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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Orlando, Florida

    Please, I need some guidance on putting a 04 waverunner xlt 1200 back together.

    This is my first time working on a jetski... I have no previous experience. Also, my first time writing on any forum.
    However, I am an Automotive Technician so, I decided to take on the task and fix it since I have all the tools and have always fix everything myself.

    Long story short, My sister took the ski to the lake and left it ON ( outside of the water for a few minutes ) until jetski started beeping.
    It is a 2004 Yamaha Waverunner 1200XLT with about 50 hours.

    I have already remove and visually inspect the exhaust, cylinders, lines and clamps from the oil injection pump and they were in good condition.
    ( I found a broken catalytic converter that I will replace with a D Plate ). ( I will be reusing the pistons and rings)

    My questions are:
    1) should I take the cylinders to the machine shop and get it machined to make sure they are straight? Or should I just install new gaskets?

    2) I been doing some research and it seems like buying wave eaters is the way to go. ( Have anybody tried the $30 wave eater from ebay? ).

    3) I have clean the block by sucking all the old oil and water. How do I know how much oil do I have to pour in the engine before closing everything up or what is the correct process ?

    Any help will be appreciate it... Thanks in advance.


  2. #2
    boudin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Houston, TX

    1) OEM cylinders are Nikasil plated and cannot be machined w/o redoing the plating. If they look fine to you (can't feel any scratches), then reuse them as-is. Post some pics of each jug and someone will help determine if they are sleeved or OEM. The fact you still had a CAT means it's likely you are first one into the motor, and the cylinders are probably OEM. Use new gaskets everywhere.

    2) Yes, wave eaters or SBT lever links. Clean the power valves while you are at it. After reassembly make sure the power valve controller is working.

    3) Usually best to pull the motor, split the crankcase and inspect the crank bearings for roughness. It sounds like the bearings had water in them, so use some fogging oil as you turn the bearings by hand. Search the forums here on reassembly tips.

    I PM'ed you a shop manual. Refer to it for crank specs, and also torque specs when reassembling.

    For piece of mind, many people delete the oil pump and go pre-mix. Should you choose to keep the pump, make sure the lines are soft and not brittle. Use a drill attached to the oil pump to check and make sure each line is flowing--it's common for the check valves to gum up. Refer to the shop manual for bleeding and oil pump adjustment. Double zip-tie the lines to the carbs, and then secure the lines with additional zip ties to the fuel lines. Tug on the lines to make sure they are snug on the carbs.

    Also a good time to go through the carbs. Use genuine Mikuni or Winderosa rebuild kits. The stock carbs are jetted very lean. Use this formula for jetting, needle seat w/flame arrestors (it will add about $300 to your build cost, but resolves the lean issue): Make sure the returns are clear or drill the returns:

    If you have more questions, search the forums first and then ask here.


  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Orlando, Florida
    Thanks a lot, I am on budget right now so will not be able to do the carb at the moment. The ski was running perfect so I think they could hold up for a little bit more. Definitely, I will do the D plate, wave eaters and all the gaskets. ( I am going to do a little more research on the oil pump to see if I could do it or not.)

    The ski had water on it for a short period the time when I had the water hose connected to it. I the same day a took it apart and after I was done I pour oil in the crankcase so it would not rust out.
    Last edited by The_Rookie; 08-12-2014 at 03:43 PM.

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