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  1. #1

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    Engine removal.. 06 RXT

    See this thread.. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=220698

    Ok, finally got these back home. Pulling the motor on the '06 RXT and got everything disconnected except the three engine mounts and the driveshaft. I have read a few threads saying you can take the motor in and out without removing the driveshaft and I have read some threads that say you cant, so which is it? That being said, I have already pulled the pump off the back as i wanted to have a look at the impeller anyway and I can grab the driveshaft and move it back and forth a few inches or so but it got dark so I will tackle the rest tomorrow. I also read a few threads that say you have to take the SC off to remove the engine. Is that true also?

    I suppose my questions would be:
    1. Do I have to take the SC off to remove the engine?
    2. Do I have to slide the DS out of the back to get the engine out? If so, how do I unhook it from the engine? If I can get the motor out, can I reinstall the engine with it in place?
    3. Would either way prevent realigning of the shaft with the special tools?

    I'm sure i will have many more questions soon! Not new to wrenching by any means, but new to these models!

    (obligatory pic included)
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  2. #2
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    getting the drive shaft out is.... IMO is the hardest part of pulling the motor
    getting the c clip off and then removing the shaft out of the pto bearing
    can be a pain in the butt

  3. #3

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    1. No.....But it makes it insanely easier compared to not taking it off......Just take it off its like 15 extra minutes 3 bolts 1 sucks 2 are easy. Gives you more access to the drive shaft lock ring.
    2. No.....You Do not "HAVE" to completely remove it by disengaging the C-clip under the ring but again its insanely easier if you do. It Can be compressed enough by pulling on the shaft and sliding the motor a bit forward will get the shaft disengaged from the PTO.....IT will take 2 people....at least it did when I did it the first time.

    Invest in the seadoo shaft tool:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It makes a motor removal a snap .......$80 bucks on ebay. There is 1 for SC Skis and 1 for N/A and 185sc skis.....its for compressing the C-clip ring back to expose and remove the C-clip so the shaft will come out and let you remove the motor......Just buy it....Dont try to do it the ghetto way its a PITA!!!!

    I've pulled a total of 6 motors and reinstalled them without a realignment but none of the motor mounts where changed or loosened on the hull side just the 3 engine bolts....I havent had any problems and 2 of them have passed 50 hrs without a problem.

  4. #4
    eb87's Avatar
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    I have this tool, also works great. I did the removal and installation once without the tool, never again.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-Driv...b6b46b&vxp=mtr

  5. #5
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    you tell him don't skimp and the next sentence you say don't worry...BS
    buy or rent the alignment tool! (buy a shim kit because you will need it)
    the rubber motor mounts get soft and let the motor sag, move exc.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by skidoochris View Post
    you tell him don't skimp and the next sentence you say don't worry...BS
    buy or rent the alignment tool! (buy a shim kit because you will need it)
    the rubber motor mounts get soft and let the motor sag, move exc.
    Where did I say Don't worry???

    I only conveyed my experience and the conditions in which it was done.

  7. #7

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    Thanks and I will absolutely get the tool, ( and the alignment tools) but I'm not totally clear on what needs to be done to get the driveshaft disconnected. I took the SC off and this is where I am at. - see picture. Which part needs to move to uncover the circlip? and more importantly, does the pump have to be installed on the back end while using either on of the above mentioned tools?

    If I am thinking correctly, the dished collar on the right slides back towards the carbon ring to uncover the circlip. Once I get that off, then the DS will slide out the back leaving the collar and carbon ring and bellows behind? I have already taken the pump off so is that ok, or do i need to reinstall it for clip removal so I have something to pry against??

    Sorry for all the nOOb questions!
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  8. #8
    canuck's Avatar
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    The easiest way is to put a couple of nuts in the end of the impeller, approx 3/4" thick, then reinstall the pump. This will push the driveshaft forward and make it easier to slide the dished collar back. You need the pump installed to stop the driveshaft moving backwards even if you have the proper tool.

  9. #9

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    The good news..

    Got the driveshaft out and then pulled the motor a little while ago. I made a plate that goes across the pump bolts that looks very similar to the factory special tool and used a small 2x4 and a big screwdriver/prybar and mimicked the special tool motion and the sleeve popped right back, and popped the circlip off in less than 5 minutes.

    The bad news....

    Started taking it apart and noticed the culprit.. Yes that's a huge crack in the block! I think with a little JB Weld and some duck-tape I'll be good to go.
    I got the PTO, exhaust and the oil pump off and will pull the head tomorrow. Anybody got a short block for sale???

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  10. #10

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    Looks like it spun a rod bearing, broke the bearing cap off and eventually worked its way to the other side of the crank where it promptly pushed it out the side of the case..

    All of the bearings appear to be really worn. What is the usual life of these engines before they need a rebuild? This had @127 hours on it.
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