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  1. #1

    94 SL 650 Sparks once in a great while

    I have a Polaris SL 650 its a 94 I have put a different stator in it that I know works didn't change anything I put 2 different CDI's in it didn't change a thing cleaned up ground and relocated didn't change a thing different coils didn't change it'll spark a couple times if I hit the start button repeatedly really fast I was wondering if the regulator rectifier or the switch-rectifier could cause this issue if I am not mistaken I believe these are used in some way for the rev limiter any help would be appreciated thanks


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Have you checked the ohms of each stator coil to verify it is actually still good?
    Disconnect all stator wires to check coil ohms. Test details can be found via my signature links.

    Make very sure the Black stator wire is intact and has zero ohms to engine case.

    Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the CDI. This is the ignition kill signal from the handlebar. See if engine now has spark.

    What are the part numbers on the CDI and the stator?

  3. #3
    jajardas's Avatar
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    I think I read on here that you need to have a good battery. If it sparks when you let off on the start button the battery is weak because it does not have enough volts to crank and supply current to the ignition system. Start by checking the voltage on the battery when you are cranking it.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jajardas View Post
    I think I read on here that you need to have a good battery. If it sparks when you let off on the start button the battery is weak because it does not have enough volts to crank and supply current to the ignition system. Start by checking the voltage on the battery when you are cranking it.
    It is true that a strong battery is important. A weak battery can cause all sorts of misleading diagnostics. A strong battery will provide more than 10.6 volts while the engine is cranking. Use a multimeter at the battery terminals to check voltage while cranking.

    The blue Fuji engines do not depend directly on battery voltage to fire the ignition, but a strong battery ensures the engine is turning fast enough for the magneto ignition to work.

    The red domestic carburetor engines do have a specific minimum battery voltage while cranking or no spark.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jajardas View Post
    I think I read on here that you need to have a good battery. If it sparks when you let off on the start button the battery is weak because it does not have enough volts to crank and supply current to the ignition system. Start by checking the voltage on the battery when you are cranking it.
    It is true that a strong battery is important. A weak battery can cause all sorts of misleading diagnostics. A strong battery will provide more than 10.6 volts while the engine is cranking. Use a multimeter at the battery terminals to check voltage while cranking.

    The blue Fuji engines do not depend directly on battery voltage to fire the ignition, but a strong battery ensures the engine is turning fast enough for the magneto ignition to work.

    The red domestic carburetor engines do have a specific minimum battery voltage while cranking or no spark.
    The black yellow wire has been unplugged the whole time I have 11.4 volts when cranking
    Red purple to yellow .9
    white yellow to black .210 k
    blue red to red white 88.3
    red white to green red .453 k
    Tested all grounds and go to 0
    red purple to black OL
    yellow to black OL
    red white to black OL
    I have .3 going from black to battery ground cable

  6. #6
    CDI P/N F8T16274 and unsure of the stator P/N

  7. #7
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    What about the ignition coils? They should be tested as well.

    Check continuity from the Motor block to the battery ground. I'll have to check my black wire to battery ground, but there really shouldn't be much resistance here. The black wire takes a direct path to ground and is what gives the CDI it's ground. The .3 reading may be suspect......

  8. #8
    I have pulled the coils off a running sl 750 and put them in there it didn't change a thing I believed that was an issue because they did ohm at like .3 and I seen that should be .6 that's the black to black white the ground issue I am going to look into right away but i have ran jumper wires from battery to E box same ground bolt as CDI to make sure it had a good ground and I put a jumper to the motor as well to try and eliminate any grounding issues but still had not work witch leads me back to the regulator rectifier and switch-rectifier the sl 750 has only the regulator rectifier and it will not interchange

  9. #9
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jboom View Post
    I have pulled the coils off a running sl 750 and put them in there it didn't change a thing I believed that was an issue because they did ohm at like .3 and I seen that should be .6 that's the black to black white the ground issue I am going to look into right away but i have ran jumper wires from battery to E box same ground bolt as CDI to make sure it had a good ground and I put a jumper to the motor as well to try and eliminate any grounding issues but still had not work witch leads me back to the regulator rectifier and switch-rectifier the sl 750 has only the regulator rectifier and it will not interchange
    The regulator / rectifier will not affect spark. It only affects the charging system and operation of the accessories (MFD, trim, bilge). The LR-(regulator) module doesn't directly interface with rev limiting. A different LR module handles that function and has a gray wire connected to the CDI. None of the 650 and/or 750 skis have rev limiting.

    Are you sure you have a 650 stator installed, as opposed to a 94 or later 750 or 780? Is it OEM or aftermarket?

    The impedance on the black wire may be bypassed by jumping from the negative battery post to the ebox, but that does not correct why there is resistance on the black wire. The wire must be traced all the way back to the stator to ensure that all wires are indeed intact.

    Stators can be bad even when all readings are within tolerance.

  10. #10
    The stator I installed was from a 94 sl 750 with all the same wires it was a running ski when I tore it down

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