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  1. #1

    98 Yamaha GP760 few questions

    im new to this site and also to the jetski life i guess im okay when it comes to engines and what not if things are explained to me i usually pick it up.. okay any way ive looked at a few threads to see if any one was having any of the same issues as me ut i didnt find any.. i have 98 yamaha gp760 i bought it off of a guy that had rebuilt the carbs it has about 110 hours on so he told me.. it sounded like he knew what he was talking about he owns a few other skis.

    i guess my first question is, when i start the jetski it sounds like the idle is too low it will stall out of im not on the gas at least a little bit, does that sound like the idle needs to be turned up? if so where and how can i turn it up?

    second question how much oil is a jetski supposed to burn? i had pretty much a full tank of oil before i went out today and i noticed after a few hours my warning light came on for low oil (no loud beep like ive read on other threads ) i looked and there was about 1/4 tank of oil left, i know its supposed to burn some oil but i didnt thank that much? i feel like there is a leak in the oil line bc i do see spurts of blue oil on the bottom in the engine compartment, and i feel it on the line its self at the connecting points.

    i pulled the air intake ( i guess thats what its called its covering the carbs) to see if the choke thing was working, which is wasn't but any way i saw blue liquid in there as well is that bad or good?


    one more there thing.. there is no hour gauge on the clock side of the dash i cycled through all the screens with the button any ideas for that?

    its alot of questions i know im sorry but if any one can answer any of the questions that would be great thanks!


  2. #2
    Myself's Avatar
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    1, idle screw is on forward carb with a T handle. DO NOT confuse it with a low speed mixture adjuster which also has a T handle.

    2, Seems like the 760 uses more oil than other engines for some reason. I run all my skis 40:1 premix. If it's not fouling plugs I guess it's probably consuming more due to the leak that's leaving oil in the hull. You need to figure out where it's leaking or it could cost you an engine.

    3, the blue oil pumps into the flame arrestor assembly then dribbles down into the carbs. Normal

    4, hour gauge should be on the display. Maybe it's burnt out?

  3. #3
    idle should be around 1100-1300 rpm, you can use a tachometer to check this

  4. #4
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    Last edited by Ajhanson96; 09-22-2014 at 02:48 PM.

  5. #5
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    Last edited by Ajhanson96; 09-22-2014 at 02:49 PM.

  6. #6
    If you change your oil lines out, make sure to use the oil bleed screw located on the bottom of the oil pump itself to chase the air out of the new lines before firing up. You want to make sure oil is as close to the carbs as possible after changing lines.

    An easy way to do it instead of trying to bleed the air out of the lines would be to remove the 2 bolts that hold on your oil pump, remove it, connect your drill to the key on the reverse side of the oil pump and turn it in the same direction as the crank turns (can't remember off hand). Have your flame arrestor lid and screen off so you can see when oil starts to squirt out of the oil line nipples into the carb throats and you are done.

  7. #7
    Myself's Avatar
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    I use Tygon line available at most auto parts stores. Right before I put the tubing in place I put one end into the oil jug and suck on the line until it's full of oil. Then I put it back in place. This way the oil lines will already be full when you fire the engine back up.

  8. #8

    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    I use Tygon line available at most auto parts stores. Right before I put the tubing in place I put one end into the oil jug and suck on the line until it's full of oil. Then I put it back in place. This way the oil lines will already be full when you fire the engine back up.
    Thanks for the help! i changed the oil bled it and everything, i changed out the zip ties with the metal clamps that you tighten with a screw driver hopefully it will hold better and not rip the or tear the line

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