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  1. #1

    04 STX-12F Water Pipe / Stator Cover Salt Damage

    Anyone else have their water pipe welded to the block.. for the life of me I cannot get this thing loose any tips?
    also - the flywheel on the stator cover has to come off to repair the salt damage.. Could not budge with a breaker bar... anyone else have this issue?

    Thanks,
    Rob

    - Attached pics..
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  2. #2
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Cut the pipe loose from the head then drill 2 relief holes on the inserts very carefully. Then hit with a chisel and pop out. Make sure to vacuum the holes out and be very careful.
    Sean

  3. #3
    Thx smokey. I will try that.

  4. #4
    cerebral's Avatar
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    Ok as for the coupler... Mine was in much the same state as yours, rusted on due to salt water ingestion. I really think in this case you should make a coupler tool from a used coupler or buy the Kawasaki one (part# 57001-1423, see pic below) due to the fact that the coupler is a soft aluminum alloy metal and is quite fragile. I was able to get mine off by wrapping a 1.5 foot breaker bar in some rubber drawer liner so it fit snug across the coupler. The first time I tried to hold the timing wheel like they show in the service manual but i was exerting so much force that I actually stripped the timing wheel and had to replace it (luckily it was only 10 bucks). SO on my next attempt I used the small piece of rope down the #4 cylinder, feeding it in the spark plug hole with a socket extension until I got enough rope in the cylinder to bind it up and have the crankshaft stop turning. Then I put the breaker bar back across the coupler and put a 5 foot piece of steel pipe on the breaker bar. I had my wife stand on the right side of the engine where i had it screwed to some 4x4 wood and then pushed down (counter-clockwise) with all I had, well it broke loose but I wound up breaking one of the "teeth" from the soft metal coupler, bummer. This is where the next problem occurred....
    Getting the broken coupler off the metal shaft piece was a major pain, there is a small 36mm nut behind the coupler your are supposed to turn while holding the coupler to get the coupler off the shaft that fits in the engine. You need a special "flat" wrench to do this as the 36mm nut is between two round objects and sits recessed a bit. Even with a flat wrench I could not get that thing to break loose, I even used the 5 foot extension and just about pulled my vise off my workbench trying to get it off. BUT as i said before the coupler is a very soft alloy metal so I took a hacksaw and sawed from one side just about to the center of the coupler, then I sawed from the opposite side to the center basically creating a line up to the threaded steel shaft, being careful not to saw into the center shaft. I took a claw hammer and smacked the halves a couple times hitting them away from the shaft and they broke right off the shaft. After seeing how much rust was in the threads I don’t think I would have ever actually been able to unscrew the coupler. Cleaned up the shaft and put the new $24 coupler on.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by cerebral View Post
    Ok as for the coupler... Mine was in much the same state as yours, rusted on due to salt water ingestion. I really think in this case you should make a coupler tool from a used coupler or buy the Kawasaki one (part# 57001-1423, see pic below) due to the fact that the coupler is a soft aluminum alloy metal and is quite fragile. I was able to get mine off by wrapping a 1.5 foot breaker bar in some rubber drawer liner so it fit snug across the coupler. The first time I tried to hold the timing wheel like they show in the service manual but i was exerting so much force that I actually stripped the timing wheel and had to replace it (luckily it was only 10 bucks). SO on my next attempt I used the small piece of rope down the #4 cylinder, feeding it in the spark plug hole with a socket extension until I got enough rope in the cylinder to bind it up and have the crankshaft stop turning. Then I put the breaker bar back across the coupler and put a 5 foot piece of steel pipe on the breaker bar. I had my wife stand on the right side of the engine where i had it screwed to some 4x4 wood and then pushed down (counter-clockwise) with all I had, well it broke loose but I wound up breaking one of the "teeth" from the soft metal coupler, bummer. This is where the next problem occurred....
    Getting the broken coupler off the metal shaft piece was a major pain, there is a small 36mm nut behind the coupler your are supposed to turn while holding the coupler to get the coupler off the shaft that fits in the engine. You need a special "flat" wrench to do this as the 36mm nut is between two round objects and sits recessed a bit. Even with a flat wrench I could not get that thing to break loose, I even used the 5 foot extension and just about pulled my vise off my workbench trying to get it off. BUT as i said before the coupler is a very soft alloy metal so I took a hacksaw and sawed from one side just about to the center of the coupler, then I sawed from the opposite side to the center basically creating a line up to the threaded steel shaft, being careful not to saw into the center shaft. I took a claw hammer and smacked the halves a couple times hitting them away from the shaft and they broke right off the shaft. After seeing how much rust was in the threads I don’t think I would have ever actually been able to unscrew the coupler. Cleaned up the shaft and put the new $24 coupler on.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It sounds like you had a knuckle busting and annoying day when you did this..lol..

  7. #6
    boudin's Avatar
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    I have a 36" chain wrench for the job, nicknamed "The Persuader".

    Click image for larger version. 

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    -Greg

  8. #7
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    buy the correct tool .....they are cheap

    and do the job correctly

    Waz

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