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  1. #1
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Post Your Technical Information Here

    If you have any information you'd like to post in the technical section, please post it here and I will move it to its appropriate location.
    I will remove the post once it's dropped into its new location.

    JPEG and Word is better than PDF as I want to install the document so that you see your document and not a file or attachment. I can easily convert it, it's just easier.

    Thanks to ALL that have and will participate in this section!!!


  2. #2
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    starter system testing
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  3. #3

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    Nashville, TN
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    Touch up paint mixing

    I mixed up some touch up paint for my ski and realized that my color theory classes came in handy. I thought I might just put a couple of tips for mixing colors. I learned this stuff 10 years ago so if I am wrong please correct me.

    Every color has 3 properties:

    Hue - Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Purple and anything between

    Chroma - How vivid is this color (orange is higher in chroma than brown although they share the same hue)

    Value - How bright or dark is the color (sometimes called shade, Pink is a bright value red, to find a darker value of any color just dim the light or cast a shadow on it)

    Sheen - We wont mess with sheen (satin gloss flat...)


    Step 1 acheive your hue

    My problem area was purple so I started with 20 drops of Diaxazine Purple 3 drops of Acra Violet and 3 drops of Ph. Blue (I like to measure my colors so I can mix the same color later if I need it again) Start with very small amounts of paint.

    I found my hue but since the plastic was slightly sun faded my chroma was too bright

    Step 2 correct your chroma

    To make purple a lower chroma most people would instinctually add black or white but this would change the value not the chroma. To lessen the chroma you want to look across the color wheel



    and add the opposite hue. In my case the correct hue was yellow. I used canary yellow. A little will go a long way.

    Step 3 Adjust the value

    This is where you can use white or black. If the value needs to be darker add black lighter add white. This may appear to shift your hue, it probably won't actually shift it but it might expose mistakes you made earlier. If the white I added made my purple look a little too blue I would just add a LITTLE red.

    Value will shift 10% darker once the paint dries, this is why they blow dry your paint at the hardware store to show you the color. (and probably to keep it off of your clothes) Mix your paint slightly lighter in value than the surface you are painting and it should dry in the neighborhood.

    I guess enamels would work best in the water??

  4. #4
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
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    Polaris 1996 Assembly instructions. Thought this was neat.

    page 1-4

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  5. #5
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
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    ^^^^

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  6. #6
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
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    Info from manual on the MFD.

    Attachment 19263

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  7. #7
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
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    Wiring diagram for 96 SLT 780



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  8. #8
    absentx's Avatar
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    homemade piston pin puller

    Just a trip to the hardware store for this one.
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  9. #9
    Bing-A-Ding-Ding-Ding, Brrrrrap! Brrrrrrrrrap!!! Polaris_Nut#1's Avatar
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    Hurricane update kit for 96's

    .
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  10. #10

    How I fixed my Mfd(round style)

    1)Well first i went out in the garage and dusted off my old Foredom flex shaft rotary tool that I havent used in about 12 years(used to use to port cylinders).
    2)If you look at the mfd lens sideways to the screen you can see the depth or thickness of the lens. So i cut the casing with a thin cutoff wheel with the rotary tool where i figured the bottom of the lens would be. I then made a mark in the casing for a timing mark so it would go back together with the right indexing so everything would fit right.
    3)Then with a pair of very thin screw drivers i pried the lens out of the gauge housing(i actually had cut the housing at the right depth to let me get under the lens).
    4)I then removed the lens/display/circuit board assy and unplugged it from the gauge body.
    5)Then I removed the 4 screws from the lens/board and seperated the pieces being very careful when seperating the ribbon from the board.
    6)I then cleaned the rubber connectors where they mated with the circuit board. and then cleaned the circuit board where the rubber connector makes contact. (on the rubber conector and the mating surface on the circuit board, I finished by swabbing with BRP lube-water displacing anti corrosive.)
    7)I reassembled the lens/display/circuit board-again very carefull with the ribbon. I swabed the plug pins with Brp lube, and plugged in the circuit board assy with the gauge housing and sealed the lens to the housing with clear silicone sealant.
    9)then i positioned the cut piece of housing back onto the gauge and set a weight on the back of the gauge with the lens sitting flat on my desk overnight.
    10)lastly i used black electrical tapeto wrap around the circumference of the face(perfect size-width)to help hide where i had cut into the body.

    It turned out really well-even cosmetically-you cant see where i cut the housing unless you are looking for it when installed in the Pwc.
    I hope this helps others.

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