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  1. #1

    1997 Polaris SLT 700 - CDI #4010803 and low power problem

    I checked compression and get 120 on one cylinder and 130 on the other.
    I bought this used and the guy could never get it running right. It has an upgraded CDI #4010803 with orange cap plug wires and new coil.
    The carbs are clean, impeller looks great, new plugs....just doesn't seem to have good power. Will only do about 7-10 mph on the lake.

    The CDI has a grey wire unhooked too. There is no grey wire spot on the board. This model doesn't have rpm limiter.

    I've read a lot of posts on the search, but can't find where anybody says how they fixed their issue of getting better power.

    Gray, Grey -> RPM limiter signal used on some models. Gray wire tells CDI to limit RPM. Exact RPM level during limiting mode varies with model and year, typically 3500 to 4500 RPM.
    Note: On some models the Tan wire directly feeds the CDI gray wire. On other models the gray wire signal goes through one of the LR modules.
    Note: Not to be confused with the gray Hall Effect wire that connects CDI directly to Stator wire bundle. There are a bunch of colored wires that connect the CDI directly to the magneto stator. The actual connections or function each color is used for depends on the version of the ignition system.

    Some posts talk about the flywheel timing being off too.

    I don't know what to do. Please help me. Thanks in advance. If I get it working, I will post the how to.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Start by checking flywheel index. Move front piston to TDC. Remove the inspection cap on the flywheel housing. Verify 0 degree mark on flywheel is visible. If not, flywheel may have sheared woodruff key and spun out of index.

    Ignition timing can be checked using a timing light. Engine must be running at the specified RPM to confirm specified timing advance. Specs for that engine should be findable via my signature links.

    Confirm both cylinders are actually firing. Ground (not just unplug) the rear spark plug wire. Verify engine will start and run on just the front cylinder. May need some choke and throttle to get it going. It will run rough, of course.

    Shut engine down. Reconnect rear spark plug and ground front spark plug wire. Start engine. Should run about the same as before.

    Gray 'RPM limiter' wire from CDI should be tape wrapped and set aside if not being used.

  3. #3
    Checked TDC and it is on 0.

    I'm not good at the timing thing, but I hooked up my Actron and clipped it on #1 piston closest to fuel tank and at idle it showed 0 timing when my light was set to 0. The specs say 18 at 3K RPM, but I don't know where 3K is so I just start giving it gas slowly till I think I'm around half max rpm. With it set at 0 on the timing light, I gave it gas and it seemed like it stayed at 0 going up in RPMS. I moved the timing to 18, and the timing mark went negative (although their are no mark lines showing negative) instead of positive on the crank. Even when it was set to 10 on the timing light it seemed like it was around 0 or slightly negative on the crank. Does this mean I'm not at the right timing?

    Both cylinders are firing now, and I checked by gator clipping to ground each one. Each one fires and sounds the same now. PREVIOUSLY before I started tearing into stuff, I did not ground and I just hooked the wire from one plug at a time and when the #1 plug was hooked up and the #2 was not, it would never start up....also when I had both hooked up and I just unhook the #2 plug wire, it would die making me think I had issues with getting spark to #1, but with the spark plug hooked up I could see it sparking on the #1. I tore into the CDI box to make sure previous owner hooked up everything good, and I resituated the lines in the box, and now everything is firing.

    I taped the grey wire up.


    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Start by checking flywheel index. Move front piston to TDC. Remove the inspection cap on the flywheel housing. Verify 0 degree mark on flywheel is visible. If not, flywheel may have sheared woodruff key and spun out of index.

    Ignition timing can be checked using a timing light. Engine must be running at the specified RPM to confirm specified timing advance. Specs for that engine should be findable via my signature links.

    Confirm both cylinders are actually firing. Ground (not just unplug) the rear spark plug wire. Verify engine will start and run on just the front cylinder. May need some choke and throttle to get it going. It will run rough, of course.

    Shut engine down. Reconnect rear spark plug and ground front spark plug wire. Start engine. Should run about the same as before.

    Gray 'RPM limiter' wire from CDI should be tape wrapped and set aside if not being used.

  4. #4
    I took it out on the lake, and I had full power and speed, but it was sporadic..... I would be at full throttle, and running great and then it would sound like it would start missing and then losing power and slowing down and then it would get back up to full speed and then do it again. The more I rode it, the worse it got to the point where I was back to about 7 mph speed max speed. But today is the first day I've been able to get max speed out of running it ....so I did get a grin for about 15 seconds.

    I felt each cylinder for temps and I could leave my fingers on each with no problems. I pulled a plug wire while running and when I'd pull #2 plug wire the engine would just die. If I pulled the #1 plug wire, it didn't seem like it made that much difference while idling in the water, but you could hear it was firing when I reconnected to the spark plug. I was getting shocked too, the top of plug boot has some small cuts in the insulation top....but the wire itself is intact. I ohm checked the plug wires, and they were good...even wiggling them around never gave a different reading.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougyD19 View Post
    ... I pulled a plug wire while running and when I'd pull #2 plug wire the engine would just die. If I pulled the #1 plug wire, it didn't seem like it made that much difference while idling in the water, but you could hear it was firing when I reconnected to the spark plug. I was getting shocked too, the top of plug boot has some small cuts in the insulation top....but the wire itself is intact. I ohm checked the plug wires, and they were good...even wiggling them around never gave a different reading.
    Maybe you have a bad spark plug. Replace both with genuine NGK spark plugs of the correct part number.

    If you can, replace the plug wires too. Or change coil and wires together if you have a spare ignition coil of the correct type.

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