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  1. #1

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    Engine rebuild time.. what parts needed?

    Some of you have been following my saga and I decided to go ahead and fix my new to me '05 RXT. (-Short version--I purchased an '05 RXT that spun a rod bearing and put a rod through the side of the block.)

    I have purchased a used '06 block with crank. It is currently at the machine shop getting bored 1 over due to some minor pitting from water ingestion. I will be using the '05 head as it is fine. I want this to go back together with reliability over high performance.

    Parts I have/will order:

    For bottom half:
    1. crank bearings and ring halfs
    2. rod bearings
    3. countershaft bearings and ring halfs
    4. oversize pistons, rings x3
    5. connecting rods, circlips, piston journals x3
    6. timing chain and guides
    7. TTY main bolts

    For top half:
    8. TTY head bolts

    If needed:
    9. Exhaust valves x6
    10. >'05 rocker arm shaft
    11. TTY rocker shaft bolts

    A few questions...

    Since I have an '06 block with no oil restricter is it correct that all I need is a newer style rocker arm shaft? (that would warrant numbers 10, 11)

    Is updating the exhaust valves critical? I have heard horror stories but not sure if it has been blown out of proportion or not. There are countless 150+ hour skis out there that have never had an issue, but I do fall along the lines of preventative 'while I'm in there' upgrades as well.

    Of course i will rebuild the SC and get all of the needed gaskets and clean the oil pumps and such but is there anything else I am overlooking?

    Thanks in advance..


  2. #2
    canuck's Avatar
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    If you are this far in and building for reliability I would replace all the valves.

    I would also consider ARP head studs instead of the oem head bolts.

    Use ARP bolts or the newest BRP kit for the flywheel bolts.

  3. #3
    suck my wake's Avatar
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    Make sure you have the crank checked to make sure all the journals are round and not oblong'd, If the motor has ever been hydro-locked the crank journal can get damaged and still look fine to the naked eye

  4. #4

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    The machine shop is checking the crank, but it wasnt running when water got inside the cylinders. What about the exhaust valves and rocker arm shaft? Can anyone confirm if 420854594 is the correct newer shaft and 295501047 the newer solid exhaust valves? Or is there a way to tell them apart from the older style?

  5. #5
    What do you think will be your final cost?

  6. #6
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    If the block/crank is good I think when I priced my rebuild out it was right around $1200 just in parts. Add machine shop work on top and the price goes up from there. I was talking with Scott and I think a seadoo long block is mid 2k.... Makes you wonder.

  7. #7
    suck my wake's Avatar
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    A brand new bare block from sea-doo is $2000, a long block is $7800.........The rebuild is much cheaper, average out between $1200-$2000 for parts depending on if you go with new pistons and another $500 or so for machine work and those numbers don't include any labor so if you can't do it yourself add another $600-$1000 depending

  8. #8
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by suck my wake View Post
    A brand new bare block from sea-doo is $2000, a long block is $7800.........The rebuild is much cheaper, average out between $1200-$2000 for parts depending on if you go with new pistons and another $500 or so for machine work and those numbers don't include any labor so if you can't do it yourself add another $600-$1000 depending
    Seadoo remanufactured long block is around $2500... I think Riva has a part number for it.

  9. #9
    suck my wake's Avatar
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    420150338 **ENGINE LONG BLOCK, 1503 SCIC ETC 1 7,872.99**
    Here is the part number straight off Riva's site, if you can get a new oem long block for $2500 you should stock up on them!
    Re-man's are closer to 5k

  10. #10

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    I checked prices before I made my decision on which way to go. Remans are right at $3K for a long block from BRP. Problem is you have to have a good core which i did not. That would have brought me up closer to $4,500 so I decided to go the rebuild route. I found a used case and crank but the case ended up needing a 1 over bore due to pitting from standing water that was left in the cylinder so by the time I add up all the machine work and new parts I am sitting around $3,200. $180.00 in machine work, $700 for used case and crank and roughly $2,300 in new parts.. ouch....

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