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  1. #1

    So in love......

    Just spent two days solid, back to back, riding through the Swedish archipeligo with my aS RXTX - wow, what a very capable ski.

    Riding two up with luggage on rear, hitting some very heavy chop, the hull was planted solid. My wife (riding pillion) commented how it just smashed the chop dead or just ploughed straight through. Soooooo much different than my old 04 GTX hull.

    And the suspension, absolutely priceless.

    I know, I know, I've bitched about how much of a PITA it is to work on, but the last two days riding has proved to me it's worth all the hastle.

    What an incredible, confident and capable ski.

    I'm in summer love with my black beast


  2. #2
    imp0ster's Avatar
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    The suspension skis are simply amazing in the rough. I'd love to have one for the island days.

  3. #3

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    Nice update! so how long does it take to get the deck off? What kind of speeds are seeing with your mods?

  4. #4
    Taking the top deck off is a PITA for four reasons;

    1) With the knowledge, right tools and everything laid out, I can remove the top deck and separate in around 30 mins. Would be quicker if I had more height in my workshop, but that's my fault. But time is not the biggest PITA by far.

    2) Replacing the deck is where all the trouble is. Connecting the front deck suspension mounts are near on impossible. Despite following shop manual to the word AND taking GH advice from Seadoo Techs, there is no easy way to do it. First you are battling with a heavy, unbalanced and odd shaped deck which is desperately trying to hack chunks out of anything it touches (bottom hull gelcoat, your fingers!!). Whilst protecting all these, you have to connect the steering, nitrogen resevoir and various electrical harnesses. Once connected, these mean that the two decks are now very close and tugging on the connections. Now the tricky bit. Imagine a see-saw. In the middle of the see-saw connects the top deck onto a coil suspension spring (fully extended). Next to this is a fully extended damper. Both ends of the see-saw now need connecting to the bottom deck (by means of a floating pivot arrangement which only bolts together when the centre spring & damper is compressed). This is where the trouble starts. There's no way to clamp or pre-compress the spring & damper. So you have to try and tip the whole top deck forwards, nose down, but none of the cables or electrical connections are long enough. JUST this part takes me, with experience, around an hr now, despite all the tricks of the trade!!

    3) Many of the fixings are one time use (although I often clean up the threads and re-use with new loctite). But the threads for many parts are just inserts moulded into the fibreglass/composite shell. These cannot be replaced without major gelcoat/fibreglass work. Therefore everytime you remove and replace these fitting you can see and feel their effective useful life reducing.(imaging removing woodscrews from wood, replacing in same hole, removing again, replacing in same hole, again and again) you get the picture, there's only a limited number of times this can be done. You have to also remove two rubber footplate mats which you either have to replace or re-glue. Either way you have to remove nasty, tough glue each time.

    4) You cannot check any work you've done UNTIL the top deck is on. So for me this time, I'd had all the fuel lines off, re-routed and replaced, FPR in, fuel tank insides all out and modified, new injectors, full CMD with manually wired parts and several wire taps, bilge pump wiring and new hose work, SC off / rebuild - so all hoses off, new IC so cooling water hoses off and manifold off. Imagine having to put all that top deck on BEFORE testing anything. If just one hose clamp or wire isn't perfectly seated - aaaaaarrrrggggh!! Top deck off again.

    Hope this long, but necessary explaination puts some meat behind the statement, it's a PITA to work on. It's not just the time it takes.

    Can still forgive her for this weeks' performance out there in the rough stuff.

    As for performance numbers, I can't get any yet. Haven't ridden alone since mods and I know I'm at least 250 rpm down due to 90F air 75F water the last two days (yes Sweden can get hot sometimes, these are peak days right now Also had to run shitty sea station gas.

    Will get some numbers in a week or so on new gas and cooler air temps.
    Last edited by tornado34; 07-27-2014 at 10:04 AM.

  5. #5

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    Wow that is fantastic into!

    Me and another nut bag on this forum that is currently turbo-ing my px260 are discussing if it would be possible to fit a turbo setup in a suspension model...do you think you could squeeze a turbo kit in it?

    Do you have like a setup(lift) to hold the deck above the ski while you re-attach it?

    Looking forward to your results.

  6. #6
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    what about making a plug in extension harness
    so you could run the motor on the hose and check everything
    the only problem I see trying to turbo a suspension ski
    is how do you know if something is rubbing, if you cant see it until you remove the top???
    so IMO the suspension skis get big SC and good IC and call it good

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by skidoochris View Post
    what about making a plug in extension harness
    so you could run the motor on the hose and check everything
    the only problem I see trying to turbo a suspension ski
    is how do you know if something is rubbing, if you cant see it until you remove the top???
    so IMO the suspension skis get big SC and good IC and call it good
    Great points...

  8. #8
    Rubbing isn't an issue as the surfaces that 'pass' each other through the suspension travel, are both sealed closed boxes in effect. If it fits in, i can't touch anything. There is one point where rubbing can occur, through the suspension coil and damper area. This is where the wiring harness, steering cable and nitrogen pass between the upper and lower deck. Here I just make sure there's enough slack to out travel the maximum lift and zip tie everything safely away from the nasty moving bits!

    The biggest issue is space, there just isn't any. I need to use a shorter waterbox to allow me to fit a vertical 4" solid stack onto the SC. I have to hang my FPR upside down from the engine cowling, as there is not enough space anywhere to fit that tiny bracket (Riva RRFPR). Fitting any kind of through hull above the waterline is also near on impossible. There is no place where the body is flat enough to mount a thru hull fitting, where there's any space behind for hosework. Sounds minor, but a real PITA when fitting any pissers or bilge pumps.

    For lifting the top deck I use an electric winch and lifting sling. Ok if lifting level, but more tricky if needing to tip the nose up or down. I tried using two separate slings, but it doen't work so great with one winch. A great solution would be two slings (one front on back) and two electric winches.

    If you plan on working loads with the top deck removed, a temp harness extension would work, a bit of DIY, but doable. Testing on the hose would mean finding somewhere to both lift the top deck and allow water to piss out. My garage would flood, but you guys may have a drain?!??,

    I have worked lots with just the rear lifted. It takes about 15 mins to open, another 30 mins to remove engine deck extension (fiddly, but ok). Then you have an opening 30cm high from the rear of the ski to work from. Tight, but from here I've managed to remove and refit air intake manifold, all charge hoses, change oil filter (yes, unless you are a gynacologist, this is impossible from the normal engine bay access - thanks BRP). Once you need to access any fuel related shit, valve train, exhaust manifold, starter motor etc, it's off with the top deck.

    I will post some photos shortly of the hull when split.

    As before, I would still choose the aS over regular if riding the chop I do.

    The extra weight it costs just means you have to go on a diet to retain the same power to weight ratio as a regular non suspension ski - done that

  9. #9
    Tiny's Avatar
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    BRP makes an extension harness as a shop tool for the techs

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Tiny View Post
    BRP makes an extension harness as a shop tool for the techs
    Of course they do, I have a workshop full of bespoke BRP tools already, I don't think even the American Airforce Technicians have this many special tools!!!

    I laugh sometimes when I see the shop manual call for another special tool. Often I make one. My favourite is the BRP tool to insert the needle bearings into the SC gear. The 'needle bearing pusher' tool. Ha!!

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