Thread: so the wife rolled the ski...
08-04-2014, 09:48 AM #1
so the wife rolled the ski...
yep.. finally get back out on the water and she rolls it. no idea how it happened but at least it wasn't to far from shore so i got to it within a few minutes.
got it rolled back over the correct way and it had about 4 or 5 inches of water in the hull. got it towed to the ramp, drained water from the hull. pulled the spark plugs and cranked it over. no water came out thank goodness.
since i had to get it home to pull the plugs i couldn't put it back in the water to run it so i hooked it up to the hose for a cpl mins and it idled at 1700 like it should. everything sounded normal, oil was clean, coolant looked good. i think it will be ok. no telling if this will cause anything electrical to creep up on me later. will have to wait and see.
the only downside is the seat is so waterlogged. ive had it standing on its end since getting it home. will add a fan blowing on it when i get home tonight.
08-04-2014, 10:02 AM #2
I never woulda thought of pulling the plugs in case of hydro lock. Good thinking!
08-04-2014, 10:03 AM #3
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Elephant Butte New Mexico
drying the waterlogged seat out is a bitch, since they won't fit in a microwave...now if you had a dehumidifier and a big box....
08-04-2014, 10:05 AM #4
when i fired it up after putting the plugs back in on the hose there was some white smoke, but not a ton. figure that was oil burning off from being in places it normally isnt.
08-04-2014, 10:13 AM #5
08-04-2014, 10:13 AM #6
Just a heads up. You dont want to run your ski for longer then 20-30 seconds on the hose. Carbon ring failure happens when it gets hot or if it gets misaligned. Running on trailer can cause premature wear on them.
4-5 inches of water in the hull and you towed it? I understand being cautious but thats not much water at all.
You should install a bilge with just a float switch in it. Since the batt is in the bow just run one wire to the back for 12 volts and then use a bolt on the engine for the ground. Dont put a manual switch, just the float and wire it straight to the battery. A 2 inch hole in the back above the platform will be the perfect height for the bilge. Let me see if have photos of this.
08-04-2014, 10:18 AM #7
the bailer system should have handled that much water pretty easy right?
yeah towed it because i didnt want to take any chances plus we were not far from the ramp. figured better safe than sorry.
08-04-2014, 10:26 AM #8
You don't need a float switch on the bilge pump. It can just stay running while you're driving it. Id hook it up to the key post with a relay
08-04-2014, 10:29 AM #9
rule 550 is perfect, and the standard float switch with a clip in bracket. 5200 the brackets down and then add the pump and float switch after it dries. I took my seadoos out of my fleet a few months ago and dont seem to have the photos for reference, but i have the exact same set up in my vx fleet and the float set up is the exact same, bildge on the left side, float on the right side. It doenst matter but thats how i have it wired.
this one came from one of my vx's its messy right now, but i have cleaned it up. Same layout tho. Note the coins on the float switch, that gives it just enough weigh to keep itself off when the boat is rocking and sitting in the water. For my multiple day rentals, this part is crucial, it keeps the float switch off unless it needs to turn on. The manufacture have some balast already built in it, but i have found that its not enough, and i have about 5 dead ski batteries to prove it....
but let me reiterate again, no manual switches. if you ever have problems with it, the result will be a water logged ski..dont risk it, Less mess of wires and less chance of needing it. Check to see that it works every time in your pre ride checks, and you're good to go. They are made to where you can lift the flopper all the way in the up position and they will lock in place for a simple manual switch.
08-04-2014, 10:31 AM #10
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