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  1. #1
    Toobold's Avatar
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    2014 FX SHO feels like it spins the prop (2.3hrs)

    Hey guys, well finally got to put some time on my new FX SHO today. Question, when I pin it out of the whole, it feels like it spins the prop. Now I just mades sure when I got home, and the prop is in perfect shape. Is this normal for the SHO? I just sold a RXT-X 260 and it did not feel like this. Just curious if its just me or what. Now I have had one to cavitate many times due to something wedged in pump, but this just feels different. It takes off, but just feels like it doesn't catch and shoot me out of the whole right away. Any inputs would be appreciated.


  2. #2
    Ski Hacks MG's Avatar
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    Riva intake and pump shoe kit.

  3. #3
    Toobold's Avatar
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    Is this normal for it to feel like its spinning coming out of the whole?
    Quote Originally Posted by CCW View Post
    Riva intake and pump shoe kit.

  4. #4
    zone5's Avatar
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    They will occasionally do this stock if your weight is not forward or you just pull it straight to WOT from a standstill. I would usually get the slightest bit of movement before nailing it, and it pulled well. If you don't want to change grate, I found sealing the front two bolt holes and the front edge of the grate with silicon (mask and get it nice and smooth) made a real difference...

  5. #5
    big john's Avatar
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    the faster it spins outta the hole, the sooner its up on boost and getting maximun charge, as lonk as its not banging the limiter more than a couple/few times you will be ok

  6. #6
    WP3223's Avatar
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    Not sure if the 14' SHO comes with an OEM top loader grate. Think it's only an SVHO thing. If not - then seriously go with an R&D grate and ppk (shoe kit). To help eliminate the cavitation & potentially getting bucked!!

  7. #7
    Ski Hacks MG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toobold View Post
    Is this normal for it to feel like its spinning coming out of the whole?
    Quote Originally Posted by CCW View Post
    Riva intake and pump shoe kit.
    All skis react differently.

  8. #8

    2014 FX SHO feels like it spins the prop (2.3hrs)

    Quote Originally Posted by zone5 View Post
    They will occasionally do this stock if your weight is not forward or you just pull it straight to WOT from a standstill. I would usually get the slightest bit of movement before nailing it, and it pulled well. If you don't want to change grate, I found sealing the front two bolt holes and the front edge of the grate with silicon (mask and get it nice and smooth) made a real difference...
    U did just the grate and not the transom side? When sealing the 2 bolt holes, you mean put sealant over the head of the bolt?

    What did you use?

  9. #9
    zone5's Avatar
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    Yep, my concern was only the initial ventilation/cavitation from standstill, and I didn't want to have the issue of cleaning out six bolt holes if I wanted to take the grate off. I was not chasing overall drag reduction and/or extra speed.

    My rational was that at initial holeshot from standstill there is no speed driven intake charge velocity to the water flow, just "suction" from the pump. Much of the water that has to be thrown at the top of the tunnel follows a more curved path from the very front of the grate, and that the bolt holes in particular would "trip" the laminar flow (if it is...) and prevent it following that path to the top half of the pump. I'm guessing that once you get moving the pressure increase in the tunnel overcomes a lot of that. This is of course in the absence of a top loader grate, though I have just done the mod to the SVHO as well, hoping that it will ensure the cleanest flow possible hitting the forward wing.

    I also sealed the front edge of the grate to prevent too much of a "lip" which might have the same effect, carrying it around the corner to the point where the tunnel opens up. I just lowered the front of the trailer, lay under and masked, used a hobby knife to accurately cut bolt holes and hull/grate gap, filled with high end silicon (smooth over bolt holes, the heads are just flush, and don't create any obstructions that weren't there in the gap) and peeled.... About 20 mins work... It lasted a year of hard use on the SHO with not even the little smears peeling, let alone the filled gaps.

    Before someone cries "R&D grate", I thought of this while lying under there attempting to fit that very thing... Ended up not using it and going back to OEM with this mod, 'cos bolt holes didn't line up, nor did bottom align with the plate, and build quality was only fair. Pls don't flame me on that issue here, go to the other thread where it's been done to death. In any case you'd be wasting your time, I will never be convinced to put one on my ski, my engineering background says that whatever good they do hydrodynamically, in their current form (reduced scantlings and sand cast alloy) they are sailing too close to the wind structurally (over time - fatigue) for my liking, especially on a ski that doesn't really have a buck issue anyway...

    End result on the SHO was a noticeable improvement in cavitation (actually more just lack of water/ventilation) from a standstill. Not perfect, but enough to keep me satisfied. I'll comment on the SVHO shortly, we are still clawing our way out of winter here! Brrr...

    chrs, jc

    ps I used a clear silicon, over here it's Selleys's Kitchen and Bathroom. Don't be misled by the name, ever since it totally fixed the leaky, heavily stressed centreboard bolt on my Trailer Sailer I've used it widely (white and clear) in marine, caravan and roofing situations with nothing but outstanding results.
    Last edited by zone5; 09-16-2014 at 07:22 AM. Reason: PostScript...

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  11. #10
    zone5's Avatar
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    This is what it looks like...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    As I said, difference modest but noticeable...

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