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  1. #1

    Engine Warning 2006 FX/HO cruiser

    Took 2 recently purchased fx/hO cruisers out this afternoon on some test runs. One of them has signs of slatwater neglect in that there is some measure of surface corrosion on the oil reservoir and pretty much every hose clamp is rusted. They will all be replaced. It ran well for about 3 miles with varied throttle. Nice and smooth and smooth idle at about 1400 rpms. At WOT it said about 10, 200 rpms on the gauge and the ski was pissing out of both vent holes but then after warming her up for 15 minutes or so I did a high speed run for about a mile and the alarm sounded and the "engine" symbol came on. I shut it down and checked the oil level. There was still oil in the sump, but it hardly touched the tip of the stick when screwed all the way in (about 1/8th to 1/4" on the tip). Idled to shore and grabbed 1/2 quart of oil which made the level split the lines between empty and full...so I don't think it was an oil alarm. No codes displayed. Ran it up again and same thing. Took off the airbox and removed the filter and rode with the seat off (89 degrees outside). If I rode at 3500 rpms or less it didnt throw the alarm. 5500 or more (basically anything on plane) would pop the alarm after a few Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	342354thousand feet. Plugs are NOT new.

    The one main thing I did notice is that the battery level was consistently showing 11.9 down to 11.7 the entire ride. Is it possible that the "engine" light would come on just for a low battery? I would think that it would say Batt, or Volt or pretty much anything else. GPS on slick glass water gave 55 (is this close to top speed on a stock 2006 FX/HO cruiser? Compression tested near perfect when I returned with the warm motor. 235, 240, 238, 240 (Snapon tools gauge). The battery was a bit weak to test compression but these are the numbers it gave with all plugs out and throttle pinned wide open.

    The other fxho gave 56mph (10, 200 rpms or so), cavitated, vibrated at idle and had poor hole shot (dings in the prop very visible so I know that is what that is about)...but ran like a champ. Compression is 240ish perfect across on that one and it gave me 13.some volts on the gauges the entire run (new battery). I need a new hood and left mirror on that 06 if anyone has one?

    Thoughts on the Engine warning? Happened at least 5 times before I found the 3500 zone.


  2. #2
    My voltage gauge always shows over 14 when running. Maybe try running the new battery in the ski that was having a problem just to see.

  3. #3
    Yep Joey, u nailed it. All it was was the damned battery. Why in the hell doesnt it just say VOLT lol!

  4. #4
    They do have a low voltage alarm. I know this because the stator went bad on my 06 and I had to replace that. I got mine with ~50hrs and put 25hrs on it, stator went bad.

    Check your plugs for the regulator/rectifier. If it was used in salt water, sometimes they get corrosion on the pins and that will do something similar.

    There is a way to get the code, when the alarm is going off. I forget what it is though, a bottom combo on the dash will display a code you can match up to the service manual.

    If you have enough juice to turn the engine over in the battery, you should never throw the alarm unless the battery is faulty and not taking a charge.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by macGruber View Post
    Yep Joey, u nailed it. All it was was the damned battery. Why in the hell doesnt it just say VOLT lol!
    When your running now does the volt meter read over 14 volts? If not it might be the stator not charging the battery Like ZacUSNYR was saying.

  6. #6
    that is sort of what I was expecting to see when I put a new battery on because the seller told me it was a good battery. However, it is showing over 14 volts now...into the 15 range. that seems a little high to me but I guess it's okay. I ran it hard at wide open throttle for over 5 minutes and it did not trigger a code whereas it was triggering after 1 minute before. Appears very much to just have been a low battery as it was indicating on the gauge cluster with the 11.8 volts before. we can call this one case closed.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by macGruber View Post
    that is sort of what I was expecting to see when I put a new battery on because the seller told me it was a good battery. However, it is showing over 14 volts now...into the 15 range. that seems a little high to me but I guess it's okay. I ran it hard at wide open throttle for over 5 minutes and it did not trigger a code whereas it was triggering after 1 minute before. Appears very much to just have been a low battery as it was indicating on the gauge cluster with the 11.8 volts before. we can call this one case closed.
    That's great, I'll give my self an internet cookie.

  8. #8
    You need 12.5 to run the fuel pump and ignition properly, you should be between 13.7 and 14.7...if it hits 15v you need to replace your rectifier or you'll start cooking your system.

    Makesure voltage spikes aren't happening either, it shouldnt rise or fall more then .5 volt every time it registers on you gauge at idle. Idle is in the 13v range after 2-4 k it should be cranking in the 14 range...

  9. #9
    Okay thanks! I'll check it out again in a few weeks when I get up to them again. Sure seemed high soooo. I know my fzs is in that 13 to 14 range. I hate, love, hate learning a new ski!

  10. #10
    It can show 14 at idle too after a 30 -40 seconds of running. I think most of these voltage rules are pretty standard across the board tho, after all, its just a detuned motorcycle engine. So ideally no less then 12.5 and no more the 14.9 or 15.

    But you want at least 12.5 starting voltage on your display. If you bump the ski over first, wait two second till the dash shows real numbers and not a bunch of 88888 and then push the start button again, itll show your volts while you crank...
    bad batt terminals, burnt up wire, bad terminal on the starter, bad terminal on te solenoid or bad ground on the block all cause low voltage issues. And unless you are 100% sure you fixed the issue, be sure to keep looking and stay aware. Seems like youve got this issue fixed, but this is mostly just for future reference.

    You could Have had a bad terminal over a 9 month period and it be the reason the batt has gone bad. So be sure to pay attention to the volts while riding over the next few weeks.

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