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  1. #1

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    SLH 700 no spark after rebuild.

    Hey All. I had just rebuilt the bottom end on my SLH 700 and put the engine back in and went to fire up and didn't want to start. Had some spark for a while but then it was gone. Now I have none and have been troubleshooting for a while. Charged the battery up and still none. I bought a new battery and still none. I got frustrated and just quit working on it for a couple weeks and now I am back at it. When I push the bilge button I still don't have any spark.
    I have noticed lately that the voltage is always low when ever I work on it so tonight I started checking all my connections and then grounds. I noticed that when I was putting the ground cable back on the crank case there was a big voltage draw. Makes me think I have a dead short somewhere so I am going to continue searching for any pinched wires under the engine and such.
    Does anyone have any ideas for a couple trouble areas to check first?
    Thanks
    Brad


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Ohm check all the stator wires, especially the Yellow and Red/Purple wires. See my signature links for the exact ohm values for the Gen III stator. Stator coils are checked while disconnected from the electrical box terminals.

    If the LR module has failed that can cause a current drain. After testing the stator disconnect the LR module. With Bilge button held down the engine should start and run without the LR module connected. No battery charging without LR module, of course.

    Make sure the battery polarity is not connected backwards.

  3. #3

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    OK. I did the stator tests other than I didn't have a 9v battery and all of the hall effect sensors have an open connection. I removed the LR module and installed the neg battery cable up and went to hook up the other end of the neg cable to the crank case and there was still a big voltage draw. This makes me think there is still a short. Am I wrong about this because I know there was always a draw because you guys say to not fiddle around when hooking up the neg battery cable because the sparks can short thing out?

  4. #4

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    OK. I hooked the battery up anyways and without the LR module hooked up and pushing the bilge button I still have no spark.
    Grrrrrrrrr.

  5. #5

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    One other thing I just thought of is in the past while troubleshooting is when hooking up the neg battery cable the 1/4 amp fuse in the panel lights up until you get the cable on secure.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad brad 22 View Post
    One other thing I just thought of is in the past while troubleshooting is when hooking up the neg battery cable the 1/4 amp fuse in the panel lights up until you get the cable on secure.
    Fuses do not 'light up' except for the instant before they blow due to overload.

    Are you sure you have the battery polarity correct?

  7. #7

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    Yes. Absolutely. Only place I cant see is on the starter but I don't think that could be backwards.
    Any guesses on an obvious short?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad brad 22 View Post
    Yes. Absolutely. Only place I cant see is on the starter but I don't think that could be backwards.
    Any guesses on an obvious short?
    I have seen the starter cable connected to the wrong place on the starter motor.

  9. #9

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    Will the motor still turn over if its backwards?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad brad 22 View Post
    ... installed the neg battery cable up and went to hook up the other end of the neg cable to the crank case and there was still a big voltage draw. This makes me think there is still a short. Am I wrong about this because I know there was always a draw because you guys say to not fiddle around when hooking up the neg battery cable because the sparks can short thing out?
    How are you disconnecting and reconnecting the battery?

    Normally the negative battery cable is always connected to the engine (ground). Typically only the battery end of the negative cable is removed when disconnecting the battery.

    Same for the red positive battery cable. One end goes to the electrical box, and stays connected inside to the start solenoid stud. The battery end of the heavy red cable is disconnected from the positive post after the negative cable has been removed from the battery.

    When reconnecting the battery, first the red cable is connected to the positive post. Then the black cable is connected to the negative battery post.

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