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  1. #1

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    NewB - I have read what I could find but still have questions - 1994 SLT

    Hello, what a great place to find! Excellent info floating around in here. I recently acquired a '94 SLT and it APPEARS completely unmolested. Has 120lb compression on all 3, all wiring is intact. Looks like they have replaced a couple plug wires and the battery, but that's about it. It runs, but the guy said it tops out about 30 and then is kinda on and off. Sounds like the fuel issues they apparently are known for. I have read everything on here that I could find that might apply to my model. I still have a few questions. I will ask them all here, but if I should start a new thread for each just let me know and I can do that.

    1. I intend to upgrade to the 3 outlet pump. Can someone point me in the right direction of where to order a kit that has the lines and all? (yes I still have my restrictor) I will be replacing all fuel lines as well. Can someone tell me where to get the lines that are internal to the tank?

    2. I noticed in some of the plumbing pics on here that there should be a vent and an air intake on the tank separated by a tee. Mine has a valve of some sort in the tank and just a hose coming out, no external valves. The valve in the tank doesn't seem to limit airflow either way so I assume it is a rollover valve and fuel would close it? Should I leave all that as is or make mine look like the pics?

    3. I assume this thing has the 38 carbs on it. I disassembled them and everything looks perfect in them, but I guess I should kit them anyway for peace of mind. Where to get a complete kit with associated gaskets? (the visual how to on the kit on this site is great, but I am a little nervous about removing the hi and lo speed mixture screws simply because it doesn't ever address putting and setting them back)

    4. Two sets of reeds look great and seal off well. However, on the last set the reeds don't close completely - none of them. So, I guess I will be changing at least that set if not all 3. The question is this: I noticed on the black plastic piece that the reeds seal on - there are numbers stamped on them. Two of the holders (coincidentally the two that are seating well) have "4.4" stamped on them. The last one has "4.2" stamped on it. Is this normal?

    5. Once I removed the intake, down in the side of the crankcase where the intake runners flow, each of the runners had a glob of silicone in the middle of it. All three globs were loose so I removed them. Underneath them were holes (one in each runner). There appears to be a piece of metal on the back side so I assume the globs are just to seal the void between the two pieces? This is the only thing I was very unsure of...

    6. Is it just me or did these things not come with a bilge?

    7. Is the recommendation to leave the oil injection system intact or block it and mix?

    Any and help/direction is greatly appreciated.
    Thank you in advance,
    BL


  2. #2
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by BeeEl View Post
    Hello, what a great place to find! Excellent info floating around in here. I recently acquired a '94 SLT and it APPEARS completely unmolested. Has 120lb compression on all 3, all wiring is intact. Looks like they have replaced a couple plug wires and the battery, but that's about it. It runs, but the guy said it tops out about 30 and then is kinda on and off. Sounds like the fuel issues they apparently are known for. I have read everything on here that I could find that might apply to my model. I still have a few questions. I will ask them all here, but if I should start a new thread for each just let me know and I can do that.

    1. I intend to upgrade to the 3 outlet pump. Can someone point me in the right direction of where to order a kit that has the lines and all? www.watcon.com (yes I still have my restrictor) I will be replacing all fuel lines as well. Can someone tell me where to get the lines that are internal to the tank? I prefer to use Tygon lines for the inside of the fuel tank. Search 1/4" ID Tygon on ebay, or check your local lawn mower repair shop.

    2. I noticed in some of the plumbing pics on here that there should be a vent and an air intake on the tank separated by a tee. Mine has a valve of some sort in the tank and just a hose coming out, no external valves. The valve in the tank doesn't seem to limit airflow either way so I assume it is a rollover valve and fuel would close it? There are two valves. One lets air in, and is not connected to any other lines. The other lets air and should be connected to a vent hood in the hull somewhere around the steering. Should I leave all that as is or make mine look like the pics?i PUt it back the way it is supposed to be.

