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  1. #1

    Just Bought 2000 Polaris Genesis has no spark!

    Hello Everyone,

    I am new to this site and was wondering if I could get a little help with this issue I am having. I purchased a 2000 Four Seater Polaris Genesis Red three cylinder carb engine and it did not run, original owner said it was running fine while out on lake took a few hour break and came back to it and it did not start, it has been in storage for two years, so first thing I did was drain all fuel and oil, started doing a lot of reading on this site and second thing I did was order an all plastic black externally mounted starter solenoid, then after further reading I purchased a Duracell Ultra AGM Battery capable of 325 CCA, once installed I checked voltage while cranking and the voltage drops to 11.8 Volts, which according to post Polaris needs at least 10.6V while cranking to produce spark. I have also ordered 20ft of new Marine Fuel Line because it came equipped with the original grey faulty fuel line. But before I decide to spend the time/labor installing all this fuel line I wanted to make sure this thing would at least attempt to start. It turns over very nicely and voltage does not drop below 11.8V while cranking, but I get no spark whatsoever. I downloaded the 332 Page Service manual and have performed nearly all the recommended electrical diagnostic steps. I was most recently performing the Bypass of the LR505 Module and it still has no spark!! I did notice something that appeared a little odd to me and I have posted a picture for you to see, and I know everyone has said that the only way to truly see if your CDI is bad is to replace it with a known working one, but before I do that I was wondering if the bubbling you see around the wires from the CDI is normal or not? Any help you can offer me would be greatly appreciated!
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  2. #2
    Polaris John's Avatar
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    Looks like heat damage from inside you don't know if someone worked on it?

  3. #3
    Hey Polaris John,

    Thanks for replying! The original owner said he had some work done on it, didnt specify what and it ran fine for a while, then one day out on lake after running for a while they stopped to take a break and when they came back out it would not start. He took it to someone who was willing to work on it and did some more repairs, mainly on the carb, and never got it running, he asked the guy for $400 more dollars after he had already spent $600 and decided to cut his losses, he put it in storage for two years and I come in and buy it from him for $700 including the trailer, and after all the stuff I posted about it yesterday that is where I am at with the PWC, I am not extremely mechanical butt I know my way around engines, and I thought after removing the LR505 yesterday that the CDI looked like it had some overheat issues but wanted to see what you might think, any thoughts or suggestions you can offer would be greatly appreciated!

  4. #4
    Polaris John's Avatar
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    Looking at the pictures to me looks like someone tried to jumpstart the ski just guess. Jumpstarting a ski will damage the electronics $700 is a good price for a carb model. Disconnect the battery and go through the whole electrical system check for bad connections the cdi looks damaged. When buying a used ski you should go over the ski from top to bottom you never know what your getting.

  5. #5
    Thanks again for your reply,

    I have been through this thing pretty well, everything else seems to be OK, any idea where I could even begin to find a CDI, also is what I'm reading about the possibility of having to adjust the timing true when you install a new/used CDI unit?

  6. #6
    I have another question I noticed my CDi has on it PVL Made in Germany Art. Nr 573 203, then what looks like someone wrote with a big white marker is 1175......What does the 1175 mean?

  7. #7
    Polaris John's Avatar
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    Its possible its been replaced before and someone wrote a part number on the outside of the case. The owner before maybe replaced it there could be another reason the cdi failed I would double check all the wiring. You can reach out to a greenhulk member for one or try SBT I would send pm K447 greenhulk a member he is a guru on Polaris.

  8. #8
    Awesome, thanks for the suggestions, I will try them!

  9. #9
    OK, found something else, when I disconnected the brown wire from the CDI and hooked up my voltmeter I noticed it had voltage even before I hit the starter, I thought you should not see any voltage until you hit the starter, I was seeing approx 7-8 volts before I even started it, any suggestions?

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmbrown28 View Post
    OK, found something else, when I disconnected the brown wire from the CDI and hooked up my voltmeter I noticed it had voltage even before I hit the starter, I thought you should not see any voltage until you hit the starter, I was seeing approx 7-8 volts before I even started it, any suggestions?
    If the battery was just connected then the CDI can be awake and delivering the 8 volts on Brown wire to the stator.

    Have you done the stator coil ohm checks and the Hall Effect sensor tests?

    Also ohm check the ignition coils and spark plug wires.

    What voltage is available right at the CDI when the engine is cranking?
    CDI power feed wires are Black and Red/Purple.

    Leave the LR module bypassed until you get it sparking, if not actually running.

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