ..... , well another rider buddy of mine suggested I just take the seat off and ride the ski as normal, up to full throttle, so thats what I set out to do. Started out and go to 10MPH... Nothing, then 20MPH... Nothing, 30 MPH... Nothing, but the at about 35MPH a high pressure jet of water started shooting out of the top left bolt of the shaft holder (basically the thru-hull fitting) where the jet pump drive shaft leaves the inside of the hull and out to the pump. It’s the black thing about 6inch x 6inch right behind the coupler leading out to the pump. When I got back to land I called the dealer and they informed me that repair of the shaft holder would cost upwards of $500 - $1000 bucks due to the fact the whole engine has to come out to fix that thru-hull fitting. The next day I ordered my KAWASAKI 12F SERVICE MANUAL and became a novice jet-ski repairman, 2 days later I had the engine out and sitting on a lift in my front yard! Only took about an hour to do the actual repair and has been working great ever since.

    Hope this helps someone in the future
    Yep ..when you get that price quote from the dealer you run to that tool box fast!
    BTW those oil cooler lines under the Intake Manifold can be removed and upgraded without removing Manifold...
    The line from the Stator cover below to the front of the oil cooler is easy to see and rerun, the lines running from the cooler out can removed by removing oil filter and getting your hand down under feeling around and loosening clamps with a mini ratchet with a 6mm socket or like Nj said sometime before drop a 1/4 " extension down/elbow socket in the openings in the manifold,plumbing the hoses back on is no biggie...

    Might get some bloody knuckles,but the price of a few bandaids is a lot less than that Bill that service mgr's gonna give you with a smile...


  9. #8
    nicjak's Avatar
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    Ive had a split hose and I can assure you it didnt spray just a few droplets of water were noticeable, they find there way around through the fibre reinforcing then it obviously splits in due course the longer you leave them.

  10. #9
    Having come from a closed loop Seadoo, I'm happy to have the extra cooling of the open loop, but pissed to hear about the leaking hoses lol
    I actually had about a cup of water at the bottom of my brand new 310, and for sure it didn't come in from any wave action.

    The manual mentions a "jet vacuum drainage at the rear of the engine compartment, that utilizes the water jet to drain the bilge, only works when the engine is running on water" - How does that work ?
    So like someone mentioned, driving around with the seat off can pinpoint any leaks, maybe a camera in their too

    Is there a way to step down the water flow through the system ?

  11. #10
    nicjak's Avatar
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    bilge works from a syphon created by vacuum from the pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by slope View Post
    Having come from a closed loop Seadoo, I'm happy to have the extra cooling of the open loop, but pissed to hear about the leaking hoses lol
    I actually had about a cup of water at the bottom of my brand new 310, and for sure it didn't come in from any wave action.

    The manual mentions a "jet vacuum drainage at the rear of the engine compartment, that utilizes the water jet to drain the bilge, only works when the engine is running on water" - How does that work ?
    So like someone mentioned, driving around with the seat off can pinpoint any leaks, maybe a camera in their too

    Is there a way to step down the water flow through the system ?

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