    3. I assume this thing has the 38 carbs on it. I disassembled them and everything looks perfect in them, but I guess I should kit them anyway for peace of mind. Where to get a complete kit with associated gaskets? (the visual how to on the kit on this site is great, but I am a little nervous about removing the hi and lo speed mixture screws simply because it doesn't ever address putting and setting them back) When you reinstall the needles, screw them in all the way until they are lightly seated. Then back them out the number of turns specified in the manual.

    4. Two sets of reeds look great and seal off well. However, on the last set the reeds don't close completely - none of them. So, I guess I will be changing at least that set if not all 3. The question is this: I noticed on the black plastic piece that the reeds seal on - there are numbers stamped on them. Two of the holders (coincidentally the two that are seating well) have "4.4" stamped on them. The last one has "4.2" stamped on it. Is this normal? Haven't looked closely enough to notice this before.... Will have to look at some of mine...

    5. Once I removed the intake, down in the side of the crankcase where the intake runners flow, each of the runners had a glob of silicone in the middle of it. All three globs were loose so I removed them. Underneath them were holes (one in each runner). There appears to be a piece of metal on the back side so I assume the globs are just to seal the void between the two pieces? This is the only thing I was very unsure of.. The globs of silicone are crankcase sealant. Those three holes contain crankcase bolts from the underside of the motor. The sealant was pushed out when the bolts were installed. This is normal.

    6. Is it just me or did these things not come with a bilge? No bilge pump. You have two bilge tubes. The were clear lines, and should hang in the hull above the jet pump. There is a 90 degree elbow connect the lines. The ends have mesh screens and are affixed to the bottom of the hull. The other end connects to fittings at the jet pump.

    7. Is the recommendation to leave the oil injection system intact or block it and mix? The pumps are quite reliable as long as the hoses have been updated and you check to make sure they are properly attached at regular intervals.

    Any and help/direction is greatly appreciated.
    Thank you in advance,
    BL

  3. #3
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Welcome to GH!

    Everyone's first Polaris... a good ole 750!

    120 compression in each cylinder is good. Remove the autocock and replace the single outlet fuel pump with a triple outlet.

    1. You can find new Mikuni triple outlet fuel pumps (the round ones) for good prices on ebay. There are a few "kits" too that come with fuel hoses and clamps to fully replace the single outlet pump. The rest of the fuel line in the ski you can replace with good locally-sourced automotive 1/4" fuel line. It does NOT need to be fuel injection (high pressure) hose. Be sure to move the restrictor over to the new return line.

    2. '94 SLTs have a different fuel tank venting than the updated '95 SLTs. Look for a '95 diagram and makes your like that. Off the single vent port on the top of the fuel tank... there is a single hose. This hose then Tees where one side goes to a typical check-valve that lets air IN as fuel level drops. The other side goes to a check-valve that lets air OUT (fuel expansion in the heat) and goes to fitting on the hull to vent the fuel fumes out of the hull.

    3. Yes... you should rebuild the carbs... that they look clean and rust free is a bonus. John Ziggler at WATCON (dot com) is a great source for Mikuni carb rebuild kit. He offers a special Polaris triple carb Mikuni rebuild kit with everything you need. Hi/Low speed adjusters are easy to set. You'll put new o-rings on them (in rebuild kit)... then gently thread them in until the seat/stop. Then back them out the set number of turns to get the stock settings. Easy.

    4. If the reeds are intact, not chipped, not missing any corners... it's okay if they don't fully seal/press shut. I've heard that there is a 10-thou inch gap (.010") acceptable... someone please correct me if wrong. If they are stock reeds... I've also read you can flip them over and they'll be okay too. If the gap is too big... you might consider replacing. I'm not sure about any #s on them. I've always just used what came in mine without any worry.

    5. I too seem to remember this glob of sealant too in mine. Just make sure whatever they covered is still sealed and don't loose any sleep. Do a "leak-down" test when your done on your engine. That will ensure it's air-tight.

    6. No electric bilge pump stock. The SLTs have 2 siphon bilge pumps... the clear/greenish tubes. Keep the ends of the tubes open/clean... keep the lines clear... ensure the 90 deg elbow has a tiny hole in it that's not clogged... and keep the elbow up high in the ski. These work well anytime the pump is flowing.

