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  1. #1

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    02 Virage TXi doesnt have spark all of a sudden. Seems to spark when let off starter

    I cannot for the life of me find out where the LR503 is located. I have a 2002 TXi. Was running fine and now has no spark. Where is the LR-503?
    Last edited by jayrod; 07-30-2014 at 10:44 AM.


  2. #2

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    I found it. Ita waaaayyyy under the steering above the fuel tank. I had to almost crawl in to find it. Wasn't my problem though.

  3. #3

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    Im charging the battery overnight and will try it tomorrow.

  4. #4

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    OK battery is holding around 12 volts while cranking and still will not start. Little background. I got this ski missing the EMM for $300. Got a broken EMM, replaced C89 myself, had ghostinstallations do the mapping, and took it out 3 times to the lake. It ran descent at first, but would still shut off out of nowhere sometimes (seems like it would do it when I was going on the fast side). I replaced the plugs and it ran great with gobs of power. After about 15 minutes it shut off by itself again, and for the first time didn't immediately start back up. It started up the 2nd or 3rd attempt, ran for about 5 more minutes, shut off, and that's where I sit. I have checked fuel pressure. Its coming out of the Schrader valve, and the hose swells up nice like it should. With plugs off I can see gas all in there. I have confirmed no spark on any cylinder. I have tried bypassing LR-503, didn't help. Took the EMM back apart since I haven't sealed it yet, and C89 looks great, no signs of burnt anything or smell. I put my voltmeter on each coil, and even on the plugs electrode while cranking and it shows 0 AC volts while cranking, but as soon as you let off the starter the volts jump up a little and go back to 0. The battery is showing great voltage, so I'm not sure why it seems to be trying to spark when you let off the starter?? How many fuses and/or breakers are there related to spark? I see a breaker mounted on top of the battery, and one 5 amp fuse nearby, but that's it.

  5. #5

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    Injector volts check out. Also, when I put the lanyard on, I can hear a clicking that's in rhythm with a spark. It sounds like its coming from the battery area. With lanyard off the clicking goes away.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayrod View Post
    Injector volts check out. Also, when I put the lanyard on, I can hear a clicking that's in rhythm with a spark. It sounds like its coming from the battery area. With lanyard off the clicking goes away.
    What do you mean by 'in rhythm' with the spark?

    Is it sparking only when you release the Start button? If so, the start solenoid would be clicking when the Start button is released.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayrod View Post
    OK battery is holding around 12 volts while cranking and still will not start.

    Little background. I got this ski missing the EMM for $300. Got a broken EMM, replaced C89 myself, had ghostinstallations do the mapping, and took it out 3 times to the lake. It ran decent at first, but would still shut off out of nowhere sometimes (seems like it would do it when I was going on the fast side).

    I replaced the plugs and it ran great with gobs of power. After about 15 minutes it shut off by itself again, and for the first time didn't immediately start back up. It started up the 2nd or 3rd attempt, ran for about 5 more minutes, shut off, and that's where I sit.

    I have checked fuel pressure. Its coming out of the Schrader valve, and the hose swells up nice like it should. With plugs off I can see gas all in there.

    I have confirmed no spark on any cylinder. I have tried bypassing LR-503, didn't help.

    Took the EMM back apart since I haven't sealed it yet, and C89 looks great, no signs of burnt anything or smell.

    I put my voltmeter on each coil, and even on the plugs electrode while cranking and it shows 0 AC volts while cranking, but as soon as you let off the starter the volts jump up a little and go back to 0.

    The battery is showing great voltage, so I'm not sure why it seems to be trying to spark when you let off the starter??

    How many fuses and/or breakers are there related to spark? I see a breaker mounted on top of the battery, and one 5 amp fuse nearby, but that's it.
    On a Polars Ficht engine all the electrical power to run the EMM plus the ignition coils and the fuel injectors all comes from the stator coils. The battery is just used to physically crank the engine.

    The EMM power section converts the AC from the stator into 45 DC volts (20+ while cranking), which exits the EMM on the 8-pin Deutsch connector. That 'injector power' travels on a White/Red wire through the 4-pin diagnostic loop through connector and back into the EMM via the large 40-pin connector.

    The circuit breaker(s) and fuse(s) on Ficht models provide battery power to the display, the start solenoid, the LR module, electric fuel pump, bilge pump, turn signals, etc.

    Sudden engine shut down may or may not be a separate problem cause from the no spark problem. A failing LR Start/Stop module can cause problems. Leave it bypassed until you get all the other problems sorted out.

    It is possible the Start button switch is going bad or the wiring has an issue. Not all that common, but it can happen.

    C89 is certainly not the only thing that can go wrong inside an EMM.

    What is the date code on the used EMM you bought? What model engine is it from?

    Is the TPS new?

  8. #8

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    TPS is not new, its atleast 5 years old. I unplugged it and nothing changed but its hard for me to believe that a TPS can cause no spark. Even if couldn't you trick it with a resistor or something?


    The EMM was from a Genesis 2001 he thought but wasn't 100%.

    When I did get it to start back up after it died, I was fiddling with the lanyard switch, pulling it harder and that was when it cranked. Not sure if its the problem, but how can I bypass the lanyard switch really quick? You said the start button could be failing, but wouldn't it not even turn over if so? It turns over well.

    To test the stator I check at the 12 pin connector that's on the front of the EMM correct?

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jayrod View Post
    Injector volts check out. Also, when I put the lanyard on, I can hear a clicking that's in rhythm with a spark. It sounds like its coming from the battery area. With lanyard off the clicking goes away.
    What do you mean by 'in rhythm' with the spark?

    Is it sparking only when you release the Start button? If so, the start solenoid would be clicking when the Start button is released.
    In rythhm, I mean if you have ever watched a spark plug spark while turning an engine over, the clicking would go right with that. Clicking at the same time you see a spark.

    It seems I may hear another, maybe a tad louder click when I release the start button. I can see no spark at the plug, ever.

    I will add that the solenoid connections are really corroded, but I thought it was all for the starter so it wouldn't relate to this. Correct me if Im wrong.

    Also, the start switch has never stopped this ski since Ive had it. If pressed while running, it would try to start. I have always used the lanyard to kill it.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayrod View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jayrod View Post
    Injector volts check out. Also, when I put the lanyard on, I can hear a clicking that's in rhythm with a spark. It sounds like its coming from the battery area. With lanyard off the clicking goes away.
    What do you mean by 'in rhythm' with the spark?

    Is it sparking only when you release the Start button? If so, the start solenoid would be clicking when the Start button is released.
    In rythhm, I mean if you have ever watched a spark plug spark while turning an engine over, the clicking would go right with that. Clicking at the same time you see a spark.

    It seems I may hear another, maybe a tad louder click when I release the start button. I can see no spark at the plug, ever.

    I will add that the solenoid connections are really corroded, but I thought it was all for the starter so it wouldn't relate to this. Correct me if Im wrong.

    Also, the start switch has never stopped this ski since Ive had it. If pressed while running, it would try to start. I have always used the lanyard to kill it.
    The original solenoids are know to corrode internally, and replacement with the newer design is always recommended. It is possible the engine is not cranking at full speed if the solenoid contacts are resistive.

    There is a thin red wire connection at the solenoid that feeds battery voltage to everything else. At the very least clean up the corrosion on the wires and studs, but my advice is to just replace that solenoid right away.

    The Start/Stop button not actually stopping the engine typically means the LR-503 module needs replacement.

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