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  1. #1

    winterize and then work or work and then winterize?

    Picked up 2 skis this simmer. One had emm rebuilt and stater replaced professionally for 1.5k. Seems OK but not 100% sure if it is truly done. Second had fuel pressure issues when originally inspected and now bugging down. Did the fuel pressure check as described here and looks like regulator has fallen out. Living in Minnesota I am faced with a choice: work fast now, fix the issue quickly and water test it and then winterize OR winterize first, take my time, replace gray Tempo lines while I'm at it and hope everything works well when I put in the water next year. Ski starts fine. Runs OK out of the water but pressure checking makes me think the regulator needs to be fixed. Suggestions?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Reinforce the fuel pressure regulator on both machines. The stock mounting is simply unreliable and can fail at any moment.

    Winterizing a Ficht engine takes maybe ten minutes. Un winterizing takes 30 seconds, just start it up dry and run it to burn off the initial smoke from the fogging oil.

    You can 'winterize' it any time it will be sitting for more than a few days or several weeks. No problem to re-winterize the engine again and again if you need to run it in between.

    My advice is to do as much work as you can before it gets to cold. Then water test. Along the way you may find other things that also need doing, that you might not have discovered until next summer if you had not gotten into it now.

    Gray Tempo fuel hoses should be changed, not because they cause huge problems on Ficht engines, just because they are now old and getting stiff and semi-brittle. This can be done over the winter.

    Ficht stators are usually not rebuilt, just replaced.

  3. #3
    OK. Will do so shortly. Was thinking of getting to some hose while working regulator. BTW, what is the best way to remove the factory hose clamps? I'll be back for more I'm sure. Thanks.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergv View Post
    ... What is the best way to remove the factory hose clamps? ...
    Cut the ears off the clamps with sharp diagonal cutter pliers, or use a thin tool to lift the overlapping end of the curved clamp off the little retaining 'pins'

    Be careful to not twist or abuse the plastic nipples the hose is clamped onto while removing the ear clamps.

    For the fuel injectors it is easiest to remove the injector bolts and then lift the bracket off the top. This releases the hose fittings and you can then wiggle them out of the injectors. Have a rag handy to catch the gasoline dribbles.

    And crack open the gas cap first to release air pressure from the fuel tank.

  5. #5
    Can you confirm my thinking on the hose sizes? I believe they are 1/4 inch and I need to get ethanol safe ones. Was thinking an auto store will do. Same for clamps - was thinking of using Oetiker stepless but not sure of the diameter.

  6. #6
    And which material should the clamps be?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergv View Post
    And which material should the clamps be?
    Oetiker stepless ear clamps for this application would be stainless steel.

    Clamp size depends on the outside diameter of the hose you buy. Each size of ear clamp has a specified range of hose sizes it will work with. Pick an Oetiker hose clamp size that will just nicely slide over the hose when the hose is stretched onto the nipple. So a touch larger than the nominal OD of the hose itself.

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