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  1. #1
    ghost_recon88's Avatar
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    2000 SLX 1200 has no spark, how to diagnose?

    Bought a 2000 SLX 1200 from a guy knowing it didn't ran, he said his mechanic thinks its the CDI box ($500 these days ). I get no spark at all, pulled all 3 plugs out of the cylinders, turned off the lights, and turned over. The MFD shows something, but I see no spark from any plugs. Tried with just one plug connected, no difference. The bottom part of the MFD looks like some water got in there, that wouldn't prevent a spark though would it?

    The lowdown:
    -New 12v battery (tests around 12v on the terminals when cranking over)
    -New stator (according to previous owner)
    -New spark plugs (BR8ES I believe)
    -New 1/4 and 3 amp fuses in the electronics box, also used contact cleaner to clean all the corrosion off the contacts
    -Bilge pumps runs just fine, hold down both the bilge and start buttons to override, still no spark
    -Won't even turn over without the safety wrist harness clipped on, so I know that is not shorting it out

    Polaris doesn't make the updated electronic boxes anymore, one guy left on eBay selling them for an outrageous $500 a pop. I've read the following threads.

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=199600

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=176605

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=172107

    http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=367045

    Would I have the symptoms I'm getting if the voltage regular was bad? Just wondering what else I can try and replace before dropping all the cash on a new CDI.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Unplug the Deutsch connector from the back of the MFD. Sometimes a dead display can affect ignition.

    Disconnect the CDI Black/Yellow wire. This is the ignition kill signal, when grounded the CDI will not fire.

    Disconnect the LR module, just for testing. You may have to use the Bilge button to provide power to the CDI. Where does the Red/Purple wire from the CDI connect to?

    Check that all the Black wires inside the electrical box have zero ohms to the engine case. Disconnect battery negative cable before testing the ohms.

    Reconnect battery, put meter at CDI power feed wires. Between Red/Purple and Black at the CDI must be well over 10.6 volts while the engine is cranking.

    If still no spark, unplug the Brown wire inline bullet connector. Connect meter red probe to Brown output from CDI. Should show about 8 volts when engine is cranking.

  3. #3
    barto's Avatar
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    If you want a hand working on it this weekend let me know. The drummond trip isn't going to happen.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by FichtEMMRepair.com View Post
    Hello I can fix your cdi as long as it is the red cdi having trouble fixing the black new style. Just give me a call thanks Harris 615-707-1273
    Really? You have been able to successfully repair CDIs? Any more info you can offer about this?

  5. #5
    ghost_recon88's Avatar
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    Alright so got around to testing a few things this morning.

    -Unplugging the MFD, resulted in no difference however it was left unplugged for the rest of these tests.

    -Performed the CDI warm-restart update just in case (red/purple wire to orange terminal).

    -Getting 8 volts on the brown CDI wire when cranking over with car battery hooked up.

    -Did the ignition coil test (from here http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post1110101) and got nowhere near .35 ohms per wire. It was up around .8 for two of them, and one had between 8-10 ohms.

    At this point, since the CDI is able to put out 8v on the brown wire when turning over, is it safe to assume the CDI is good and we could be looking at an ignition coil failure? Is there any other way to test the CDI? Online I've found an updated ignition coil (part 4010342) but it appears I may need updated spark plug wires to work with it and that would run $230 for the set. How many volts should I be getting at the end of each spark plug wire in order to fire the plugs?

  6. #6
    barto's Avatar
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    We also tested with the black/yellow disconnected from cdi. We weren't quite sure how to fully bypass the lr module.

  7. #7
    barto's Avatar
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    I just found your instructions to bypass LR module. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...05#post1550079
    Last edited by barto; 08-30-2014 at 06:35 PM. Reason: Wrong link.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by barto View Post
    I just found your instructions to bypass LR module. http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...05#post1550079
    Your engine has a simple LR voltage regulator module, not the more complicated LR Start/Stop module.

    To disconnect your LR voltage regulator module all you do is unplug all the wires from the module. That is all.

  9. #9
    ghost_recon88's Avatar
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    Any tips on how to reconnect the spark plug wires to the ignition coil. Epic pain in the ass trying to get them off, eventually enough tugging and they popped off. Now trying to install the replacement ignition coil I got, and holy man there is no room to maneuver them in there even with the stator and CDI out of the shell. I see tiny pins on each wire, but how on earth are you supposed to get them in place to lock once the cable is hooked up? Youtube has no videos and this is the only thread with pictures I could find: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=143927

  10. #10
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    Push really hard until they snap firmly into place. They will snap on somewhat easily, but they need to go a step further and snap in firmly after that yet.

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