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  1. #1

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    polaris freedom starts with bilge pump.

    I read many posts on how to troubleshoot a the 2003 Freedom ski however, I still need direction.

    Ski starts with bilge button pressed so I bought a new lr 505 and it did not resolve the problem which by far was the most popular answer.

    Just like most people with an older ski, I cannot afford to throw expensive parts at it.

    What is the next step. With it running, that has to eliminate a lot of parts? Appreciate everyone's patience as I work through this.


  2. #2

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    Did I not pose my question correctly? Do I need to give more info. K447 how about a little help.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-E View Post
    Did I not pose my question correctly? Do I need to give more info. ...
    I was mostly offline last week, as were a bunch of other regulars

    If you bypass the LR-505 module the engine starts and runs properly, correct?

    Since you bought a new (it was actually new, not used?) LR-505 module, I will presume for the moment the module is actually good.

    The LR Start/Stop module depends on several signals. The most important are the Black ground connection, the Red/Purple battery power connection and the Yellow wire from the stator.

    With engine not running both Red/Purple and Yellow at LR module should measure full battery voltage.

    The Black wire at LR module should measure zero ohms to engine block.

  4. #4

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    Thank you so much for your time. I see your dedication to the sport and I will pay it forward where applicable.

    The LR 505 is new OEM and I will presume it is functional for now. The red/pur has the same voltage as the battery and the black has 0 ohms. The stator has 5.6 ohms on black and purple and 0 ohms yellow and red/pur. I do not have the PWC with me to check now so, if the yellow coming out of the LR 505 has o volts and the stator is reading 0 ohms at yellow and red/pur what are the numbers pointing to?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-E View Post
    Thank you so much for your time. I see your dedication to the sport and I will pay it forward where applicable.

    The LR 505 is new OEM and I will presume it is functional for now. The red/pur has the same voltage as the battery and the black has 0 ohms. The stator has 5.6 ohms on black and purple and 0 ohms yellow and red/pur. I do not have the PWC with me to check now so, if the yellow coming out of the LR 505 has o volts and the stator is reading 0 ohms at yellow and red/pur what are the numbers pointing to?
    Be careful measuring ohms when the battery is connected. Ohms measurements are best done with the battery disconnected or all the wires to the thing (stator in this case) unplugged.

    The stator charging coil (Yellow to Red/Purple) is a very low ohms measurement. Many meters have difficulty showing accurate ohms measurements at very low resistances, especially actual resistances under 1.0 ohms. Your meter showing zero ohms might actually be the correct result, given the possible meter inaccuracy.

    If the Yellow wires has zero volts then either the stator charging coil is open (Yellow to Red/Purple) or the Red/Purple end of the stator coil is not actually connected to battery power.

  6. #6

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    Stator was unplugged while testing. I pulled the orange insert out of the stator plug to ensure a good connection and the volt meter is not professional grade.

    I have 12.6 volts out of the circuit breaker to stator so I know I have volts going in.

    How would I check it past that point? Red/pur turns to yellow coming out of the stator hence the earlier recommendation to check yellow? What does open mean? Grounded? Should I take the flywheel off to inspect or trace the yellow wire for an insulation issue?

  7. #7

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    Just realized it will start but not turn off with the start/stop switch and only with pulling the lanyard. Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-E View Post
    Stator was unplugged while testing. I pulled the orange insert out of the stator plug to ensure a good connection and the volt meter is not professional grade.

    I have 12.6 volts out of the circuit breaker to stator so I know I have volts going in.

    How would I check it past that point? Red/pur turns to yellow coming out of the stator hence the earlier recommendation to check yellow? What does open mean? Grounded? Should I take the flywheel off to inspect or trace the yellow wire for an insulation issue?
    Lets recap,

    Stator inline connector unplugged, from the stator side of the connector you measure zero ohms (or close to zero) between Yellow and Red/Purple

    From the electrical box side of that external connector, you measure zero ohms from Red/Purple inside the electrical box to the Red/Purple pin in the connector, correct?

    The Yellow terminals in the electrical box measure zero ohms to the Yellow pin on the unplugged connector, correct?

    With stator inline connector put together you measure battery voltage on Red/Purple in the electrical box.

    And you should also find battery voltage on the Yellow terminals in the electrical box.

    If all the above are as described then the stator charging coil and the inline connector is probably good.

    When doing electrical testing 'open' means there is no connection, no continuity, between the two test points.

  9. #9

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    Stator inline connector unplugged, from the stator side of the connector you measure zero ohms (or close to zero) between Yellow and Red/Purple. Correct

    From the electrical box side of that external connector, you measure zero ohms from Red/Purple inside the electrical box to the Red/Purple pin in the connector, correct? Correct

    The Yellow terminals in the electrical box measure zero ohms to the Yellow pin on the unplugged connector, correct? Correct

    With stator inline connector put together you measure battery voltage on Red/Purple in the electrical box. Correct

    And you should also find battery voltage on the Yellow terminals in the electrical box. I had 12.6 v. on yellow. I unplugged r/p to lr505 and yellow voltage went away. So I assume the lr505 is good.

    If all the above are as described then the stator charging coil and the inline connector is probably good.

    When doing electrical testing 'open' means there is no connection, no continuity, between the two test points.

    So, with all that said what can I eliminate next? CDI? Voltage Reg? There's not much to this system so we have to be getting close.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-E View Post
    Stator inline connector unplugged, from the stator side of the connector you measure zero ohms (or close to zero) between Yellow and Red/Purple. Correct

    From the electrical box side of that external connector, you measure zero ohms from Red/Purple inside the electrical box to the Red/Purple pin in the connector, correct? Correct

    The Yellow terminals in the electrical box measure zero ohms to the Yellow pin on the unplugged connector, correct? Correct

    With stator inline connector put together you measure battery voltage on Red/Purple in the electrical box. Correct

    And you should also find battery voltage on the Yellow terminals in the electrical box. I had 12.6 v. on yellow.
    I unplugged r/p to lr505 and yellow voltage went away.
    So I assume the lr505 is good.


    If all the above are as described then the stator charging coil and the inline connector is probably good.

    When doing electrical testing 'open' means there is no connection, no continuity, between the two test points.

    So, with all that said what can I eliminate next? CDI? Voltage Reg? There's not much to this system so we have to be getting close.
    I unplugged r/p to lr505 and yellow voltage went away.
    That should not happen. Battery voltage does not travel through the LR module to get from Red/Purple to a Yellow. It travels through the stator coil.

    Did you mean to say you unplugged the stator Red/Purple?

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