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  1. #1

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    2000 slh no spark

    Ok just bought a 2000 slh with no spark. It has 130 lbs compression on both cylinders. The previous owner says he was riding it and hit a wave then in died and never had spark again. Ive searched high and low but cant find clear instructions for testing stator and cdi. It does have 11.2 volts while cranking. mfd is not working or is the tilt trim. Where do i need to go from here. I have a mechanic back ground with cars but these jet ski motors are a new world for me.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Have you seen my signature links?

    There is a link in there to the testing details for the red domestic engine stator and ignition coils.

    Have you opened the electrical box yet? If not, disconnect battery first then open the box.

    There is a fuse inside for the MFD display and another for the bilge pump.

    Trim should work when you hold the Bilge button down, and should work when you get the engine running.

    Electrical box inside should be clean and dry. Zero moisture, no corrosion.

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    forgot to add. I downloaded a 99 manual and it says to test black wire from stator but i dont have a black wire from stator. and also Im not sure what motor i have. Its red two cylinder.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by polaris on fire View Post
    ... I downloaded a 99 manual and it says to test black wire from stator but i dont have a black wire from stator.

    ... I'm not sure what motor I have. Its red two cylinder.
    The 2000 models have some changes, in particular related to the ignition, CDI and stator.

    You have a 700cc 'red domestic two cylinder engine'.

    It should have the Gen III ignition system, which is the most current version. The cable bundle from the stator should include a black wire. That black wire provides the ground link between everything in the electrical box and the actual engine case.

    Do spend some time looking through my signature links. Start here.

  5. #5

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    ok K been reading your info. Man thanks a bunch for all the support and great info. I did find the black wire it was hidden. Mine also has the single coil. Ok so I have the gen III which i think is good. I am going outside to discount stator and test.

  6. #6

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    Ok unplugged cdi. Got blk to ground .08 ohms. Blk to grey 5.5 mega. Blk to purple 5.62. When all hooked up I have 7.7 volts on brown while cranking. Just put in new coil no help. Unplugged black yellow no change. What now? Also checked plug wires.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ... There is a link in there to the testing details for the red domestic engine stator and ignition coils.

    Have you opened the electrical box yet? If not, disconnect battery first then open the box.

    There is a fuse inside for the MFD display and another for the bilge pump.

    Trim should work when you hold the Bilge button down, and should work when you get the engine running.

    Electrical box inside should be clean and dry. Zero moisture, no corrosion.
    MFD fuse good?

    Does bilge pump work when Bilge button is pressed? If yes, hold down Blige button and try starting engine. Do you now have spark?

    You apparently have '8 volts' coming from the CDI, now check the Hall effect sensors using the 9 volt battery method. Testing info in the same place as the stator coil ohm checks.

    What you are doing is testing everything around the CDI. If everything tests good but you still do not have spark then the CDI itself becomes the prime suspect.

  8. #8

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    Yes bilge works. Fuse good on mfd but the screen is broke. I think it's been that way for a while. Did 9 volt to brown. Grey ground open circut rotate then have 107 omhs on trigger. Will this rule out stator and trigger now

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by polaris on fire View Post
    Yes bilge works. Fuse good on mfd but the screen is broke. I think it's been that way for a while.

    Did 9 volt to brown. Grey ground open circut rotate then have 107 omhs on trigger. Will this rule out stator and trigger now
    Unplug MFD connector behind display. A dead MFD can sometimes mess with the ignition.

    You tested both Hall Effect sensors, correct?
    And both showed the expected swing from very high ohms to low ohms at the trigger positions?

    And stator coil ohms are within expected ranges, correct?

    Confirm you have solid battery voltage right at the CDI when the engine is cranking.
    CDI wires Black and Red/Purple need to have more than 10.6 volts when the engine is cranking.

  10. #10

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    yes tested the red and green trigger wire had 107 ohms on both 5.5 mega ohms when open.

    battery was 11 while cranking. Put charger on it for more volts didnt change

    unpluggeg the conector to mfd black plug. left other two plugged in.

    stator check

    blk to grey 5.5 mega ohms high

    blk to purple 5.62

    blk to ground .08

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