    7. The Polaris fuel injection pump is reliable... the hoses are the weak link. Ensure your hoses and filter) are all subtle (not stiff and crackable) and properly secured and you should be fine. I like the oil injection... uses less oil than premixing.

    Cheers!

  4. #4

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    All right, I think I've got all this so far. I assume there are places most people order from to get the oil injection filter. My problem is I have no local dealer. I figure a local auto parts inline fuel filter will work on my fuel line. What about the filter inside the tank? What's the recommendation there? Whoever has the oil injection filter should also have the fuel tank venting pieces I will need. I will begin my search for tygon tank lines, so what line is recommended for the oil lines?

  5. #5
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Places I buy from... I don't use dealers... Watcon, SBT, ebay, Amazon...

    You should have no trouble finding PWC fuel and oil filters (a quick ebay search "Polaris PWC filter" turned up some). I've used Tygon hoses for oil lines... and regular rubber gas hoses for fuel lines. The little check valve vents... search ebay.. even used ones would be fine. You can test them with your mouth... only a couple psi cracking pressure.

    The filter/weight on the lines in the fuel tank... I just cleaned and resued mine. It's more a pickup weight than filter. Do make sure those lines are good. Reserve is the longest. Replaced hoses here need to be okay living in gas... hopefully your stock ones are okay.

    Cheers!

  6. #6
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    I like this site. partsland.com Good people, fair prices. There are two oil filters out there. One is $15, one is $7. I recommend the one for $7 .

    I only use Tygon inside the gas tank as it can live in fuel and is very flexible with no memory retention. With the clunks on the ends you want the lines to be able to move around freely in the tank as the ski rocks.

    I use regular grade automotive fuel hose. Go to your local auto parts store, not an Autozone or Advance Auto or O'reilly's, and ask for the house pricing on a roll of 1/4" line. They sell to auto repair shops at a discount. The last roll I picked up was about .94 cents per foot. Get your NGK plugs there too. Should be less than $2.50 per plug.

    The air inlet vent piece is no longer avilable, so you will have to find a used one. The one way vent outlet is still available. Partsland can get it for you.

    Add things like drive shaft bumpers and O rings to your order at Partsland or wherever to consolidate and save on shipping. Most of the small parts are only a couple of bucks each, but if ordered separately, will carry a $7-10 shipping charge.

    For instance, shopsbt.com tacks on $10 for shipping when you order three water rail gaskets so they can send you their full catalogue at no cost to them....... Not that I would know.....

  7. #7

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    then gently thread them in until the seat/stop. Then back them out the set number of turns to get the stock settings
    Can anyone tell me where to find the stock settings?

  8. #8
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    1994 SL750/SLT750
    Carburetor Type - Mikuni Super BN
    Size - 38 mm w/34 mm venturi
    Main Jet - #90
    Pilot Jet - #75
    High Speed Screw - 1 1/4M, 3/8C, 7/8P (M=mag/front, C=center, P=power take off/rear)
    Low Speed Screw - 1/2 turn (all)
    Idle Speed (in water) - 1200-1300 RPM
    Needle & Seat
    Pop Off Pressure - 10-18 PSI

    Tons of Polaris PWC info here: http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/

    Cheers!

  9. #9

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    Awesome! Thank you so much
    I ordered the tygon, carb kits, fuel pump, gaskets, tank vent(s), and tee, and oil filter. I also ordered some 1/8 tygon for the oil lines. Will be getting 1/4 fuel lines and filter locally.
    Fingers crossed...
    Thanks again to all!

  10. #10

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    I'll be digging through that site now. One thing I would like to clarify, those carb settings - I find it strange they are so vastly different but that's fine. My question is, do those same settings apply now that I will be feeding each carb individually as opposed to the stock setup? Fingers crossed I don't have to change them from stock settings! I'll be curious to see how those mixture screws actually come out. One of them (can't remember which one) has a sort of keeper on it that only allows for about 1/4 turn adjustment. I haven't fully investigated how to get it out, but I will.

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