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  1. #1

    02 GTX DI Bogging

    LONG TIME lurker, first post.

    My 2002 GTX DI was running awesome until about a month ago. It has 230 hours on it, and I've always kept maintenance up on it - I have the shop manuals and follow a lot of the suggestions from this board.

    I put the ski in the water after filling up with 100% gas, and it ran great for a half hour, then bogged and died. It started right back and slowly started to run rougher and was turning less and less RPMS (all of this happened within a minute). It quickly was running so poorly that it would start and idle for about 5 seconds, then die. I let it sit and took it out the next day to work on it. Ran great for 3 minutes, then the same quick loss of power and 5 second intervals that it would run.

    I pulled the plugs, totally fouled (BLACK). I pulled the fuel rail and checked things. I soaked the tips of the injectors and cleaned them. The rave valves are nearly polished, plugs were replaced, fuel pressure 107, cylinders 123 each. Ran it again, same thing... 3 minutes of run time, then bleh. Fouled the plugs again in that short amount of time.

    At no time did I get an alarm or limp mode.

    I took it to a place in Knoxville, they plugged up and saw some fuel rail related codes (wish I would have asked for specifics). They said that an o-ring on the fuel rail was in rough shape, so for $215 they replaced it. Apparently shop towels have gotten expensive. Got it home, same thing. Ran like crap. Took it back, and they said the stator was not putting out full output - quoted me $1100 to replace, so I did that one myself easily. One phase of the stator was reading 1.1ohm, so technically out of spec. I did the math and it would have pushed the output down considerably. Ski still ran the same - glad I didn't pay the $1100 for the dealer to replace.

    I took it to another shop. Plugged up the computer, said an injector related code would pop occasionally, but the ski never ran bad on the trailer. He cleaned the injectors with cleaner, so not a true clean and balance/check, and the codes stopped popping. Ran great. The 100% gas smelled funny, which had only been in the tank for 3 weeks, and came from a very new and reputable gas station... but I had him drain it anyway. Ran FANTASTIC for 3 minutes. It actually turned more RPM's than it ever had, and I gained about 3mph, which was awesome. Until it loaded up and fouled the plugs and ran like junk again.

    The last shop said that the injector cleaning may have been just enough of a fix to get it going. I can't understand why I can run it for 3 minutes every time until it is good and warm, then it sucks wind. The thing ran fine for the mechanic for 15 minutes with no load.

    I've considered buying a used rail/injectors/etc for testing - new injectors are $250 each, and I can get a used setup from ebay for $200. I'm not sure how reliable some used equipment would be, but I may determine quickly if something is right/wrong.

    I'm at the guessing stage now, so any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.


  2. #2
    xxx2's Avatar
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    Need to determine if it's spark or fuel related. Thinking id put a timing light on it and the fuel pressure gauge and head to the ramp. If you could get it to act up on the trailer would be nice and watch the flash and your fuel pressure and see what it does when it acts up... hopefully someone will chime in with a solution. Your tank is venting right? Wouldn't explain wet plugs tho

  3. #3
    What do you shoot with the timing light on the ski? The output shaft?

    I could probably replicate it on the ramp, but when the ski has issues after warming up, it will not run for more than 3-5 seconds, that is until it sits for a few minutes - but the issue doesn't exist then. When the ski is running poorly, it will not run for more than 3-5 seconds max. I don't know if sitting cools down the ski and maybe some sensor is heat affected, or if it is gas drying from the cylinder. A guy on another forum was thinking maybe the air compressor wasn't putting out enough pressure consequently causing the spray to not atomize correctly.

    I unfortunately do not have an in-line pressure gauge for the ski and the fun seadoo connectors.

  4. #4
    xxx2's Avatar
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    Id look at the flashing light and see if it dies out, goes erratic, or when it won't run if it's even sparking . If you have to T into the fuel supply line somehow, Need to know if your losing fuel pressure. Fuel Pump May be acting up, obstruction,ect...just part swapping can get expensive as you are seeing.

  5. #5
    Yeah, I could definitely T in and just tie it back with a nipple/clamps when done - not sure about how well it will hold with 100+psi though. It'll probably make me sick to cut that line

  6. #6
    xxx2's Avatar
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    Otiker clamps and try to t in at the end of a line to keep from having to cut if possible. Just an idea if you do have to cut, maybe try and source a Schrader valve to permanently install

  7. #7
    Yeah, I need to buy some oetiker clamps... seem fairly reasonable and I could use the for a lot of things. As far as going to the end... all of the fittings on my GTX DI are pre made onto the hose, so no way to clamp onto that which I am aware of???

    I definitely have a drawer full of schrader valves

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    I'd be looking at the ignition coil, if you are going to throw some parts at it, why not start off cheap? However,,the VERY first thing I would do is turn the pto when the trouble starts to see if perhaps the engine is seizing..after all it does have a couple of hundred hours on it.

    as always I suggest having a code reader like a candoo if you are going to try fixing a DI.

    I had somebody pull in a few weeks ago with a maint signal and limp mode condition (bad air injector), diagnosed it with candoo, popped a used one off one of my yard queens and the guy was back on the water the next day.

    Find another shop that uses cheaper shop rags. A bad o-ring on the fuel rail will typically result in heavy fuel smells. I changed out the air injector and it was only an hour of time including the diagnostic. I'm at $125 an hour these days.

    I'd say with a code reader and a shop manual, there aren't many DI problems outside the range of the shadetree fix, assuming of course that the maint light is on, if it is not, you are going to have a challenge.

  9. #9
    xxx2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecpunk View Post
    At no time did I get an alarm or limp mode.
    if you had diagnostics such as buds or candoo would be nice addition, however not 100% sure it would justify the cost for your single application/issue. Now for a repair shop...absolutely necessary

  10. #10
    xxx2's Avatar
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    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...o gtx di -2002
    Check this thread if you haven't already. Looks like he fitted a pressure gauge behind fuel filter Click image for larger version. 

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