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  1. #1

    1999 polaris slth 700 drive shaft question

    I just rebuilt my pump, the old one was trashed. The rear bearing was completely gone, I mean gone, only a few rusty ball bearings left that came rolling out. This obviously compleatly trashed the impeller. When I disassembled it the impeller had 1/2'' to 3/4'' of clearance between the wear ring or stator housing.

    I bought some used parts and what I cant figure out is why the stainless impeller wore down so much and the aluminum wear ring is still fine. When I put the new used impeller assembly in the old wear ring I have .010 clearance all the way around. You would think the soft aluminum would go first. I did find a bunch of fishing line wrapped around the shaft. That may have started the whole mess. Anyway a few questions, I am replacing the drive shaft end rubber stops with new.

    I also have an o ring on the drive shaft and I dont recall where it goes, cant remember if it goes into the impeller or the other end of the shaft. If it goes in the impeller end it would be one hella of a tight fit. And last question, I had a bunch of grey silicone sealer all around the housing where it mates to the hull. What do you guys use, can I just use GE clear silicone? Thanks Mike


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Depending on the impeller Polaris used two different impeller seals, one is a tapered rubber seal, the other is an o-ring.

    The thick o-ring is a snug fit into the nose of the impeller. There is a groove on the drive shaft that the o-ring sits in then it slides into the impeller nose. Waterproof grease is a good thing to apply to the drive splines and the o-ring

    The black painted aluminum wear ring has a stainless steel liner inside.

    Check your impeller stub shaft for damage. If the shaft is bent at the threaded end then it must be replaced.

    While you have it apart I suggest you rebuild the through-hull bearing. You can use good quality generic seals (or genuine Polaris) and check the internal bushings for excess slop on the drive shaft. Bushings can also be replaced if worn. There should be a smooth no-wobble fit for the bushings on the drive shaft and the drive shaft surface must not be worn or badly pitted.

  3. #3
    Thanks K4, The replacement parts were all one assembly, including the housing ,impeller and stub shaft. I did not take them apart as they seemed to be in perfect condition, I did put some silicone sealer anound the pointed plastic cone assembly and the 3 screws just to be safe as I at first thought that salt water may have penitrated the old cap. But I did not even think about the foward bearing area. Good call. Also have any of you guys used antiseize on the 4 long bolts holding the pump together? I dont know why an engineer would think it is a good idea to use stainless bolts into aluminum casting? I used a torch to heat up the old bolts and casting and still broke 2 of the bolts off. I would like to be able to remove the 4 long bolts in the future if needed.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikel1 View Post
    Thanks K4, The replacement parts were all one assembly, including the housing ,impeller and stub shaft. I did not take them apart as they seemed to be in perfect condition,

    ... have any of you guys used antiseize on the 4 long bolts holding the pump together? ... I used a torch to heat up the old bolts and casting and still broke 2 of the bolts off. I would like to be able to remove the 4 long bolts in the future if needed.
    Is the replacement impeller the same part number as the original?

    The best way to keep the long bolts from seizing is to remove the jet pump at least yearly and inspect. Sometimes I use anti seize, sometimes Loctite. My own jet pumps come off often enough that the bolts are generally not a problem in terms of seizing or breaking.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by mikel1 View Post
    Thanks K4, The replacement parts were all one assembly, including the housing ,impeller and stub shaft. I did not take them apart as they seemed to be in perfect condition,

    ... have any of you guys used antiseize on the 4 long bolts holding the pump together? ... I used a torch to heat up the old bolts and casting and still broke 2 of the bolts off. I would like to be able to remove the 4 long bolts in the future if needed.
    Is the replacement impeller the same part number as the original?

    The best way to keep the long bolts from seizing is to remove the jet pump at least yearly and inspect. Sometimes I use anti seize, sometimes Loctite. My own jet pumps come off often enough that the bolts are generally not a problem in terms of seizing or breaking.
    yes the replacement was the same part# I had better replace the drive shaft O-ring as I see it has some cracks in it. I have not seen just the O-ring for sale. I have a box of O-rings but the one I took off is much thicker, so it maybe a non standard O-ring. Great idea about taking it off every year, I think my ski was all original and never taken apart before, it only has a few hundred hours. My daughter is the only one who drives it a few times a year, I also introduced it to salt water 5 years ago.

  6. #6
    well the shaft O-ring is solved, I got a new one today included in the drive shaft rubber bumper kit.

  7. #7
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    I always use anti seize on the pump bolts.

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